Last night, while driving my 1954 Willys to Harbor Freight to buy a foam-cannon for my pressure washer so I can prep our Pontiac Aztek for sale, I spotted a classic automotive breakdown. A vehicle was on the shoulder of the road with its front left wheel having detached from the chassis, and of course it was the 3rd-gen Toyota 4Runner — known by some as the 3Runner for obvious reasons.
I stopped to have a look, and to assure the rather frazzled owner that this isn’t a huge deal, and the’ll probably just need some new ball joints and a few brake parts, and they’ll be on their way. I can’t imagine it’ll cost more than $500, I told them.
Here you can see where the front suspension dragged on the road — there’s a little gray line on the road:
And here’s the carnage; look at how the knuckle separated from both ball joints!
This is a design flaw that has affected far too many 3Runners. Yes, it’s avoidable, and yes it can happen to other vehicles, but it happens way too often on 3rd Gen 4Runners. It pretty much never happens on Jeeps, but Jeeps have other issues.
The Jeep Cherokee XJ’s major flaw? The neutral safety switch tend to give up the ghost, as does the Crankshaft position sensor. XJs are also super under-cooled due to radiator packaging constraints, and once they overheat, there’s often a head-crack between the valves.
So for today’s Autopian Asks, I ask you: What are some examples of well-know weak-links in the auto world?
The first generation ecoboost ford f150s eat coils. The word I got from my mechanic was that ford underestimated the heat they would have to endure and so about every 40k miles you have to replace them. Its an easy enough job that I do it at home now. I thought my truck had picked up a major misfire when it first happened.
New 7.3 Godzilla’s had a lot of this failure as well.
All FWD/AWD Fords with the 3.5, 3.5 Ecoboost, and 3.7: Internal water pump.
BMW N20/N26: Timing chain, oil filter housing gaskets.
BMW B48/B58 Oil filter housing.
GM V8s with AFM: Camshafts/lifters.
Hyundai 2.0T and 2.4 GDI: Main bearing failure.
Ford 3.5 Ecoboost (F150/Transit): Timing chain/cam phasers.
Mitsubishi/Chrysler/Hyundai/Kia with the A5GF1 and related 5-speed automatics: Torque converter or valve body issues.
Ford 4.6/5.4 2-valve: Intake manifold failure, spark plug blowout.
Ford 4.6/5.4 3-valve Spark plugs seizing to the head, timing chain/cam phaser failure with extended oil change intervals.
Chrysler 3.6 Pentastar: Cylinder head cracks on driver side, camshaft issues, oil filter housing.
Chrysler 2.7: Internal water pump failure, oil sludge.
Toyota 1MZ-FE (3.0 V6 from the mid 90s to mid 00s) Oil sludge.
Dodge 5.2/5.9 gas V8: Intake manifold gaskets.
GM 4.3/5.0/5.7 Vortec engines: “Spider” fuel injection, distributor.
Toyota/Lexus trucks/SUVs with the 4.7L V8: Smog pump failure, exhaust manifold cracks.
BMWs with R1234yf refrigerant: Evaporator failure.
Hondas and GM with R1234yf: Condensor failure.
That’s all of them I can think of right now… just had lunch, may be able to remember more later.
Dodge Automatic OD trans Pre- Mercedes was pretty well known for undersized ports int he OD section causing failure from pump cavitation behind those 5.2/5.9’s
Most BMW engines of the last 25 years or so – gradually increasing oil leaks due to neoprene gaskets no longer gasketing as well due to age, particularly on the oil filter stand and VANOS hoses due to high oil pressure in those areas
3rd Generation Prius has an extremely high head gasket failure at around 180-200k miles. A JDM motor swap is the typical fix
180-200k? I’d just fix it and keep going.
That’s what we did, but I had free labor from a mechanically-inclined 14-year-old. Took him an entire summer. He basically had to take half the engine bay apart to remove the head, so taking it to a shop and paying someone to do it is really expensive.
I have a 14′ CT200h (Lexus version of the same car) with ~100000 miles thankfully haven’t had head gasket issues yet. Same thing with the brake booster problem, for now.
Well, actually, my dad plugged in a OBD2 scanner into the car a week or so back and that caused the car to have a total freakout (flickering dash lights and weird noises) and now the dashboard is lit up like a christmas tree. Upon research, I found that the set of lights on in the dashboard usually means the brake booster is going bad, but I find that hard to believe since none of those lights were on before I plugged the scanner in. The regen also seems different, and it won’t charge the hybrid battery above half way. I’m going to go to a Lexus dealer and see if they can diagnose why that would happen.
Its going to be a very tough bullet to bite if the brake booster is indeed malfunctioning since it is expensive and rather complicated to replace it seems.
Oof, that sounds tricky. I have 2 Gen3 Prii, but knock on wood I haven’t run across the brake booster problem yet. All I can say is good luck and Godspeed. Overall these cars have been good to us, but they do seem to have a couple really major design flaws
Audi V6/V8 timing chains
VW 4 cylinder timing chains
Ford 3.5 (longitudinal) Ecoboost Timing Chains
Ford 3.3/3.5/3.7 (transverse) Timing Chains and water pump
Jag/Land Rover V6/V8 Timing chains
Jag/Land Rover Ingenium 4 cylinder/6 cylinder timing chains
BMW/Mini 4 cylinder timing chains
Mercedes 4 cylinder diesel OM651 timing chains
GM 3.6 timing chains
Thank you. For every person that complains about timing belts, I always think timing chains are usually worse, because the engine slowly goes out of time as the guides fail and the chains stretch. I’d rather deal with a belt replacement at a known interval.
Timing chains are absolutely worse. I’ve had 5 vehicles with timing belts, and never had one fail between recommended change intervals. I’ve worked on cars for 22 years, and have done at least a hundred timing chains that were supposed to have lasted the life of the vehicle, especially on 4-cylinder BMW and V6 Ford engines.
That’s a LOT of replacements of a “lifetime” designed system.
Because every single person who thinks (dry) timing belts are inferior, have not worked on nearly enough modern OHC engines with timing chains, thin oils, and OCI’s that are way too long.
Techs know the difference.
I know what you mean and also think DT is wrong but with a catch. I think I’d rather have a typical Japanese brand that uses a timing chain and has a 100-150K interval than one with a timing belt with a 60-100K interval, but for most other brands timing chains scare the crap out of me.
Ok, I’ll throw my hat in, 2005-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ/LJ ECM/PCM/Computer/whatever you want to call it. The computers are known to go bad and wreak havoc when they get hot (limp mode, erratic idle, throwing codes, etc.). Doubt there are many/any OEM computers available through the dealer anymore so the fix is a 3rd party company called wranglerfix.com for new computer to the tune of about a grand. Had to do this on my 05 LJ. They claim the new computer is from a different Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge vehicle that they can flash with the programming for the 4.0. So far so good.
well and TUPY Heads cracking on the 4.0. Also the piss poor execution of the coil on plug trigger set up. who ever though a sealed, non engine lubed Distributor like device would survive very long was a failure at their job.
Rust. Not brand or model exclusive though. Also deer.
EH, Pretty much all Rams rust above the wheel arches in the bed, though Ford and Chevy are not immune here, though Ford is a bit less of a problem since the Switch to aluminum. Chevy cab corners on 2000-2008 Silverados. Basically if Amazon provides plastic cover ups for anything from multiple Chinesium dealers then of course it is a well known problem.
The cooling system on the E46 BMW is a joke. Anyone who buys one of these cars, the first thing you MUST do is go get the entire cooling system replaced. Once you do that.. the car is pretty great.
Any vehicle with Lucas electrical!!!!
Current Alfa Romeo Giulia sunroof cables breaking. It’s especially bad in the 2018 models. Read any forum from anywhere on the planet and there are huge numbers of people complaining about it. Alfa/Stellantis will cover the repair under the original warranty, but if you have an extended Alfa/Stellantis warranty like I do, they will not. The cost of repair is usually around $2k because of the way it’s designed.
My Triumph has had so many of its “well-known weak points” replaced it’s practically a Car of Theseus at this point.
It’s a classic, so you get to call them character.
It’s got so much character it makes me want to pull my hair out sometimes.
Lots of Ford stuff here, I’m seeing a trend.
Has anyone mentioned the Ford Tritons that shoot out their spark plugs?
2nd gen Chevy Volt:
-BECM failure
-EGR failure
-“Shift to Park”
I have mine display the Shift to Park intermittently and I hate it.
Mine does it occasionally too but I just literally jiggle the shifter and that’s it.
Yep. This is the way…I also don’t want to spend an entire afternoon replacing the sensor that may or may not fix it.
Haven’t gotten the ol’ STP yet, fairly certain the BECM has been done, and I know for a fact the EGR was done before my ownership. STP looks pretty simple for me to repair, but I have that sweet sweet CARB warranty, would try and get GM to do it before I spent the time and effort on it. I do occasionally prowl the web for an EGR at a reasonable price, I’d like to have one just in case. I rarely run the ICE though, and when I do it’s always on the highway.
I believe the 2nd gen escapes share that same PTU design, but it isn’t cooked by the exhaust. I still suction out as much fluid as I can every 30k or so, but it’s always looked perfect. Ah well, I’ll get a million miles out of the stupid thing or die trying.
Any BMW N63 or S68 is doomed constant failure.
Older Chrysler minivans and their 100k miles transmissions. All BMWs come to mind, but I’ll mention the valve stem seals in the 2000’s era V8s like 550i. Ford Focuses (i think it was second gen) getting vacuum leaks and idoling at about 5k RPM. Porsche Cayenne turbo v8 cylinder scoring and loud clanking.
The 1999 Intrepid I bought from my FIL for $800 had a $22,000 stack of receipts and needed a new tranny at 110,000. I got 20k out of it, my wife crashed it into a tree during an ice storm, and the lady we sold it to put another 100k on it after we sold it ????♂️
Common enough for BMW to address, but not as common as believed on the N20 engine.
Suffered that one myself. Was able to fool Carvana into buying that off me before it got ugly.
Thought for sure it was going to happen to mine, and I made it 134000 miles with no issues before I sold it. Gosh I miss that car.
Does Ford have a near monopoly on horrible auto transmissions? Manuals? amazing. Autos? even with good care and maintenance, seem to go way too early
Aged turbo white block volvos and their pernicious oil consumption after 100-150k. Oddly, all of mine consumed at the same rate once they began their thirst, about 1qt/1k miles. Bonus- new oil additive package re-invigoration every 1k miles! maybe still cheaper than a new turbo (suspect turbo seals that leak but never fail) over the remaining life of the engine, as my cats dont seem to mind the extra hydrocarbons. But now that two of mine are knocking on 300k, Major Rebuild is likely to visit the barracks soon
PCV system?
Gen 2 Ford Expedition: Blend doors, timing chain guides, blend doors;
MK6 Golf GTi: Everything: sticky plastics, headliner falling, water-pump, cooling system made of plastic, intake flaps, oil leaks;
Landrover Freelander 2: Haldex, EGR, rust;
BMW G30: Sticky plastics, peeling button labels.
Only including ones I experienced first hand:
GM 3.8L Series II plastic coolant tubes.
2010 Mazda rust
Have gotten lucky so far on a bunch of other cars I have with known problems.
Done the coolant tubes and manifold gaskets before on my $100 lesabre. Was a pretty easy job, the hardest bit was removing the FIRMLY attached rear spark plug boots.
We’ve owned 4 Subarus now with no headgasket issues.
JINXED yourself…
No worries, I grew up with an Irish grandmother so I know the appropriate anti-Murphy rituals to perform after making a statement like that.
Subaru head gaskets? My wife has an expectation of ZERO major issues in a car. On return, she’s sold her soul to owning appliance cars and maintaining them. When the head gasket went on our 2010 Forester, that car was dead to her. Well, other than we’re still driving it another 10yrs later.
Honda’s Variable Cylinder Management 2008-2012 – The broken generation of VCM that caused/causes many of the V6’s (Accord, Pilot, Odyssey etc) that it is attached to, to break down prematurely due to “the valves on the disabled cylinders being closed off while the piston continues to move up and down. This created a vacuum effect in the cylinder, allowing some oil to get sucked past the piston rings into the combustion chamber. This oil continues to collect in the combustion chamber until VCM disengages, at which point the cylinder must burn off the oil before resuming normal operation”
The VCM would cause the engine to break down long before it should have due to what it caused, and only gave back 1-2mpg fuel savings. This version of VCM disappeared due to the many problems it caused.
Also of note, many people bypass the VCM by just putting a resistor in place.
My 2013 still has this issue. I installed one of the VCM disablers a few years ago but part of the damage was already done. The bank 2 CAT (the small cat on the back of the engine) is partially plugged from buildup making the check engine light appear on and off. Not sure if it will pass emissions testing this year.
Ford 5.4L 3V oil pressure and cam phasers and timing chains, o my!
General one here. In general, Toyotas are excellent vehicles, but I’ve spotted a weak point- the exhaust system. Toyota’s are kinda weak, and they rely on tension to stay up, which is why so many Camrys and Avalons hang really low.
Well, they are grounded to the ground, after all…