Here’s the thing about cars. The vast majority of them have four wheels. This is the correct number of wheels. If you take a wheel off, the car generally scrapes on the ground and/or crashes, and you’ll have a bad time. Due to some rather weird circumstances, my Audi nearly ended up with three wheels and a great deal of damage. I’m very glad I avoided that ugly scenario.
The car I speak of is my dream car, a gorgeous 2000 Audi TT in the proper roadster body style. It’s been a year since I first fell in love with the little turbo AWD scrapper. In that time, I’ve roadtripped it to the big city, nearly wrecked it on a dirt road, and left it sitting for three months while I sorted out paperwork with the authorities in a new state. Unfortunately, upon returning the Audi to the road, it started displaying all kinds of ugly symptoms. Vibrations, warning lights, and horrible noises that promised doom.


Naturally, as a car enthusiast, I decided there was no better way to diagnose the issue than to keep driving it. I knew that the problems would eventually reveal themselves if I just had enough time out on the road. I just didn’t expect to find out that one of the front wheels was hanging by a thread.

Misdirection
When last we spoke, I had just gotten the Audi back on the road after a few months, and I was tangling with an annoying problem. Every now and then, the Audi was triggering the anti-lock braking system (ABS) in conditions where it made absolutely no sense. I’d be slowly coming to a stop at a traffic light, and suddenly the brake pedal would rumble beneath my foot. This was characteristic of the ABS pump modulating braking pressure to try and prevent a lockup—except it made no sense, because I was braking with full traction at less than 5 mph.
I did the usual research, with owners forums indicating the likely culprit was a bad wheel speed sensor. These sensors determine speed with the aid of a toothed ring fitted to the wheel itself. As the toothed ring rotates past the sensor, the presence or absence of a tooth changes the magnetic field around the sensor. The sensor picks up these changes and by reading their frequency, it’s possible to determine how fast the toothed ring (and thus the wheel) is spinning.

This explanation made a lot of sense to me. The Audi was 25 years old, and owners have been complaining about these wheel sensors going bad for almost 20 years at this point. Forums indicate it’s a common failure point on these cars, so it seemed to make sense that it had happened to my car, too.
Further evidence soon supported the theory. Traction control started randomly cutting in when I was accelerating, even quite gently. It was an intermittent problem, but a worrying one. I could turn off the traction control and drive relatively normally, but it was clear to me that this problem wasn’t just going away on its own.

I knew in my heart of hearts that I should buy a VAG-COM diagnostic cable to figure out which wheel sensor was bad, but life got in the way. Hospital visits and housing woes kept me too busy to figure out what was going on. I contemplated just dumping the car with a mechanic to get the problem sorted. Even though I had no time and nowhere to work on the car myself, I just couldn’t do it. I find it really hard to find workshops that I trust, and I hate not doing the work when I can fix a problem myself.
I ended up doing the stupid thing. I kept driving the car on short little trips, hoping the answer to my problems would naturally reveal itself. Maybe it would become clear the problem was metallic debris in the wheel hub, or a broken wire to the sensor, and I could fix the problem on my own. As you might expect, the problem didn’t magically go away. Instead, the car got worse.

I was driving across town on a sunny day, with the roof down and my partner riding shotgun. It was a nice ride, right up until an ear-splitting “SKREEEEEE” erupted from the car. It was a metal-on-metal sound that really pierced the skull, like nails on a blackboard on methamphetamine. It lasted just a second… and I wanted to pretend this problem wasn’t a new one. Only, it kept happening again every few miles, setting my teeth on edge every time, and we could never quite pin down where it was coming from. I started questioning everything. Was it brakes? Something stuck in the suspension? Was the cam belt tensioner letting go? Fear wracked my brain.
At this point, I steeled my resolve. I absolutely couldn’t be one of those people who take their car to the mechanic because of “a noise.” I had to know what was going on. My Audi became my go-to car. Any small trip, I took it out, trying to identify the noise. My partner helped, too, listening in from the passenger seat. It was hard to locate the intermittent sound, but she was pretty sure, she told me—the scraping noise was coming from the rear left of the car.

Living in the inner city, I still had nowhere to work on the vehicle. However, I happened across some luck—I’d found a multi-story carpark that was mostly empty on the upper floors. I figured if I whipped in all quiet like, I could jack the car up, whip off the rear wheel, and see if I could find the problem. The standard scissor jack did the trick, and I had the wheel off in short order.
Only… I couldn’t find anything wrong. The brake shields were fine, everything was where it should be… even the handbrake cable seemed to be in fine adjustment. Nor did I find anything that might explain a dodgy wheel sensor, though there was only a one-in-four chance that the problem was coming from this corner of the car.


Dejected, I decided to take car out for a longer drive. I went up a few road works with temporary barriers, and things became much clearer. With the sound reflected right back to my ears by the hard concrete walls, I could hear a continual dull grinding noise coming from the front left. Interspersed with nice loud SKREEEEETS here and there.
I hurried back to my secret short-term workspace in the multi-story car park. I jacked up the front left, and … oh no. Oh dear. The second the front wheel got off the ground, it was obvious it was barely attached. I rattled it back and forth, quite easily. It had to be a wheel bearing!
That’s not right…
— Lewin S. Day (@rainbowdefault.bsky.social) May 15, 2025 at 3:44 PM
Rocking the wheel like that is the usual way to diagnose play in a worn-out wheel bearing. Only, I was confused. In the miles I’d racked up, I hadn’t heard continual graunching or any whining that would normally indicate a bad wheel bearing. And yet this one had almost half an inch of play! It didn’t add up. I’ve changed bad wheel bearings before; a worn one should have been way noisier and more obvious before it got this bad.
I pulled the wheel off, and I got down to the truth: It was the axle nut. You know, the one fastener responsible for keeping the wheel on the car. It was barely finger tight, hanging on by a thread.
Ah. That is not supposed to happen.
Glad I didn’t lose a wheel!
— Lewin S. Day (@rainbowdefault.bsky.social) May 15, 2025 at 3:46 PM
I was aghast. If that nut had come off just a little earlier, I might have lost a wheel at 40 mph and gone spearing off into opposing traffic or something. What really astounded me was that the Audi design didn’t appear to have any secondary retention mechanism. A lot of cars have a split pin setup, or a notch in the axle nut so you can hammer a dent in to stop it winding itself out. There was nothing of the sort here; just a six-sided nut that had worked itself almost totally loose. I shot a quick video to old mate Laurence, who summed it up pretty succinctly—”Wtf!”
All along, this was the problem. I didn’t have a bad wheel sensor or any ABS issues. I had a wheel hub that was slowly coming off the car. The misalignment of the hub caused the intermittent wheel sensor issues, presumably because the toothed ring wasn’t where it was supposed to be relative to the sensor. It was also the cause of the terrible noise; occasionally, the hub would misalign and moving metal parts would hit static metal parts and make that horrible squeal.

The temporary fix was easy. I snugged the nut back up, and would you believe it, suddenly all the play in the bearing was gone. I dropped the car back down onto all four wheels, and did my best to hit the proper torque spec with a breaker bar. Taking the car on a test drive, the problems were gone. No ABS kicking in. No traction control interventions. And crucially, no horrible squealing noise. Despite the fact I’d been driving around on an improperly assembled hub, there wasn’t even any obvious noise from the bearing. It was rewarding to figure out the problem on my own.
Realistically, though, this never should have happened. The front axle nut shouldn’t just be coming undone by itself if it’s been torqued properly. My guess is that whoever last replaced the front wheel bearing didn’t do a very job. Peeking through the front rotor, it looks like the hubs have been swapped out at some point. I can only assume that when it was done, the nut wasn’t torqued properly.

A further smoking gun? The fact that the axle was fastened with a six-sided nut. Everything I’ve seen online is that early Audi TTs use a 12-point nut, not a six-sided fastener. Indeed, the rear hubs are fitted with the proper 12-sided hardware. Did the previous owner or mechanic lose the proper hardware and just sub in some random fastener?! If that’s the case, it’s not much of a leap to assume they didn’t follow the proper multi-step torquing procedure to ensure it doesn’t fall off, either.
Recurring Pain
The temporary fix worked for about 1,000 km (600 miles) or so before I got the same symptoms once again, with the ABS occasionally cutting in under braking. Maybe I didn’t do a good enough job torquing the axle nut back up. Maybe the wheel bearing is toast, or there’s something else damaged in there that’s causing the nut to untorque itself. Either way, I want no part of any of this.
I’m going to get the front wheel bearings replaced out of an abundance of caution. After all that, I just don’t trust them. Plus, I have to drive many hundreds of kilometers for a secret project with Laurence soon, and I don’t want a wheel coming off on the highway. That would spoil all my plans, and my partner indicated she’d be quite upset if that were to occur.

I’m leaving the work up to a shop, because – would you believe it? – the multistory carpark doesn’t have a bearing press on site. I’ll probably get the timing belt and a few other ancillaries handled, too. I’m a lot more comfortable handing the car over now that I know what is (and isn’t) wrong with it.
It’s funny to think how wrong I was from my initial assumptions. Anyone would have said, “Oh yeah, that’ll be a bad wheel sensor. There’s your problem.” And they’d have been wrong! It was an altogether weirder issue that had nothing to do with the wheel sensors at all! Never assume, and all that.
Ultimately, I learned it pays to do the work. I’m glad I put in the effort to diagnose this one properly, and I’m especially glad I figured it out before the wheel came off. I’ll take the W.
Image credits: All images Lewin Day except where stated
Many years ago, I got the tires rotated and balanced on my ’88 SAAB 9000 and a few miles down the road heard a weird sound from the front left. I pulled over and checked the lug nuts with the conveniently available wrench and found they were frighteningly loose and once tightened up all was good. That episode didn’t even chew up the threads.
Glad it didn’t get worse for you.
My son got spacers to improve the suspension clearance of his oversize wheel/tire installation. Turned out the lugs supplied to attach the spacers were just a tad too long and a wheel vibrated loose on his way to work. Not too much damage as his truck was lifted and it came off as he was pulling away from a stop (wheel, rotor), but scared the hell out of him to see his wheel rolling ahead of him through an intersection.
It really is amazing how a vehicle can stay together even when you realize the slightest bump can take you out.I remember back in the late 80’s the mechanic next door to the body shop I worked at called me over to show me something.He was going to do an oil change on an early 70’s Nova and when he raised the lift the whole subframe,suspension,motor,transmission,all just dropped to the floor.He lowered it back into place and called the owner with the good news.
Yikes.
“Have I worked on this car before?” – Derek, VGG
I started reading this got bored scrolled down to say probably someone just wanted to kill you. Now I know you think no way everyone loves me. Maybe not ever sometime people are hateful. I don’t imagine you have anyone that dated you because engineer but if you conned a female to dating you may be someone wants to kill you. Think about it
Maybe you should have a think before pressing the “post comment” button.
I thought about it and now I will not read your comments anymore.
I had a 2009 MINI Cooper Clubman S and had put new tires on a few thousand miles before and decided to rotate them, but instead of just going back to front and vice versa, I crossed the fronts. A few hundred miles later I had a funny sound coming from the front of the car…..the wheel bolts (not nuts) were loose. I knew I had torqued them properly but I got out the torque wrench and did them up again, a few hundred miles later – same result. WTF is going on here? No vibrations, no shaking, no nothing till it worked loose enough.
The answer was directional tire treads (it’s marked right on the outside of the tire which way to put them on) and the left front was turning backwards. So was the right front but for some reason it didn’t come loose. I swapped them back and never had the issue again!
Worry over wheels coming loose due to direction of turning is why old mopars had reverse thread studs on one side. My little brother discovered that the hard way when he snapped one off while trying to change a tire.
That was my first thought, too. Mopars had reverse threads on the left side for this reason. I don’t know whether it made a real, practical difference with nuts loosening, but it sure did make tire changes interesting!
Heavy vehicles such as trucks and buses often used stud-piloted Budd wheels, where the wheel centered on the studs by means of ball seated nuts riding in chamfered bolt holes. The end of left side studs are marked “L”(left hand thread) and the right side marked “R”(right hand thread).
In the 100,000 miles I have owned my 2010 GMC Sierra I have had to do both front wheel bearings twice. The original bearings failed at 117k and 121k. Both failures popped the ABS fault code and once they did, I had about ~20 miles to get home before they got red hot. Whatever new bearings the dealer put on the second time would fail without warning and just fall apart. One side the hub was literally held on via a deep groove worn in the brake pad and was moving roughly 1/2” side to side within the caliper bracket. I put an ” upgraded” aftermarket set of bearings on at 199k. Hopefully they last a little longer.
As soon as you started running down the possible problems, the one you didn’t mention (wheel bearing) immediately came to mind, and as soon as you mentioning the noise I knew that’s what it would be.
You definitely need to change that wheel bearing, they are only designed to run when torqued correctly with the axle nut, and the box usually warns you to not even spin the bearing by hand until you do so.
+1 on changing it out. A coworker ruined a new bearing in short time on his Daewoo when he didn’t get the nut fully torqued.
First off, congrats on catching that problem before it completely failed. That could have been bad. I’m glad you’re alright.
However…
Lewin is now grousing about a previous owner potentially not following torque specs on a critical safety component? This seems like a karmic response to that article saying we should all use anti-seize on our lug nuts.
This is a great illustration of why that article is dangerous. Lubricated lug nut + over-stressed lug is a recipe for failure. Just like an under-torqued axle nut, it creates a problem down the road. And people can die when wheel-related stuff goes wrong.
Torquing procedures matter.
Almost as bad as the rear wheels on a car with under 20K sheering off on the freeway. Apparently the jagoffs in the shop that did the multipoint inspection when traded in did not torque the wheel lugs and even though I had brought it in and even took them for a ride to hear the noise when turning left, they still said they could not recreate the noise. when we lost 3 of 5 lugs on one side I checked both side on the side of the roan and the passenger side lugs were also loose. They finally admitted they had not even taken the wheels off when brough in for warranty. I guess I needed to get my own torque wrench out and do minimally check the wheels for them.
Remember the Great Recession? I was so down on funds I couldn’t afford basic upkeep on my car (let alone a roof over my head), a necessity to get to the job I was still lucky to have. One of the front wheel bearings was so bad, it’s a miracle the wheel didn’t fly off. I finally was in a financial position to replace it a few months after it should have been replaced. Yeah, it was that bad, counting pennies.
What’s wild is after retorquing by hand, it was pretty silent. I’ve dealt with noisier bearings on my old MX-5 (which were an easy change). In any case, these are getting replaced post-haste.
‘Problem with second-hand Audi turns out to be much more life-threateningly expensive than was thought. Film at eleven’ 😉
Wait, a bearing press? I don’t think you’ll need one of those, this car’s wheel bearing should be inside a bolt-on hub unit. You’ll probably need a triple-square to get the long bolts that go through the knuckle and thread into the bearing hub.
DO NOT USE A HEX IN PLACE OF A TRIPLE-SQUARE. YOU’LL REGRET IT.
Unless down-under Golf platforms are different?
To expand on that, the angles for the corners on a hex and triple square fasteners are different (120 vs 90)
Yeah well dumb me went “12 divided by 2 is 6, so this works” and then spent a whole lot of time with a drill in my hands.
I learned the same way, but luckily realized it wasn’t working before I made it so bad I couldn’t hammer a triple square in there and make it work.
But that’s why 12pt and triple square are two different things.
At least on my Golf, the bolts were from the inside, so the ends were exposed through the hub and facing outwards. I spent several days drilling out those four bolts.
On the other side, even with the proper triple-square, the heads stripped. Fortunately, they only did so after a couple of turns. I was able to pry (pound from behind) the hub off the knuckle just enough to get a sawsall blade in there.
Sounds like you needed to put something like PB Blaster on the exposed bolt ends and maybe some wire brushing to remove rust. Also, normally if you drill the heads off, you can then remove the item being held and then the bolts will typically unscrew with little effort (in your case of the hub you just throw out the remaining stubs with the old hub.)
Since that ordeal, I’ve discovered the wonders of Aero Kroil, and I’ll die on that hill. Beats anything else hands-down.
I almost listed Kroil, too; but didn’t feel like going through the entire list of possible chemicals to use.
I watched a video on the job and the guy was using multiple oddball tools to get it all done. Nothing like the simple bolt-on, bolt-off wheel bearing job I did on my old MX-5.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-F4Rvr_U83Q
Having had a left front wheel come off at 45mph, and I can say it is terrifying. Specifically I had just bought the car and the guy I bought it from had put aftermarket wheels on it and installed roughly 10mm too short wheel bolts so it was a ticking timebomb and I had no idea because I had been so unfamiliar with wheel bolts instead of studs and lugs. It bent the shit out of my hood and wiped out the arch trim on the mini but after some research I got it back on the road safely.
my word. that’s so fast, too.
I’ve got some long-distance highway driving to do, so I’m eager to get this sorted properly. Particularly because I think the risk of the axle nut undoing itself again without me noticing is higher when I’m driving a long way without regular braking.
It’s amazing how well problems can hide. I was driving my 2003 GTI in Montreal and hit a pot hole real hard. I rolled on a short distance to my destination without any sense of something wrong. Alignment didn’t seem off, no vibration etc. When I got there, I inspected the wheel (a winter steelie). No dent, no leak, no apparent warp. Good news. I drove back to Toronto (600+ km) and used the car regularly for a few weeks keeping an eye on the tire pressure. When I went to swap out my winter tires for summer, I did my usual behind the wheel inspection. I discovered my spring was broken, and not just a little, a chunk was missing, totally detached. Driving the car betrayed none of this information. Not at highway speeds, urban or low speed manoeuvring. The only thing holding it together was the strut!
Coincidentally, left front. Also the car shared it’s platform with the TT. Stay safe!
We’ve all been there. I once drove back from Houston to Dallas in my 98 XJ and was getting the “angry sparrows” noise from a bearing intermittently. When I got home and looked at it I almost threw up when I saw how much play there was in the unit bearing. I was really lucky the axle nut held it all together- once I took the nut off the bearing separated.
Looking at the workshop manual it looks like they either had a 6 point or 12 point from the factory, and they have different torque specs. Either way it’s a one time use nut. I’m assuming it’s one of those locknuts where the threads are slightly pinched at the top (I think it’s called a Stover nut?). Likely that someone was in there and re-used it, which is a big problem for shadetree types working on newer cars without a proper manual.
Page 210 of 5.6 (running gear)
Thanks for the link!
Had a look, but these documents are for the 8J generation. Mine’s a first-gen from 2000 – 8N.
My bad! I’m sure the manual is out there somewhere. If not, there’s always erWin 🙂
The left front, you say? In my case the wheel itself broke around the head of each lug bolt:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54646077258_1907b52652_c.jpg
I drove a 1995 Ranger in college. It had lame factory steel wheels, so when some cool alloy wheels came up for free, I jumped on them.
I put the wheels on and while I was driving back to school, one of the wheels developed a terrible vibration. Any speed, just vibrated, and it was getting worse the more I drove. I stopped and looked, and everything seemed okay. It eventually got so bad that I had to pull over and jack that corner of the truck up. As soon as the tire was off the ground, the wheel just fell off. The lug holes were completely chewed up and about 1-1/2″ diameter.
It was then I learned there were different kinds of lug nuts. The other 3 wheels had a combination of the different styles, but this wheel had all the same kind. Oopsie!
Well, that’s one of the least expected things to go wrong on the list of 117 things that normally go wrong on a first-gen TT 🙂
On my VAGs, I believe the spec on that thing is like 120 lb-ft or something. Thankfully mine is a standard(ish) 17mm hex, same as the tranny drain plug — but since you have a chopped Beetle, it’s a little different because of course it is. I remember stepping on it with a breaker bar after doing all of my 8 front control arms. That was a long day.
Still, as far as TTs go, first gen is best gen.
117 items on the list? You use the abridged version? I prefer the original, 4242 item list in which this lands at 4237.
Are first-gen TTs that bad?
I hate to make blanket statements, but just imagine all the bad stuff you’ve heard about any Jetta or Golf or Beetle from the millenium era. Now wrap it in a tighter package that’s more “show” than “go” (without chiptuning, at least!) on top of Audi’s arbitrarily higher labor rates. It can be a handful. I still like them, though!
I once looked at a Audi TT RS, assuming of course the 2.5 was not turbo charged as I would have liked very much to have AWD and the more reliable NA 5 cylinder Vag motor. but that thing had DSG and a turbo. both made for a somewhat fun ride, but my redflag meter with regard to turbos on German cars was too much for me to consider it. I hear the DSG is also not reliable so I guess dodged that bullet as well.
My son and I picked up a 2000 TT quattro coupe last fall and love it.
But the ABS came on about a month ago and stays on. And we’re hearing chirping from one of the passenger side wheels. It’s not very loud and it stops chirping when you hit the brakes. Thought wheel bearing but there’s no slop at all. Then thought debris in the brakes so I blew those out with air and brake cleaner. It got quieter but it’s still there. Will check those axle nuts next time I’m in the garage.
I really need to get a tool where I can read ABS codes and at least see which wheel it is. Friends have Ross Tech scan tools but they are for newer VW/Audis using CAN protocol. This Audi is so old it’s using KWP or ISO-9141.
Different platform, but I had a Bosch ABS module fail with no other symptoms — thankfully there are rebuilders out there who can sell you one cheaply (under $200). I have a real-deal VAG Com cable that I almost never use, I will keep you posted if you’re interested. It’s the mid-90s through early 2000s version, 99% sure it’ll work for you.
Hmm, I’m just starting to research this but do you know if your cable would work with Ross-Tech VCDS-lite?
https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/
I’m pretty sure it will — the cable is dependent on model hardware, and AFAIK VCDS software works with all of the cables (as long as you tell it which one you’re using)
It’s been 10 years since I’ve even hooked it up to log data, but it’s a really cool tool. And almost required to keep older models running.
I’m really interested in trying out your cable. If you’re willing to loan it to me (I’ll cover the cost of shipping/hassle/etc…), please shoot me an email: massatuckyacres@gmail.com
Thanks!
Emailed! You can delete that contact from your post if you want to (privacy, etc). I just confirmed it’s the KII-USB version shown under “legacy hardware” — sold 2008-16