When it comes to buying used cars, I usually gravitate towards cheaper, higher-mileage examples, since usually, those are the only way I can afford getting into those cars. For the Mazda MX-5 Miata, this is especially true. No matter the generation, you’re getting a pretty reliable, easy-to-fix vehicle that, even well-used, will deliver smiles every time you turn a corner, provided it’s well taken care of.
I’ve owned a couple of Miatas over the course of my life, and neither one cost me more than $5,000, and both had over 190,000 miles on the clock. Despite their age and odometers, they both drove fantastically and never gave me any huge mechanical problems.
I usually advise anyone who asks me about NA or NB Miatas—the first- and second-generation versions—to buy a clean, well-used example, and spend no more than around $7,000. For seven grand, you can get a Miata that drives beautifully and doesn’t have any rust. For most people who want a Miata, that’s ideal.
To me, spending over $20,000 on an NA Miata is unfathomable. Hell, I wouldn’t spend $20,000 on a current Miata when used examples can regularly be found in the low teens. But I have to admit, this particular NA Miata, listed for sale right now on Craigslist, might actually be worth the money. Just hear me out.
Face It: These Cars Are Collector’s Items Now
If you look back 15 years ago, most gearheads considered the NA Miata a simple, accessible used car that was cheap to own and modify. Good-running examples were a dime a dozen on Craigslist, and most of the time, it wasn’t hard to find a super clean, unmodified example for under $10,000.
While there is still no shortage of first-gen Miatas on Facebook Marketplace nationwide, super clean, untouched examples without rust, mods, or a billion miles on the clock aren’t as plentiful as they used to be. Being cheap, fun, and reliable out of the box meant enthusiasts have snapped these up constantly over the past 35 years, using them and tailoring them to their preferences. Plus, many NA Miatas have either succumbed to rust, been parted out, or been turned into race cars. The pool gets smaller and smaller every day.
One look at the market will tell you I’m right. Back in September, this Sunburst Yellow Miata with 20,000 miles on the clock sold for over $21,000 on Bring a Trailer. Later that month, a black-painted Miata with 46,000 miles on the clock sold for $21,000 on the dot.
Things get even pricier if the cars have truly never been driven. Back in 2024, this basically new, virtually untouched Miata with just 38 miles on the clock sold on Bring a Trailer for over $40,000 back in 2024. Just this February, an unmodified MX-5 with 150 miles on the clock sold for the equivalent of $35,000 in the Netherlands. To find an NA Miata more valuable, you’ll have to look to cars with V8 swaps.
I’m not exactly surprised to see early Miatas trending in this direction. Aside from being universally loved and well-designed, they’re also one of the most exciting vehicles I’ve ever driven. The classic front-engine, rear-wheel drive layout, convertible top, beautifully slick shifter, and thrilling chassis balance come together to deliver a truly fulfilling experience. It makes sense why collectors have begun to snatch them up.
Ultra Clean AND The Best Spec
That brings me to this car. Listed for sale on Craigslist in Los Angeles and brought to my attention by Barn Finds, this is what I’d describe as my ideal NA Miata. It’s an early build—May 1989, the second month of production, according to the seller—which means it has the less powerful, but more eager-to-rev 1.6-liter inline-four, rather than the more powerful (but in my opinion, slightly less exciting) 1.8-liter engine.
This Miata is also the right color: Mariner Blue. Only offered in the first four years of production, this paint has become especially desirable amongst NA enthusiasts, and anyone with taste can see why. It’s bright and vibrant, and matches the car’s bubbly attitude. There’s a five-speed manual between the seats, of course, while the only option box ticked is for the air conditioning.
Being a base trim, there’s no power steering, no power windows, and no limited-slip differential. The steelies are factory-fresh and, in my opinion, are the best-looking wheels to come on the NA (sorry, daisy-shaped seven-spoke fans). This is exactly how I’d order a Miata if I were sitting in a Mazda dealership in 1989. Pure and simple, with enough tech to keep me cool when it gets hot outside.
There are many Mariner Blue Miatas in this spec out in the world, of course. Mazda built over 13,000 Miatas in this shade, according to Miata.net. What makes this one special is its mileage, condition, and originality. This car currently has just 37,900 miles on the clock, and it’s totally stock aside from a new soft top, which replaces the plastic rear window with a glass item. It also appears to be virtually new, with no fading paint or signs of use in the interior. The only real giveaway that this car is over 30 years old is the seatbelt buckle release button, which has faded from red to a dull pink.
Listed for sale for $22,500, it’s certainly one of the priciest bone-stock Miatas in the country right now. But I’d argue it’s also one of the most original, highest-quality examples out there, too. If I were a collector, this would be the Miata I’d buy. Do you agree? I want to know what you think in the comments. Am I crazy here, or is this actually a fair price for this car?
Top graphic image: Seller, Craigslist
If nobody else wants it I’ll take it gladly.
It essentially has the spirit of my long deceased MG MGB-without being afflicted by the “Prince of Darkness”!!lol
No power windows, mirrors or steering-takes sports cars back to its pure essence of driving enjoyment!!
I remember when the Miata first came out they were waiting lists anywhere from six months to one year long-and people were willing to wait. The Hiroshima factory couldn’t build them fast enough. It was literally a case of “shut up and take my money!!”
My NA is probably the most boring colour as it’s a Silverstone. Well, white might look even more boring, but at least it’s ap-peel-ing on a lot of them…
If your plan is to garage it and hope it has some ROI, then sure.
If you want something to drive and enjoy, then no.
Stop making sense!
I think it’s a fine starting price for what is a full-on classic car at this point. I’d try to negotiate down slightly, maybe settle on $21k? But yeah, inflation plus desirable car. Seems fair.
I’ll disagree on this being the best spec. The 1.6 is inferior – even for a Miata, there is such a thing as “too little power”. The 1.8 is a notable upgrade.
The steelies are also really ugly and make the car look unfinished.
Fun fact – the Miata was never supposed to be shipped with steelies. Mazda only fitted them because the popularity of the car caught them off guard and they didn’t have enough alloys to keep up.
I think it’s a moral imperative to swap out the steelies on every NA to match Mazda’s initial intent.
I like steelies when used appropriately. For instance I use them in winter when they will likely get beat to shit on bad roads. But on a Miata? Hard no, that’s like a ballet dancer in rubber boots.
“…a ballet dancer in rubber boots.”
Come on now, take it easy: this is a family website. No needless erotica! 😉
I agree it would be my choice as well even if it is about $4,500 more than it cost new. If memory serves me. But if I’m not getting this garage queen I’m buying a Fiata. I just think the Italians designed a better body. I mean who you going to choose?
They’re fine, but I’m not smitten with Fiatas, and TBH, I’d rather have the Mazda engine. Also, you (and I) have to stop comparing cars to what they cost new, or cost just 5 years ago. In other comments, I pointed out that buying a base (XL) hyrbid Maverick with almost 50,000 miles on the clock currently costs what the car sold for new (MSRP) when it came out during the pandemic.
It’s irksome, but essentially moot. The market does what it does, without regard for us non-millionaires who have a list of cars to own/try before we die.
I agree comparing the cost of a basic new car to a older fancy upscale car is apples to washing machines. In this particular case I thought the low mileage Miata vs what the Miata cost in 1989 37 years ago was relevant as the Miata hasn’t really achieved collector car status yet.
Thinking more and more about swapping my BRZ for a Miata, but definitely not paying that much! But yeah NAs are going full classic now. Hopefully not too many wind up in collections never getting driven. Even if it’s just an occasional Sunday drive Miata’s deserve owners that use them.
I’m curious why you would trade the BRZ. Other than the claimed disappointing fuel economy of the BRZ, I’m not sure what the downside would be compared to Miata. Fixed hard top?
To me I’m leaning towards a Toybaru simply becasue I can travel with a companion and both of our golf clubs. I also don’t waste gas and rubber on tracks, so maybe that would be a differentiation?
BRZ’s are great, I highly recommend them. But I grew up with Miata’s so I have nostalgia and bias. So little stuff like the shift action not being as good on the BRZ bugs me. And bigger realizations, like I actually love having the top down, haha. I used to like coupes better cause I thought they look cooler but I’m older and don’t care as much now, or something like that. You can’t go far wrong with either car but if your use case needs the extra space definitely go Toyobaru.
If I could fit (rending garments) I don’t think the price is outrageous. Any good condition enthusiast car is always high. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.
Take my upvote for the Ferris reference.
I think it’s fair enough for a really nice example. I’d want the power steering though.
Personally, I just find them a little too modern and a bit too much of a copy, while still agreeing that they are excellent cars. But I’d rather have a British classic (excellence can be a bit boring) at this price level. $22.5K buys you a LOT of hairy-chested Triumph TR6. As good as the Miata is, old modern cars come with old modern car problems that are not quite so easy to sort as on ye olde British crocke.
It amuses me that this car is now MUCH older than my ’74 Spitfire was when I bought it in 1996. My car wasn’t even old enough for antique plates yet.
Older than my 78 Fiat spyder as well.
Mine has power steering and I’d prefer it without. Also, I could easily live with the manaul roll-up windows… all old Miatas with power windows get that bearing thing (DIY fixable, if you have the time) that cause them to go super slow. Plus, the windows are so small, that it can’t be more than a few cranks to open/close them.
My pal recently sold his tweaked MG Midget and bought a first gen (AW11?) MR2 that he’s pumping $ into. It’s a base base car w/manual windows and tin roof and of course, he loves it.
I love a TR6 (I’ve ridden in, but never driven one) and along with the TR250, it’s one of the best looking Triumphs IMO. But honestly (maybe because I feel old) if I’m owning something for years, I’d rather have an old Japanese sportscar (I have a NA with hardtop atm).
I could not care less about power windows (I’d rarely close them anyway) – but I prefer Miatas with power steering having driven both. The ratio is quicker and the feel is just as good. They feel a bit dead at lower speeds without it.
My Spitfire has been as reliable and a lot cheaper to keep than the ’90 Miata that my buddy has also owned for 30 years. As I said, modern cars have modern car problems. I will never have to replace an ECU in my car, but he did…
20 miles/week on average. If it lived in California all 36 years, the two owners had massive self-control or self-deprivation. Hope the next owner lets it off the leash.
If they look at it as a cheap weekend used car for sure. If they think park it and Cash in later no.
I get it; like, I live 6 miles from the gym, 6 miles from my mom’s house,maybe 3 to the bar, and work from home. If you’re only doing that circuit a few times a week,plus you have a second car, the miles will stay low; heck I have a 96 GT convertible with 42k miles on it cause it only gets driven April to October. Coupled with the nice weather/a garage out there, I’m almost surprised there aren’t more like this for sale.
I haven’t put more than 2K a year on my ’11 BMW wagon in the decade since I moved to Florida, has 55K on it now. It just gets used summers at my place in Maine. And about 500 miles a year on my Spitfire, and less than that on my Land Rover Disco on average.
Early 1.6 = Short nose crank, I’d be looking for a later one. Had to swap the bottom end in my ’90 shortly after I got it, the crank pulley wobbled around so bad it was impossible to check timing and eventually threw the power steering belt. I guess it helps that they’re easy to work on, but it was still a lot of work.
Nope. This isn’t a car to let off the leash.
It should be garaged, waxed, kept on a charger, and driven a few times a month.
It’s a used car for $20k. Not a million dollar Ferrari
That’s surely the life it will lead, but that doesn’t really change the fact that I’d rather have a later example.
Nice price, for the right person.
Meaning someone with a garage with a concrete floor, not a barn, money to burn, knowledge about what it represents and will keep it in top original shape, has other cars for daily use, and can use it as an occasional fun car.
Luckily that high price will keep the youths out of it so it doesn’t get slammed-bammed.
Yes, it’d be a shame to mod this. And financially foolish too.
I drove a Miata NA back in the days when dealers were marking them up to $25K or so — and people were paying that much — and absolutely loved the little thing. It was the closest I could get to a lotus Elan, which was what I was really jonesing for.
After putting in some time with newer versions, I still think the NAs are the best of the breed. Would prefer BRG, but if the right one came along in some other color, I’d be very tempted. I’m neutral about the wheel choice, but some of the other options are okay if they’re in place. I wouldn’t quibble.
But one drive should cure any enthusiast of that “I’m a collector, so I have to lock it away and save it for the future!” jive. These are simply too good on the road to not rack up the miles with.
The Miata really is better with power steering. It has a faster steering ratio than the non-power one, and you can make it even faster with aftermarket knuckles. Also, you can put lower offset wheels on there and the steering effort won’t be too high like it would be without PS.
Mine has a depowered rack and it’s true the steering is fantastically fast. I will say, the car is so light that the steering really isn’t heavy at all, even with wide sticky track tires.
I used to drive a 60′ Bel Air with manual steering. It was fine. Also rolled in a fair number of C10s in the 70s with manual everything, it’s all good.
Well I’ve driven an Army Deuce and a half (ie. two and a half ton) truck with no power steering. And you know what? I prefer power steering.
While I’ve had slightly heavier cars that were no problem with manual racks even with smaller diameter steering wheels, PS doesn’t necessarily mean worse steering feel as people tend to assume, especially from this era, and a quicker rack is a plus here.
1-baby blue is not my favorite.
2-mr silvestro wont spend more than 7 large on a car but writes for a car site. thats like reading restaurant reviews from a guy that eats nothing but mcdonlds- no offense.
I would wager that there’s a significant portion of the readership who are also cheap bastards. I personally have not spent more than $6,000 on a car.
It’s more like reading restaurant reviews from a guy who gets to eat a meal at all the nice places for work but only cooks for his regular meals. It’s not only relatable, but probably healthier too.
“I would wager that there’s a significant portion of the readership who are also cheap bastards.”
As it should be.
😉
Being unwilling or unable to invest large sums in to the purchase of car has exactly WHAT to do with being a car enthusiast? I guess the guy driving a $28K Appliance Car is much more of an enthusiast than the guy driving a $1500 1974 Plymouth Duster.
You’re right, it must be that SWG is also not a fitting person to discuss the fine art of auto enthusiasm. /s
Not crazy, but Miatae want to be driven. I’d rather buy 2 or 3 nice driver Miatae with higher miles that look good from 10 feet. This one feels too nice to use regularly.
I bought a 92 Miata in November mostly for the hard top and bargained the price to $5500. For that I am living with some rust, ~210K miles, and paint issues up front that will get a partial wrap soon. I hopefully just finished repairing any needed maintanence items to make it a decent runner.
It’s a 92 Black with special option packages that make it tan interior, Nardi accessories, BBS wheels, etc. Again I bought it for the hard top and fairly cheap as well as local.
I kinda wish it had less options, crank windows and the lot. The wheels look nice though.
I also have a friend that probably thinks MK1 MR2’s should still be $1k, like those days are gone.
I bought a fastback S13, KA24 w/auto, WITH complete manual swap, for $1K back in the day. That car might be the single best investment I’ve made in my entire life. I still have it, but if I were to sell it, its worth a fair amount (not tons obviously, but noticeably more than $1k). Never motor swapped, never drifted, never abused. I’m the only person who ever drove it with the manual trans.
I mean, they should be $1k. Until I buy several mint condition examples. Then the price can go up.
Maybe I have the same special edition NA?
Mine’s a ’94 in black with hard top. Black center BBS basketweave wheels with polished rims (mine are missing the center caps). Tan leather interior with wooden Nardi shift knob. A few other things too that escape my recollection at the moment. Also, it’s got factory cruise, and a few other buttons/switches that I haven’t identified the purpose of yet.
Honestly, I’d have preferred it with regular daisy alloys, crank windows, and in any color other than black, but it was too tempting to pass up… I was the first person to look at it, and I basically bought it on the spot after taking it for a test drive.
I paid just $2,250. for it at the start of the pandemic, even though it didn’t have a title (so I took the chance, and it turned out to be kosher, so CA sent me a new title).
Do you happen to know what this special edition is called? I’ve never really googled about it.
Also, I don’t suppose you know of someplace to get the wheel center caps for any sort of reasonable price?
TIA TK-421! 🙂
After I posted about mine on Grassroots, the editor shared a link about special editions:
https://www.miata.net/faq/miatase.html
Mine was missing a center cap, and I found one on eBay for like $100 or so, it was worth it to me at least. I was happy the big wrench for them was still in the trunk.
Thanks TK! 🙂
Sorry but I’m going to disagree. Base model cars are not the best spec unless you’re planning on racing it, which no one will ever do with this collectible piece. Hardly anyone buys base model cars for a reason, they suck. Automakers have figured out what people like over the years and they add those things into their cars. Power windows, locks and mirrors? Yes, I don’t what to have to lean over and fumble with the other window handle or try and reach across to adjust the mirror. Power steering? On a track, ok, yes, manual gives better feedback. In a parking lot it sucks. Yes, I know the Miata is light, I own one, but I’ve also driven a base with out PS and it’s a chore for regular use. Even with PS the Miata still gives fabulous feedback.
That’s not to say I need a rolling tech showplace with screens everywhere, but a little comfort is a welcome thing in a car you’re actually going to use.
Also, personal opinion, the steelies are fugly ugly and look like they were stolen from a Tuk-Tuk. The daisys weren’t great either but they are better than these things.
All that being said, I think the price is crazy, but it’s not too out of line compared to what these are going for nowdays. Maybe a bit high considering the mileage but probably close. I think for the $22k it should probably be under 15k on the clock but who knows, it will probably sell.
Base model cars are great used cars- fewer things to break. They are great for modifications too. The cruise control and the AC just get in the way. I do agree that the power steering is a good thing in any Miata.
I will admit that cruise on a Miata is kind of pointless. Mine actually has it but I think I’ve only used in once in 6 years. But I use my Miata all the time, not just on nice days in the spring so AC is an absolute necessity. Granted it doesn’t get used as much as the AC in my truck, but when it’s 85 degrees and raining, you really want the AC.
I live in Florida. AC is an absolute must. Heat on the other hand…
I’ve never once used the cruise control on my NA either, but I rarely go far, or even take the freeway. I did recently get the AC recharged because black paint/southern CA weather. 🙂
I mostly disagree. Not all options are a waste, but loaded cars are terrible value for the money. Automakers figured out what they can screw people on in regards to option packages that are nearly all profit while base models can sometimes nearly be loss leaders. Options can double the price or more of some cars, but you’re getting the same car as the base, just with more junk that adds weight and potential reliability issues. Depreciation also tends to hit the loaded ones harder percentage-wise. Nowadays, most cars come with so much standard stuff, I’d almost rather have an option below base (especially if I could get rid of all the connected crap and active “safety” nonsense). That said, sometimes they’re very good with figuring the trim packages so that the base has depressing interior materials, colors, etc., making the next level up a much more appealing car for a modest amount more. Of course, something like a Miata is a poor example of any of this as it’s such a basic car and sports or performance cars do tend to hold the value more for options, especially anything performance related.
Definitely with you on steel wheels. Maybe it’s because I’m old and don’t suffer from nostalgia, but steels holds no appeal to me whatsoever—they remind me of base model junk and ugly wheel covers that littered sidewalks after they popped off, look merely OK at best, corrode, are more flexible than alloys, and weigh more, which is especially bad on something so light. IMO, the only reasons to get them is if you don’t like the optional alloys and plan to replace them with something aftermarket or want something cheap to mount snow tires on, but even then, there are cheap alloys that aren’t much more than steelies nowadays. For me, steelies are only one step above the thankfully short lived cheapskate-shaming unpainted plastic bumpers (that is until they made it a design feature on soft roaders).
I don’t inherently love all steelies, nor these particular steelies. However, a deep dish steelie and a smooth steelie are both things of beauty that I much adore.
Thank you. Hard pill to swallow for this website and its readers, but base is almost always worse.
If only I was closer, this is my dream car.
Whoever bought one and never drove it to sell it now made a really dumb investment decision.
My guess is it’s for sale by the original owner’s next of kin.
It has the best color and wheels, but you should at least get a hardtop if you’re paying $20k+.
I also can’t help but wonder if we’re approaching the ceiling for NA Miata prices.
I’m sure they’ll continue to appreciate, though probably not fast since they made so many. Which will keep them affordable for us non-millionaires for a while longer. 🙂
I agree re: the hardtop. I’ve had a few different convertibles in my life: Rabbit, Stingray, two Miatas… and my current NA has the hard top and it looks so nice/has such good rear visiblity with the top on, I tend to leave it on almost all of the time. A NA with the hardtop and lights up looks fantastic in any color/with any wheels IMO.
I’m not an expert on CA registration rules, but this car has a license plate that’s 1-2 years old. I think that implies either that it was only moved to CA recently, or that it was out of service without a proper “inoperable” registration for a period of time. Neither is a red flag, but it bears further inquiry.
Red sticker = 2026 (or 2016 but highly unlikely)
The first 9 plates were in March of 2022, so his ~3 year ownership isn’t ruled out by the plate.
I had been under the impression that new plates were only issued when the car was sold, or transferred into CA.
I’m trying to recall, having bought/sold many old cars in CA. When you buy and register a used car in CA, you don’t automatically get new plates… that I’m sure of.
I don’t like it when you mention that this is 36 years old. That makes me realize that I am getting old.
I’ll make you exhale when I tell you that somehow I’m 71.
Perhaps from a collector/investment perspective. I would rather pay a similar amount for a 2018 ND Miata Soul Red Crystal MT with 36k miles
Not crazy.
(Specifying steelies is what sealed the deal for me.)