How do you define a “cheap” car? Where’s your cutoff? I’m slowly increasing the prices of the cars we’re looking at this week and next, and today we’re up to around six grand. Is that still a cheap car? It’s not throwaway money, but it’s often still a cash purchase. One thing is for certain: at this price, you expect more than a beater.
Yesterday, our limit was $4,000, and we looked at two old ’80s German sedans. I try to stay as impartial as I can with these matchups, but I have my own preferences, of course. And there are times I root for a certain car to win. It doesn’t always work, but I’m happy to announce that today it did. The little Audi has triumphed over the good-looking but lackluster BMW. I’m so pleased.
I have a long history with ’80s VW/Audi products, and I still occasionally long for another one. This Audi would actually be a great choice: it’s not too expensive, it’s in great shape, and it’s a nice simple reliable drivetrain. Sure, a Quattro would be more fun, but this is probably rarer now, and a lot less abused than most Quattros I’ve seen for sale.
Cheap cars are what we do here, usually, but often I see comments like “save your money, get something a little newer and/or nicer, you’ll be better off.” Well, we’re about to test that hypothesis. How much more car can you get for a couple grand more? I chose two fun-ish compact manual sedans, the sort of car you might pick for a second vehicle if you already have a big family hauler. They’re more practical than a sports car, but they’re still at least a little bit entertaining if you take the back roads to the grocery store. Let’s check them out.
2010 Mazda 3 i Sedan – $5,900
Engine/drivetrain: 2.0-liter DOHC inline 4, five-speed manual, FWD
Location: Austin, TX
Odometer reading: 108,000 miles
Operational status: Runs and drives well
As I’m sure some of you do, I get asked for car recommendations from my non-car-people friends. Typically, I tell them “just buy a Corolla,” but if I know the person likes to drive, I change that recommendation to a Mazda 3. This successor to the 323/Protege/Familia has been around for more than twenty years now, and it’s still the best-kept secret in the small car market. Even the base model ones are more fun to drive than your average economy car. Sadly, it looks like Mazda has finally succumbed to the times and no longer sells the 3 with a manual transmission, so if you want your four-door zoom-zoom with a stick (and you do), you’ll have to settle for a used one, like this.
Mazda made its name in the 1970s with rotary engines, but more recently it has become known for twin-cam four-cylinders, like this one. And the good news is they’re a hell of a lot more reliable and durable than the rotaries were. This one displaces 2.0 liters and drives the front wheels through a good old five-speed manual. The seller says it runs and drives well and has new tires, but the ABS and traction control lights are on. The seller says both systems still work, but I don’t know how you’d know that unless you accelerated or stopped hard enough to trigger them. Best to have it checked out.
This is the only photo we get of the interior, so I can’t tell you what condition the rest of it is in. What we can see looks fine, except the cap on the shift knob is missing. Maybe you could 3D print something cool to go in there. The seller does say that the air conditioning works fine, which is important in Texas.
It’s hard to keep a black car looking good no matter where you live, but keeping it out of the blazing sun is a good start. This one is a little dull on the horizontal surfaces, but generally looks pretty good. Some quality time with a buffer would probably shine it right up.
2016 Kia Forte LX – $5,995
Engine/drivetrain: 1.8-liter DOHC inline 4, six-speed manual, FWD
Location: Dallas, TX
Odometer reading: 79,000 miles
Operational status: Runs and drives well
I have to confess that I haven’t driven a new Kia since 2002, when I test-drove a Rio and a Spectra. I wasn’t impressed with either back then, but everything I’ve read says Kia has upped its game considerably since then. In the interest of research, I should probably drive something more recent, like this Forte.
On paper, it seems to have the goods: it’s powered by a 1.8-liter version of Hyundai’s “Nu” four-cylinder engine and a six-speed manual transmission. The Nu engine is not the one with all the serious problems; that was the Theta. But the Nu has a couple of issues as well: it has a tendency to consume oil, and commonly suffers from piston slap. The seller, a dealership, doesn’t mention either of these issues; they just say it “runs great.” Hey, it’s more than you usually get out of those guys. It is only nine years old, and still under 100,000 miles, so it has a tiny bit of powertrain warranty left, if it makes you feel better. And some people have had great luck with these engines.
Looking at a 2016 model year car means we have entered the Touchscreen Era, but this one looks like it has an aftermarket head unit in it. The stock Forte screen isn’t that big, from the images I found. It’s in really nice condition inside, but as usual, especially on a car from a dealership like this, test out all the bells and whistles before you sign anything.
It looks pretty good outside, but I don’t think the rear spoiler is stock. It’s black, for one; I can’t imagine Kia wouldn’t have painted it red to match. My biggest problem with it is that it’s not a hatchback; the tiny mail-slot trunk openings on these small, swoopy sedans are basically useless, even if the trunk has plenty of space.
No used car is perfect; you’re always going to have to fix or put up with something. But the further up the economic ladder you go, the fewer issues you have to put up with. These two, for six grand, seem like reasonably safe bets. Which one strikes your fancy?
The Mazda is better if it’s not rusty, so I voted for it because it’s in Texas
I’m pretty sure this Kia will have no factory warranty. The 10/100 is only on a new car purchase to the original owner, or a certified used model. Otherwise it reverts to a 5/60 for subsequent owners.
I’m not sure I knew this. Thanks Vic. 🙂
No desire to be a KiaBoi victim, so zoom-zoom for me.
Also, living in the Austin area, I’m really curious about where the seller lives. I’m not familiar with any neighborhood with adobe-style homes like that. Beats the copy-paste homes of so many neighborhoods around here.
Three-pedal security system.
Kia because it’s a lot newer, lower miles, and still a little in warranty. The Mazda is wearing a dashboard toupée so I assume it’s not in great condition underneath.
Well this was easy 🙂
These Mazda engines are excellent, and while the manual isn’t as precise as the top-tier stuff from Honda, the overall driving experience is very good. Parts are cheap and plentiful, and if it’s been in Texas this whole time you don’t need to worry about rust. I like my ’14 hatch, but I had an ’06 sedan and miss it sometimes. The 3 is always a great pick.
When selling the KIA:
“Bruh, this engine SLAPS!”
Yeah, I voted Mazda.
This is an easy one. Mazda.
Up yours, Hyundai’s cousin.
This was closer than I would have anticipated, but I went Mazda ultimately. 2010 was a couple years before the introduction of the Skyactiv-G, but the engine in this one is fantastic as well. Several members of my wife’s family drove Mazdas of this era well over 200k and in some cases over 300k miles.
Also, Mark, you’re incorrect, Mazda still offers a 6 speed manual on 3 hatches in the Premium trim.
He gave me a little heart attack at first. Eventually I’ll probably end up buying another 3 since a manual, NA hatchback is pretty much the perfect car imo. Mazda needs to keep selling these new as long as possible since my current one has plenty of life still.
I daily a ’22 3 hatch with the 6MT and it’s a joy to drive. All the inputs are linear and predictable and the shifter action is fantastic as you’ve no doubt come to expect.
I will say probably don’t wait too long because I’m not sure of the future of the 3 in the US after this generation. I just haven’t heard one way or the other if a new generation is coming.
To be fair, it’s likely that the next one will be used just like the last two lol. But if they hold out for another few years maybe the finances will be in a place where I feel like shelling out for a brand new car. After all, if I’m not willing to buy one new I can’t really complain if they kill it off.
Yes, it’s a bit concerning, this lack of rumors about the next Mazda 3. Given how industry news percolates ahead of time, we’d surely have heard or seen something about another generation of the 3 by now.
I was under the impression that they still sold a decent number of 3s, though of course nothing like the CX-5 and 50. I sure hope they didn’t blow all their development money on crossovers… that’d be a shame.
Though: the new/current Mazda 2 is actually a Toyota Yaris from what I gather. The new/current Yaris is actually an appealing small car (I’d love one) but prior Mazda 2s actually engineered by Mazda were excellent to drive for what they were (i.e.: the Scion/Toyota iA/Yaris iA). It’s concerning that Mazda didn’t see fit to develop its own entry-level hatch and just badge-engineered a Yaris. Surely, these small cars still sell in Europe, Asia, and Australia… or has the bloodlust for mid-size crossovers now swept the entire planet?
🙁
I went to the LA Auto Show yesterday, and Mazda was one of the companies that didn’t show up this year, so I was unable to ask a rep. Also absent from this year’s show were Mercedes, BMW, Audi, Jaguar (of course), and Lexus. Porsche was there, but had a much smaller display than most years (maybe a dozen cars vs. the usual 30-35 in that side room).
Mazda’s page for the 2026 models only lists automatics:
https://www.mazdausa.com/vehicles/mazda3-sedan/compare-vehicle-specs-and-trims
EDIT: I see where you went wrong there – that page is specifically for the sedan which does not offer a manual.
Try the configurator. Not only is the manual available in the Premium trim, it’s standard. Or take a look at their press release for the 2026 3:
https://news.mazdausa.com/2025-08-19-2026-Mazda3-Pricing-and-Packaging
If I’m buying it for myself – the Mazda. If I’m buying it for family or others, probably the Kia. The fact that it still has some factory warranty left is pretty wild to me, but relatively new and relatively low miles means itll likely last a bit. If I’m buying a fun commuter car for myself, I’d get a Miata for this money anyways.
Personally, AA and Carplay are pretty important for daily drivers, the Kia already has a unit or can be easily replaced with one (or so it looks). I have no idea, aside from a stick-on type, where that would go on the Mazda.
A double-DIN unit replaces the radio just fine, because I did that in 2018 for my 2011. Get the right dash kit and it looks almost stock.
I’d only take the H/K if it came with a replacement engine. From Toyota.
These are so similar in basic, broad-strokes view that you have to consider the details. I went Mazda mainly on reputation and the fact that Kia was rising but not there yet. Also Da Boyz. Also it’s not a Soul.
That said, I could be swayed the other way, the Kia has at least been dealer detailed. Which means nothing mechanically, but it does still have a warranty. The Mazda is sun-baked, but it’s not peeling it’s clearcoat yet, so maybe it can be saved.
I used to think these Mazdas were amazing choices, but after my family has had a lot of trouble with our mechanically similar Mazda5, and a friend has had a lot of trouble with his Mazda3 of this generation, I’m starting to question that. However, as I recall a lot of the issues they had were with the automatic transmissions, so hopefully this one would be better, and I still trust it over a Kia!
The Mazda5 auto has some weaknesses, unfortunately. If you regularly change the fluid it does a lot better, but it’s fairly well known for being a bit jerky and potentially failing early. I wish I had the manual, but I stay on top of everything for mine and it’s been solid despite towing a ~1000 lb trailer fairly frequently.
The manuals are much better, and the engine is excellent.
Hate to say it but the Kia is the drive-away choice. These 3s are good overlooked cars but I’d be looking to knock the price down, especially on a base four-door. It’s overpriced for what it is; that should really be a 4K car in its state. 2.5L or Skyactiv hatches of that era are a much better buy. However,
This is false, you can still get the MZ3 Hatch with a stick; it’s just limited to the premium and above trims on the naturally aspirated hatches.
Six thousand bucks, huh?
That era Mazda was notorious for rust; thankfully this is a Texas car so that nonsense should be minimal. You could bring it to the salt belt and keep it undercoated. 2010 Mazda3s (only 2010) did have flaky clutches, so make sure that’s been taken care of.
The Kia I don’t know enough about. Was this the era of Hyundai/Kia surprise engine failures? That would worry me.
Six thousand bucks seems to imply one is pretty sensitive to major drivetrain failure. It’s a fair chunk of money to gamble, you’d want a car that lasts a bit. Mazda, because clutch failure generally is detectable. Surprise engine failure is harder to detect.
Those Mazda 3s are impervious to everything except rust. There’s at least 6 rusty Mazda 3s in my work parking lot with 250-400k km on them as I type this.
They all drive them until some major component detaches from rust, then they drive it onto a flatbed and go buy the next cheapest Mazda 3 they find on marketplace.
2012+ Kia 4cyls have more engine failures than I’ve had hot meals. And I’m pushing 40. Hell, our household has a 2013 Optima currently on it’s second engine.
The Mazda is a Texas car, though, so rust should be minimal.
As mentioned here, the Forte (and Elantra) used the Nu engine which is more than ok. OTOH, Optima, Sonata, Santa Fe and Sorento used the Theta II engine which was notorious for catastrophic failure.
The 1.6 was (and still is) popping regularly
No screens! Gimme the Mazda.
Since I’m using AutopianBucks and not my money I’ll pick the Mazda. I miss that Mazda 3 body style.
I’d prefer the hatch or the previous gen sedan (I had an ’06 sedan) but I would pick this all day over the Kia.
Was leaning Mazda then saw the adds and conditions and went Kia. It’s a lot more car for only $95 more dollars. It will have modern connectivity for phones. I’m curious if the Bluetooth on the Mazda allows for music or if it’s just phone calls. That era of cars had interesting connectivity stuff.
There are also the warning lights on the dash of the Mazda to contend with. Are they small issues? Maybe but if they were why wouldn’t the sell fix them before selling…
The Kia has the small issue of being known for engine failure. That alone disqualifies it for me.
There are plenty of these with over 200k miles on them. YMMV but I’ll roll the dice.
I play by the junkyard. In ALL of the u-pull yards I frequent, you will not find a 2010+ Kia or Hyundai with the engine still in it. Last time I checked, they’re not a popular swap for other platforms, so they’re all being pulled in hopes of replacing an out-of-warranty unit.
ANY other brand that isn’t an LS or common swap motor, you’ll find plenty of options to choose from.
I’m waiting for a 4cyl 2016+ Sorento to hit the yard with a failed engine so I can steal the tailgate off it (mine is a V6. Oddly, 6 or more cylinders tend to not be a problem for kia/hyundai)
The V6 is solid. And so are the 1.8 Nu engines found on Elantra and Forte. The notoriously bad engine was called Theta II and it’s a 2.4
That’s odd, normally they don’t extend warranties on engines without issues
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10186830-0001.pdf
Leering clown face and more miles vs. screen and fewer miles. Black vs. red – black cars in Florida suuuuuck, but I really dislike red.
Nope, I can’t even with the leering clown face, so KIA it is. It does have an extra cog in the box too.
The Mazda will keep oil inside the engine.
The Mazda is an internal combustion engine. Kia/Hyundai spent the 2010s making external combustion engines.
Mazda 3. Only because a Fusion 2.5 engine is practically a bolt-in swap and is available for practically nothing from salvage yards. Done 2 Mazda 5 Fusion engine swaps over the years.
The traction control and ABS lights both being on are usual failure mode. Both systems rely on the wheel speed sensors to determine if one wheel is locked up (ABS) or moving at a different rate than the others due to loss of traction (Traction Control). I’d bet its got a bad wheel speed sensor – I’d be scanning it before purchase and also looking for a better price.
Edit: The Mazda would also be more appealing to me as not having to set foot in the dealership and have to deal with the usual suspects.
I think the Forte is the very first SBSD contender with a factory warranty. The decadence!
1 car has a screen, 1 car does not. I vote for not.
Normally I’d say Mazda –
But the Kia is newer, lower mileage and in an actual color – and I bet the aftermarket rear appendage could be removed with a heat gun.
I have to agree with this. At least they’re both manuals so either could be fun.
(Now if that had been a Mazda3 hatch…)
J.H.Christ, is that the state of the used-car market right now? I paid pretty much the same price years ago for a Mazda5 with half the miles and half the years. It was a great car, but based on age and miles, it’s the Kia for me.
That Mazda is way over priced IMO but yes this is the state of the used car market.
Yep, and for a few years now. It’s been upside down since Covid, and sometimes I am shocked that the Autopian crew is even able to find sub-2k cars that even run or are in presentable condition. It’s softened in the last year, but still pretty rough.