There are few modifications that can ruin a vehicle as thoroughly as a lift kit and big tires. Acceleration gets worse. Braking gets worse. Handling gets worse. Fuel economy gets worse. Ride quality gets worse. Wind noise gets worse. Durability gets worse. And yet, we — like so many Americans — went ahead and did it anyway, raising our 2014 Nissan Murano CrossCabriolet’s suspension by 1.5-inches, and then installing 1.3-inch larger diameter all-terrain tires on very, very cool wheels that I found on Facebook Marketplace. Let’s look at how we simultaneously ruined our convertible Nissan Crossover SUV and also made it so, so much better.
A few months ago, we bought one of the weirdest cars of all time — a 2014 Nissan Murano CrossCabriolet — and had our brand partner, XPEL, cover half of it with paint protection film. The goal of our partnership is to test how well XPEL PPF protects our vehicle as we subject it to a barrage of brutal tests meant to simulate, among other things, a police hood-slide and the harsh environment that is the parking lot/parking deck. Our next test is going to involve off-roading, and before you chuckle at the idea, you should know that the Crosscab is far, far underrated in terms of its theoretical off-road potential.
First off, the most important element of any good off-road vehicle is geometry, and on that front the CrossCab crushes it. Look at these numbers:
- Angle of approach (degrees) 28.8
- Angle of departure (degrees) 25.5
- Breakover angle 15.6
OK, that breakover angle is rough, but the approach angle of almost 29 degrees and a departure angle of 25.5? Those are great!
To put this into context, you may have seen our review of the new off-road focused Honda Passport Trailsport — a review titled “The 2026 Honda Passport Trailsport Is An Excellent Off-Road Starting Point To Keep Up With Your Subaru Pals.” Here’s a look at that vehicle:

The Passport Trailsport’s angles are:
- Angle of approach (degrees) 23
- Angle of departure (degrees) 23.1
- Breakover angle 16.7
So our CrossCab crushes the approach angle, beats the departure angle, and loses out to the breakover angle by just 1.1 degrees. Overall, the CrossCab’s geometry is actually better, and geometry is huge when it comes to off-road capability.
Of course, I have some concerns about the CrossCabriolet’s gearing. Per Nissan, the CVT offers gearing ranging between 2.371 and 0.439. The final drive ratio is 5.173, and the transfer case ratio is 0.4048, yielding a crawl ratio of just… 5:1. Which doesn’t sound quite right to me; that seems way too low, with the Honda Passport Trailsport’s crawl ratio sitting at around 22 and a proper off-roader’s (one equipped with a two-speed transfer case with low range) often hitting above 50:1. Two hundred and sixty-five horsepower and 248 lb-ft of torque aren’t bad, but with tall gearing and a 4,438 curb weight, the Crosscab’s powertrain/drivetrain definitely doesn’t sound ideal for off-roading, even if the world is filled with CVT-equipped ATVs and side-by-sides.
But the geometry is good, and beyond that, there’s this “AWD Lock” switch just to the left of the steering column:

This should ensure that torque goes to both the front and rear axles at all times. So there should be traction, there should be ground clearance/proper geometry… but there may not be enough torque at the wheels to propel the vehicle without frying that CVT.
But hey, two out of three ain’t bad, so I decided to jack up those approach/departure/breakover angles even more and increase our grip by lifting the Murano CrossCabriolet and installing some 31.5-inch Vredestein Pinza AT tires (see below — Vredestein sent us these for free; thank you!). That’s an increase in tire size of about 1.3-inches, which — along with the 1.2-inches of lift — yields about 2-inches of overall vehicle lift.

The only issue was that the CrossCabriolet comes with 20-inch wheels, which are not going to work off-road. After searching everywhere online for some good aftermarket wheels, I decided to cheap out and buy a used wheels from Facebook Marketplace. But what wheels would fit a Nissan Murano CrossCabriolet?
I chatted with Autopian writer Thomas Hundal, and he told me that about a vehicle with the same 5×114.3 lug pattern as the Nissan, and with a center bore big enough for the Nissan: The SN95 Mustang. And, after a bit of searching, I managed to find the ultimate SN95 wheels: Tri Bars.


They cost me $250 for the set, and they’d been absolutely beaten on, with three coming with tires that had metal cords poking out (never grab a tire with cords poking out; they will pierce straight through your skin). It’s no surprise, and these had been drifting wheels for the seller’s Mazda RX-7.

Getting the Plasti-Dip off the wheels was an absolute nightmare, and required lots of Goo-Gone, some scrubbing with a brush, my pressure washer, and lots of patience.

After many hours of squirting with Goo-Gone and spraying with my pressure washer, the wheels looked great:

I hit them with some self-etching primer:

And then I sprayed them all with some gold wheel-paint:

From there, I bought some new lug nuts, tire pressure sensors, and hub-centric rings to get the tri-bar wheels’ center bore the right size for the CrossCab:



Before installing the Vredestein tires onto those Tri-Bars and then onto our CrossCab, I decided we’d give our Nissan a small lift kit. Did we need that for a 1.3-inch larger diameter tire that’s wider by only about 0.4 inches? Probably not. But again, I want to give the Nissan Murano CrossCabriolet as good of a chance off-road as possible, even though I fear the vehicle will end up being severely gearing-limited.
So I found a cheap 1.2-inch lift from Ukraine:

I brought this extremely basic lift‚ which just spaces the springs and dampers an extra 1.2-inches from the vehicle’s body — to our friends at Galpin Auto Sports, and they installed it:

Here you can see the subtly lifted vehicle on its factory wheels:

I then took our gold wheels, our awesome all-terrain tires, my new lug nuts and TPMS sensors, and those little center bore plastic adapters to a tiny tire shop near Galpin. If you’re wondering how four wheels and four tires fit into the CrossCab, the answer is: They sorta didn’t.




I was concerned the tires might not fit under the front strut spring-perches, but they did, and the CrossCab looks fantastic:



Does part of me think I could have gone up a tiny bit more in tire size? Yes. Does part of me also think we’re tempting fate putting additional strain on the Jatco CVT? Absolutely.
Anyway, we’ve driven the vehicle from LA to Monterey, and it glides. Honestly, the bigger tires on the Mustang SN95 wheels haven’t really affected the ride much at all; it’s good, and though the vehicle can’t really go much faster than about 70 up even a slight grade, acceleration doesn’t feel significantly worse than it did before. I’m sure if we actually ran measurements we’d find that, indeed, the ride is technically worse, the handling is worse, the fuel economy is worse, the NVH is worse, the durability has been decreased (I think the spacers might have torn one of our control arm bushings), and on and on.
A lift and big tires really does make a car worse in almost any way. And yet, just look at those photos above. Some humongous compromises are worth it.
Now to see what this thing can do off-road…






Maybe the CrossCab dies because of this. But before it goes out, it’s living its best life.
No strain is too great for the legendary Jatco Xtronic CVT to handle, not even whatever you all are going to do to this thing next.
Came here looking for you, was not disappointed
I cannot imagine how much joy you are experiencing reading this series.
“The CrossCab’s transmission died when we tried to off-road it. Jason, Matt and I have 48 hours to swap in the taxi’s before they have to catch their flights home!”
Those stock 20 inch wheels on the Muranos are absurdly heavy, it wouldn’t surprise me if the unsprung weight actually decreased. Off road, keep in mind the torque converter on cvts locks up very low, 10-15 mph.
That’s amazing – it really brings out the CrossCabriolet’s inner Youabian Puma.
Xpel already has me sold. It looks great.
But I can’t get over the lack of center caps on the wheels. Don’t you know anyone with a 3D printer?!
A offroad vehicle is better with the lugs showing!
After the infamous Ford jacketed lug nuts on my Focus finally pissed me off for the last time (when I had to buy an emergency extraction socket), I replaced them with the plain steel ones from the base model. I immediately loved the rally car look, wondered why I hadn’t done it sooner.
Fun tip: if it’s the right diameter, you can cut out a beverage can top to cover the centerbore hole. Monster Energy cans (yuck) come in colors so you can match or contrast. Or RedBull if it’s a smaller hole. Then just add some silicone adhesive and you’re set. Leave those lug nuts exposed! I agree, looks way cooler.
Looks great…needs rally lights
Roll bar to mount the lights would be perfect.
Damon it almost looks good. Like I would drive it without massive embarrassment good. You all may be onto something here. Can I get one in gulf blue with orange wheels ?
Oddly enough, I think we used those same wheels for our Dodge Stealth Gambler rig about 7 or so years ago. We also went with 2″ spring spacers to give it a little extra clearance. And that’s what I learned to drive off road in!
You can’t ruin a car that was ruined from the factory. If anything, you somehow made it better. This gets my stamp of approval.
I’d like you to redo the cop slide experiment with Jason now that this unholy contraption is even higher.
Unserious people
Seriously intentionally silly people.
Preposterous.
Yes it is
This is silly.
As intended.
Cool beans! Wish I could do something like that, but at my age all I can really contemplate spending money on is a Urolift and Sono Bello for my spare tire.
Ruined? No no, this how they should have all looked from the factory
You did it, you actually made a Crosscab look cool.
Wonderfully awful. That’s a compliment.
I’d like to know what Galpin would charge to install the lift kit for a normal customer (not Autopian) just out of curiousity. Also, it’d be useful to know what it’d cost for all the tire/wheel mounting services at the tire place. I appreciate your screenshots of the parts/prices though.
I’m not going to do it because the cost is about two grand to do properly, but I can’t help but want a 2″ lift kit and 1″ spacers for the wheels on my 240 wagon. I think 240 wagons look kind of cool lifted, and I never drive fast enough to have the higher center of gravity matter. But again: it costs too much and the money is probably better spent on the next car.
240 wagons are awesome, and I’ve seen really cool ones lifted and also ones that looked great lowered. I’m just here wishing I had a 240 wagon. Having lifted and lowered most of the vehicles I’ve owned, I can say it’s not as daunting as it might seem and the satisfaction is worth it.
Well, I’m not that concerned about ‘ruining’ the car resale-wise… lifted 240 wagons sort of remind me of XJ Jeeps: they look like tall, off-roady station wagons. I never go off roading myself (people do take lifted 240s off roading and they seem to acquit themselves fairly well despite being only RWD) but two inches of lift would make the car easier to get in and out of (I’m over 50 and my back is well over 80) and I could stand under the open hatch without grazing my head, so my interest is also a bit practical.
If I had a capable pal living nearby w/a good back and some hand-on suspension experience, I might rationalize the $, but that pal of mine now lives 3,000 miles away, so my wagon is safe for now. 😉
Lifted 240 wagons, some are a bit over the top: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=lifted+volvo+240+wagon&t=opera&ia=images&iax=images
I’m 48 with a back injury, so I completely get it. I actually lowered my 4wd Silverado so my dogs could easily get in and out without injury. It’s now the same height as a factory Outback and the bedsides are at a realistic height. 4wd still works fine too. It should have been this way from factory.
Funny that you mention it. At its current (stock) height, my dog (with a bad foot) CAN jump into the back of the 240 wagon… I think she’d be able to make it if it were two inches higher, but of course, am not positive.
I also have a ’04 XC90 (5 cyl/FWD) and she basically can NOT manage to jump up into it w/o my help. The first gen XC90 was Volvo’s first SUV (came out in ’03 I think) and though it was the biggest Volvo at the time, by today’s standards, it’s only a little bit bigger than a Forester or Rav4.
The XC90 is now just sitting registered PNOP and we use the 240 as our daily. As mentioned, I’m not about to spend $2K to lift the 240, so it’s going to remain as-is for the most part. I didn’t buy it to have as a project, but rather just to use and enjoy daily. 🙂
I’d keep the Volvo stock height if the plan isn’t to lower it, since 60% of cars on the road are factory-lifted wagons anyway.
PS: I agree that 240 wagons are kind of great. They hold a metric ton of big/bulky/heavy stuff, yet are lighter and more nimble than they look. The turning radius on mine may actually be tighter than that of my NA Miata (at least it feels that way) …it’s super small, making a tight turn like on a switchback in the wagon is probably easier than on any other car I’ve owned. I live up in the hills, so there are a lot of very tight/blind turns to get home. To be sure, the 240 is no sports sedan (at least not in stock form) but it’s genuinely nice to drive provided that you’re not in a big rush (mine’s naturally aspirated… not the Turbo). Which I never am. 🙂
The tire place is much cheaper than any dealership. They are everywhere in the San Fernando Valley. When times were tough about 10 years ago my car had old tires that would blow out. I would go to my regular shop and buy a used tire to replace it. I ended up with four different tires on the car. The tire with installation was usually around $40. They would fix a flat tire for free, just tip the tire guy. This shop was always busy.
Replying to myself just to OCD/say that it’s nice to have real-world labor costs included on projects for obvious reasons. Without that info, it’s like watching Wheeler Dealers where the many hours of hard/skilled labor aren’t ever included in the project/restoration cost of a car. Really limits the usefulness of including the parts costs at all w/o the labor.
I’ll shut up about it now.
Lower the subframes to restore the suspension geometry.
Look at lift kits for subaru for an example.
Well, sure. If you were trying to do it right. I’m not convinced that was the goal here.
Yes, you can get a basic lift kit mostly comprised of various spacers for a fraction of the price (a few hundred at most typically) of a full kit that includes all the other bits that put all the suspension geometry back to the way it was after the lift. To do that seems to cost a couple grand, at least w/my car.
The best thing about a Murano Cabriolet is that any attempt to ruin it can only make it better.
And they certainly are trying their hardest!
What’s important is that you like it…
Nice Price all day long. Slow car fast meets road car off
the AWD system does not have a low range T-Case, the number you posted is the opposite of a the kind of ratio you might expect to see. I am not even sure if you were to put a divorced atlas in there somewhere if the CVT would work, so yeah seems like an experiment rather than any sort of calculated risk.
As I said in the piece: The crawl ratio is concerning.
Seems like the system would have some sort of compensator for the lack of low gear ratio transfer case. I suppose the axle gears being numerically high is a bit of compensation, but damn, they could at least make it lockable in 1:1.
Lifting my old XJ 3.5″ was the best and worst thing I ever did to it.
If you’re serious about taking this thing off road, your next steps are clear.
1. Remove the top entirely.
2. Full roll cage.
3. Send it.
Only #3 is the important one. (Okay #2 is kind of important).
Wait, there are steps outside of “Send It”? Is that why I broke Ski-Klasse!? 🙂