As you may be aware by now, I have the honor of spending the next six months assembling a World War II Jeep from the ground up using as many parts purchased from the website of our partner, eBay, as possible. I had shown my friends at eBay that one could buy an entire Jeep body on their site, and after I nonchalantly proposed building a whole Jeep using parts from their site, the eBay team jumped at the idea and told me I had to do it and that they’d support the build.
As you saw in my unboxing article, I managed to purchase the entire body from C&C Jeeps out of Indiana. Finding that stateside wasn’t too surprising, since Willys MB bodies had a tendency to rot out and require replacement. To be sure, frames rust, too, but finding nice original frames is much easier than finding nice, original bodies. Nobody — and I mean nobody — could find me a Willys MB frame when I began my search in July, so I was a little concerned.
But then, at the recommendation of one of my Jeep friends, I called Pennsylvania-based D & L Bensinger — a small husband-wife company (Daryl and Lida) that specializes in early Jeep parts. “You know… I might have one in that back shed,” Daryl thought aloud over the phone after I’d reached out about a frame. “Lemme give you a call back; we’re prepping some Jeeps for the fourth of July,” I recall him telling me. “If anything, we maybe have one. Maybe.”
At this point, I felt a little nervous, because the entire premise of this build is that I’m putting together a new, 2025 World War II Jeep. For it to feel new, the Jeep wouldn’t necessarily need to literally have every component be new (this would also not be possible since all components aren’t being remanufactured), but I knew I couldn’t get away with using an old frame. If I used an old frame, this would feel more like a regular restoration and not the world’s only 2025 WWII Jeep build I had hoped for.
My phone rang, and my heart began beating like a drum. “Yup,” Daryl told me. “We’ve got one MB frame back there.”
I immediately let him know I wanted to buy it. It would cost me $2 grand plus shipping, for a total of $2,760. I was happy with that, and Daryl’s wife/business partner Lida was kind enough to make an eBay listing for the frame, since — per our partnership — we want to buy as many parts as we can from eBay.
Yes, we’re bending the rules a bit here having someone make a listing specifically for us versus us finding a Willys MB frame on eBay already, but eBay’s breadth of car parts is undeniable (seriously, here are multiple frame sections and a frame crossmember for sale). What’s more, lots of sellers who are already familiar with eBay don’t necessarily list all their super specialized parts, but are happy to chuck them on there (which is valuable for a buyer, as eBay offers protections a random website doesn’t); our seller’s eagerness to create a listing speaks volumes to how easy and seamless it is.
Shipping took less than two weeks, with the red-primered, rather diminutive frame ending up at a large port facility nearby.
I arrived with my 1989 Chevy K1500 pickup, and though the truck’s 6.5-foot bed was 3.5 feet too short to fit the frame, an open tailgate, a few orange taxi cab stickers on the front bumper crossmember, and some strategic ratchet-strapping had me on my way:
Unloading the 200-ish pound frame onto my driveway (where I’ll be doing this entire build) took two people not due to the frame’s weight (for a car frame, it’s remarkably light at only about 200 pounds), but just its awkward size; Autopian contributor Carlos Ferreira to the rescue!:
And so, by the skin of my teeth I was able to find a Willys MB frame, and it’s currently sitting on my driveway ready to be dressed up and eventually mated up with its sibling, a brand new WW2 Jeep body from the same manufacturing plant in the Philippines.
I’m glad I’ve managed to snag the two biggest parts — the body and frame — without having to go too far over what I had initially budgeted, plus I’ve got most of the brake parts and so much more showing up in boxes pretty much daily. Now there are two major things I need to obtain before I’m feeling even remotely comfortable: A new engine and a “reference” Jeep to help me see what goes where (and so I can pilfer its axles and small parts). More to come on the hunt for those soon.
[Ed note: David mentioned the idea of building a brand new WWII Jeep to the team at eBay, and they loved the idea so much they said, “How can we help?” Their financial support and David’s Jeep-obsession are the fuel behind this crazy build. – MH]
Kind of apropos that Hagerty’s the Generous Collection written up by Mercedes has a 1944 Willys MB Jeep Project up for auction now!
… wait, wouldn’t “all components aren’t being remanufactured” mean “no components are being manufactured”?
I feel like “not all components are being remanufactured” was probably what you were going for….
Neighbors in the not-to-distant future: “It all started with an old Jeep frame on the driveway…. and now, we have this!”
Bring in the Greep Jeep demand letter
If you really wanted to use all brand new parts without being a stickler for historical accuracy, you could always use a Shelby Cobra chassis as they have the same wheelbase :p It’ll be much worse off road, sure, but a whole lot less slow!
David, idk what’s taking so long. Our Canadian neighbors make it look easy!
https://youtu.be/tnLZT7qovwU?si=ThDoVlxMXGB_S7iH
This is the first I’m reading of this. Great idea for a story, David! I look forward to following it. I just hope that Silverado has a wiggle stick.
You need to be playing The Doors “LA Woman” while building this. “Mr. MoJeep Rising”
Fun fact: Mr Mojo Risin‘ is an anagram of Jim Morrison.
It’s calling out for a Dauntless V6, David.
You know it.
I know it.
It knows it.
It needs the Buick V6 and a Saturn overdrive.
“Saturn Overdrive” sounds like a name Pink Floyd rejected in favor of Interstellar Overdrive…
The Saturn Overdrive exists in an eclipsed orbit of the Orion Transfer Case.
Yes on the Saturn/Warn overdrive. It’s a great gear-splitter. Works in high/low, 2wd/4wd, forward/reverse… dad has a ’43 GPW/MB/CJ2A Jeep salad with a Warn O/D and it’s gold. Sure it’s not WWII-specific, but makes the Jeep far more drivable wherever it is.
Every time Jeep is mentioned, I can’t help but think, Watch Out For Frame Rust!
Maybe an opportunity for another partner hookup. I’ve been out of the loop for more than a decade, and don’t know who has the current best rust prevention products, but I’m sure a lot of your readership and this frame while it is separate, could benefit.
I’d love to see him take it some place that does like hot-dip galvanization. Or have a zinc-al spray metallization coating applied, something a bit over-the-top (especially for California). I’ve not heard great things about that red primer but that could just be anecdotal.
That is my “old school” thought as well, something that completely coats, inside and out, and will last into Delmar’s old age. I’ve seen way too many jeeps succumb to irreparable rot.
It’s come a long way, but there are a few really nice stainless steel paints on the market. The main brand I recall from my work decades-back in the pharma world where corrosive cleaners are the norm would be Steel-It. It also looked fantastic. It was unbelievably durable against cleaning/chemical corrosion for a paint. Though, I have no idea how well it’d fare against gravel/stone chips.
Just looked at their website due to intrigue and they advertise automotive parts as a suitable application, including plenty of photos of its use in motorsports, so yeah it seems like a great paint for car parts. If I were interested in painting a whole car silver, I’d probably like to have it painted with Steel-It for the corrosion resistance benefits. Plus it’d let you cheat your way to that cool bare-steel look without the corrosion risk 😉
Hot dipped galvanization would make a wicked-looking frame for this project.
Just be careful the dipping place doesn’t drill too many extra holes to make the dip flow inside better.
Pacific Galvanizing in Oakland, CA has the equipment to do the job; so does AZZ in Goodyear, AZ. I suspect that LA Galvanizing in Los Angeles could do it also, but… no road trip? FIE!!!
Powder coating?
My brother was involved with a company that offered/promoted that. From my experience, I don’t trust it. Requires meticulous prep. to get a good bond, and more often than not, by the time it eventually chips, it reveals rust was developing underneath for a while.
I had a steel battery holder powder coated on my namesake vehicle, and I concur with your opinion. I thought, mistakenly it turns out, that powder coating was the ultimate steel protection material and process. Nope, at least not for this application. Should have just sprayed it with bedliner.
I should note the batteries are LiFePo, so the coating failure is not due to outgassing acid.
My understanding of it, preparation of objects to be coated must remove any and all possible contaminates or a void will occur, creating a weak spot. Also, some suppliers are not using the highest grade of source material, with the proper additives customized to the application and in your application, although a battery tray shouldn’t see much heat cycling, I wouldn’t use it in an area that does.
If it stays in SoCal, he could probably leave it in primer and never have to worry.
True, if it’s only used On Road, but expect this will be used as intended. Seeing plenty of sand, mud, moisture trapping muck that gets into places you wouldn’t think possible. Maybe even some sea water!
Rust prevention is no match for King Midas Tracy. Everything he touches turns to orange dust.
Thanks for making me spit toothpaste all over the mirror…
Yeah, I read Autopian while brushing my teeth.
Great score!
Chevy truck doing the real work, of course.
“Yes, we’re bending the rules a bit here having someone make a listing specifically for us versus us finding a Willys MB frame on eBay already”
Yeah, seems like they would’ve eventually put it on eBay anyway so I’d say it’s all good. Yeah, technically (just barely) the eBay stipulation stays nonvolatile, so to speak.
And it’s indeed true what you pointed out about some sellers having items not yet listed; sometimes one can email a seller & inquire about parts not listed and, sure enough, sometimes they’ll have the part. Never hurts to ask…
I’m glad those surplus taxi stickers are being put to good use 😀
My first thought: “yep, he’s still a cheap bastard”
How is this going to be registered ?
I don’t yet know; this is going to be a challenge.
vin off the donor jeep, like the “Ship of Theseus”.
“Jeep of Jeepeus”
As a CA resident that’s dealt heavily with older cars, I really only see two paths to getting a California registration for this thing. You can go the route 4jim suggested and get a doner jeep and section just enough of that vehicle into your new chassis (read: the part of the body/frame that contains the VIN/Serial number; simply swapping VIN/Serial is a no no, but you could make an argument if you, for example, took a section of frame rail or a firewall, etc.). You would then apply for a title using the documentation from the donor jeep (even just a bill of sale will do, because you will need to get a VIN verification, where they will need to see the VIN on the vehicle. I’d suggest going to one of the DMV recognized independent VIN verifiers, as opposed to the DMV themselves, only because they will be more used to oddball/classic car situations like what you are doing.
Your only other route is to do what the cobra kit car guys do, and apply to get a “Specialty Constructed Vehicle” registration (also referred to as the SB100 process) (https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/vehicle-registration/new-registration/register-a-specially-constructed-or-modified-vehicle/). This is quite a bit more involved of a process, and will require you to track every single part installed and where you got it, several trips to the DMV, inspections, and the general whims of the DMV themselves. I’d suggest going through the Cobra/kit car forums because this is what these guys do.
(Here is one example: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?33147-California-SB100-Registration-2024-Update)
I’ve not personally gone through this process, but I researched it a good bit while i was considering a Factory Five build in the past, and its definitely doable, but I’ve seen some pitfalls and gotchas (I’ve seen a couple guys have issues with their engines; one of the potentially nice things about the process is that the DMV should, in theory, register your vehicle as the year of the car you are emulating/resembling- a car from the 60s, or 40s in your case, will not have the typical smog headaches, but I’ve seen some guys install brand new crate engines in cobras, but the DMV tries to treat the cobra as a 2025(for example) model year car because of its new engine, and this causes all types of smog equipment headaches for them)
An article series giving light to the SB100 process might be interesting, even if only catered to California residents, but maybe you guys could cover how the process goes in other states as well?
I’ve read in some states you can transfer the VIN plate from one vehicle to another if a State Trooper is present to observe and record the transfer. You’d have to set it up ahead of time and possibly reimburse the State for the Trooper’s time, but that’s apparently legal in some states.
You might want to video tape it as well – the case I was reading about involved a C2 Corvette that was going to have to be crushed because of a paperwork issue, as IIRC the Trooper didn’t sign off on something properly and a video would have allowed them to fix the after the fact, but they didn’t have that proof so the car wasn’t legal.
Big oops, as it was a very expensive restoration project.
Maybe a second donor C2 could have been used to “fix” things, but my recollection was that wouldn’t be an option. Something about once the VIN plate got attached to the vehicle “improperly”, the only legal option was to destroy the car.
It was years ago, so the details are fuzzy, unfortunately.
Rivets instead of screws led to a pretty screwed up, riveting situation (sorry, couldn’t help myself) with a ’59 Vette in Kansas:
https://www.thedrive.com/article/new-law-saves-seized-1959-chevrolet-corvette-from-government-crusher-after-5-year-fight
I didn’t know VIN plates had ever been screwed in. That’s wild. It’s good to hear he was able to save the car. That must have been a heartbreaking (and wallet busting) five years.
If you were still in the Mitten state it could probably be done as an “assembled roadster”
In Michigan: you could probably pick a donor vinplate out of the puddle of rust that could no longer be held together with bailer twine and duct tape.
I’m going to echo what others have said, and say that I’d love to see an article detailing the process of getting this Jeep registered as a kit car or homebuilt car, as that’s something I’ve always wanted to learn more about.
My understanding is that it just has to include legally required equipment such as indicator lights and windshield wipers, and pass inspections from the DMV to verify that it’s not a massive hazard to other road users, and then of course there’s a bunch of paperwork, but then the vehicle gets registered with you essentially being the manufacturer.
I have always wanted to do this with a CJ-8 but know I never will. The little stuff is the kicker. SO glad you found a frame. I cannot wait for the Moab pictures.
eh, I think the trick for you would be to not limit yourself to stock parts and/or Ebay purchases only.
I thought the K1500 was gonzo! Glad to see you are (at least for now) still a member of the GMT400 club.
not for long, I reckon