It’s the morning after a long work week, and you and your family are excited to hop in the car and enjoy some well-deserved time off. Everyone piles in, and you turn the key. Crap, the check engine light is on again. You pull the code, and sure enough, that problem you fixed only a couple of months ago is back. Some cars seem to have a knack for never staying fixed. Have you ever owned a car that always gave you problems?
My wife is hard on her daily drivers. Her cars are required to survive a serious beating of 30,000 miles to 40,000 miles a year. Sheryl is also a bit of a rough driver, and gives her brakes, suspension, and tires a thorough workout. This is demanding on any car, especially a used one.
Back in December 2023, she bought a Scion iQ that had 67,000 miles on it. By early this year, the car had around 110,000 miles on it. Thankfully, my wife hasn’t needed to drive nearly as hard this year as she’s had in the past, and the has only recently crested 120,000 miles. This car has held up exceptionally well, even surviving getting bumped into the back of a crossover. But one part has been bugging me.
One of the upgrades that my wife had done to the car was the installation of an aftermarket cruise control unit, which routes its wiring through the throttle pedal to work. A handful of months after the cruise control was installed, the throttle pedal, which works through a by-wire system in the iQ, died. Sheryl paid to have a new pedal installed and then used the warranty on the cruise control to have that replaced.
Now, it’s not even a year later and, surprise, the brand-new throttle pedal is dead. There is a perpetually stored code in the vehicle: “P2121 – Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance.” That’s the same code that brought down the throttle pedal less than a year ago.
When the pedal was replaced, Toyota dealer technicians had concluded that the cruise control had experienced an electrical failure of some kind, which sent bad signals to the pedal, which eventually broke its sensor. Alright, so either the same thing has happened here, or there’s something else going on. Either way, the iQ will randomly go into limp mode and reduce its top speed to around 45 mph until this is fixed. This time, I’m going to recommend against installing yet another replacement cruise control.
Meanwhile, my beloved Marmalade, a 2005 Genuine Stella scooter, is still breaking. I’ve fixed her flasher relay, adjusted the clutch cable, and finally got the electric starter going again. But just yesterday, the right side mirror sheared right off while I was idling at a red light. Honestly, I can’t stop laughing about that one.
Oh, and the scooter also has a massive two-stroke oil leak, which is something that has happened before that I had previously fixed, but now it’s leaking from a new place. This time, I think the gasket at the oil pump had failed. Again, I’m more amused than anything. The scooter is so easy and fun to fix that I honestly don’t care how much it breaks. In the scooter’s defense, it did sit for 11 years, too.
Anyway, how about you? Have you ever owned cars or motorcycles that refused to stay fixed?
1980 Olds Omega, V6 automatic.
Engine and tranny were nearly flawless, but everything else under the hood took huge amounts of time and barked knuckles to replace.
After all, this was not the first FWD effort from GM, but as a multi make platform they should have paid more attention to serviceability, but they didn’t.
Engine mounts, alternators, that 2 BBl inline carburetor, those California only reed valve contraptions that were supposed to replace a smog pump, all of it was hard to reach, harder to replace. How many cars have you seen where you have to remove the horns to replace the alternator?
I spent so much time under the hood, the lady up the street assumed I was lavishing nothing but loving care on it, so she insisted on buying it for her daughter. All I was doing was trying to keep the cursed thing running.
I couldn’t sell it to her it fast enough. Wasn’t long after they moved away and I didn’t have to look over my shoulder anymore. Worst car I ever had .
That was my last GM car until we got a 2001 LeSabre, which came in as the second worst car ever..and my last GM car ever. The only goodness in that pile was the 3800 V6.
Nissan fuel pumps, the aftermarket ones. My sister had a 2003 Sentra, fuel pump went out, new one was $600+ so she got an aftermarket one and I installed it. Fuel gauge didn’t work with the new pump, I just told her to fill it up when it hit 300 miles. Then the new pump quit working a few months later. Got another under warranty, it lasted a little longer then died. I forget how many we swapped out, even got the parts store to give us a different brand and the pump still died. At least they were easy to swap, pull out the back seat surface and there was an access panel.
She got a 2008 Versa, fuel pump lasted 150,000+ miles in that. Got I believe a NAPA replacement for that, it lasted a few months and died. So far so good on the replacement for that one.
Sure lots of them. The latest was a 75 Dodge Dart. We couldn’t stop the water leaks into the interior. I resealed the front and back windows. It worked for a few weeks then leaked again. Then we bought reproduction seals and had the best glass shop in the area reseal the windows. It leaked worse after that. We sold it reluctantly. It was a great driving car, but it rains in Florida every day in the summer and a car full of water was getting old.
It’s amazing how much water gets into the places you don’t want it.
I had a 1995 BMW 530i that was just falling apart around me. When I got it, zero windows went up or down. A/C didn’t work. Heat didn’t work. Awful leaks everywhere. And it only got worse. As soon as I fixed anything, something else broke. Multiple IAC valves, the taillight sockets were bad. Fuel pumps. A failing PCV made a fun James Bond-style smoke screen for a drive home. High beams stopped working. Headliner falling.
But when it was running right and I floored it, that little 3-liter V8 sang. Almost made the other stuff worth it. Almost.
I have owned 1994 530i with the infamous Nikasil M60B30.
mine was flawless with 50k miles in 2022.
however I have now 1997 528i and this son of a bitch wants to bankrupt me.
also in min condition with 80k miles on it but holy shit this year was a mess.
all of it was in August. glad its over but somehow I am sure something else will happen tomorrow, stay tuned.
my awesome semi-Cal look ’62 beetle survived the drive from MN to MT for college (I did have to stop once and beg an allen wrench to readjust the front torsion bar after it began to sag), only to have a pushrod tube get demolished by a rock while I was on my way to go skiing, dumping most of the oil and seizing the engine. Replacement longblock was installed, only to crack during my drive back to MN for the summer, covering the rear window with oil spray and necessitating a top up every 100 miles. Third engine ran like a champ, but the mechanic didn’t have the fan shroud properly adjusted/snugged down. While driving back to MT, the shroud connected with the electric choke on the progressive Weber and literally smoked the entire (original) wiring harness.
I sold the car to a VW shop, essentially for scrap, and bought a Subaru GL.
My 2008 Silverado 3500HD. Nearly everything aside for the engine and differentials have failed. I recently took it on a shakedown run after it quit running (twice) on a 500 mile trip, which itself was a shakedown run because the oil pressure sender may (?) be bad. On that second shakedown run the fuel gauge has stopped reading. And the heat controls still revert to either full heat or full cold depending on the phase of the moon. It feels like every time I fix one thing, two more things break.
In any event, it is the only car that my wife refuses to drive. For reference, we’ve driven numerous Audis and Volkswagens between 200,000 and 320,000 miles. My wife’s current foul-weather ride is a 2016 Touareg with 150,000 miles, so she is no stranger to cars that (according to the internet) should have a tow-truck driving behind them.
My ’86 Yamaha XJ700X, aka Maxim-X. It was a somewhat ugly cruiser-looking bike but with a liquid-cooled 4-cyl with 5-valve heads, putting out 86 hp. I bought it with 40k miles on the clock and put four more miles on it in five years before selling it.
In that time I replaced the entire ignition system, adjusted the valve lash, cleaned and installed a replacement rack of carbs, plus plenty of other little odds and ends. I’d already planned to sell it and was attempting to diagnose an intake leak, when all I could get out of it was a ‘click’ when trying to start it, on a brand new battery. Fuck it…the thing went on CL that night and was gone the next morning.
I had a 1987 Ford Mustang GT convertible that had every single damned thing you can imagine replaced at least once.
Engine, transmission, rear gear set, exhaust system, every sensor, multiple alternators, a fuel pump… I swear the only things on it that I didn’t replace were the power steering pump and A/C compressor. It was beautiful, it was fast, and it was the biggest pile of shit I’ve ever owned.
The ‘Stang of Theseus
Yes, but not for long. Once I lose trust in a vehicle, I ditch it.
Cooling system on a Focus SVT. First the belt tensioner went so it overheated. Then the thermostat was stuck closed. Then the thermostatic switch for the fans wasn’t working if the AC was off. It also overheated another time and I can’t remember the root cause.
Glad I dumped that piece. Realized after the fact it was a repo car via Carfax. Explains the lack of maintenance.
1995 Chevy S10 Blazer around 2006 or so. CEL on during the test drive should have been a red flag, but it was a Chevy dealership & we stopped at a parts store, reader said it was a minor problem (forget exactly). Why didn’t the Chevy dealer read the code? Another flag we skipped.
Ended up paying $2k and driving home. Took it to a shop & was told it needed new injectors for about $800. My ex & her mom went back to the dealer and as usual her temper got her thrown out.
Got the repair, but then realized many other things were wrong. No AC, driver’s window didn’t work (bad combo there), electric seat wouldn’t move, only 1 speaker worked, among other things. Over a couple years it was always needing something. If it started, there was no guarantee it would stay running. While running, it would occasionally die for no reason. Repeat daily.
One time it was towed in for repairs, went to pick it up & still didn’t start. She had to turn around to pick me up again. After we split up, I decided I was trading it in next Spring (this was December) but ended up totaling it in mid-December. I escaped with minor bruising and no deep breathes for a couple days, but damn I was glad to see it go.
EDIT: about a year later, I was not surprised to see Beechmont Chevrolet was closed for good.
I have not been able to get my ’71 Beetle to run right. First the brakes got stuck and wouldn’t release, then the front end was so out of alignment it shredded both front tires, then it would die at every stoplight because it wouldn’t idle…it’s been sitting after I left the key on overnight for a reason.
Several mid 2000s gm products if it wasn’t the same thing again it was something new and stupid with a recommended fix equality as dumb. I had to fix a relatives labaron frequently it just wanted to die and he wouldn’t let it. I’ve had a few Audi’s and vws that I felt similar about.
Nothing more charming than a Saab! My 2005 9-3 2.0T spent 7 years with throttle body and throttle position sensor faults (they’re one and the same on the Saab, of course). Used to go into limp mode, then over the years the engine just started shutting off once the pedal was depressed over 30%. Had the throttle body replaced 4 times, re-wired and rebuilt too. Nothing ever fixed it and I held onto it way too long. Was a great first car though, aside from that it was restricted to local roads, and wouldn’t start half the time!
Must be something in the water at the time, my 2000 Saab 9-5 wagon kept doing weird shit all the time. I held on to it for WAY too long based on night panel.
I owned the worst Volvo ever made, an ’82 245 Turbo. Everything broke. It caught fire on Rt128 outside Boston and like a fool I put the fire out and had the POS towed home.
My 2015 Subaru Crosstrek. I made the mistake of adding up how much I had spent on it in the last 3 years. $7852. Yay.
Ouch, people seem unable to believe how bad Subaru has gotten they just keep buying and saying how great they are like some kind of cult.
Meh…there are plenty of people who are very happy with theirs and have spent very little on them. Then there are plenty other vehicles from other manufacturers which should have been reliable but haven’t been.
There isn’t a brand that’s 100% but the owners and fans alike will typically admit it. When recommending the brand or model it will come with caveats. Even Toyota fans are now admitting there are faults. That just isn’t the case with Subaru. The normal 6 pack of engines joke maybe and that’s about all you get.
What did that staggering amount of dollars get you? CVT?
My X5 to your Crosstrek “that’s cute, hold my beer”
I’m well over 12K for the last 3 years. It’s depressing.
*LAUGHS IN JAGUAR*
Yes, my two (2!) 1988 Audi 5000s (one Quattro and the other FWD). Such nice cars, especially the FWD model which was in better condition. Such terrible electrical system engineering. I genuinely think the whole body electrical system would need to be redesigned to make those cars truly reliable.
I’m a proponent of keeping something small eternally broken. The universe does not allow a perfect car.
My Abarth has only broken in the smallest and dumbest ways, so I’m not about to start playing with the Italian car gods.
My Corvair. Not even sure I need to elaborate. I thought I had it running pretty good when I sold it. Buyer later messaged me to say it was running pretty good… on two cylinders.
Had a Sebring for a while, and that thing was always broken. Never anything major, but always something. Due to limited finances at the time, the broken pieces would often take me a month or so to get it fixed, but every time something else would go out within a week of when I got the last issue fixed.
I daily drive a decade old Chevy Cruze that I purchased new, now approaching 200K miles. For the most part, it’s been dead reliable, until about a year ago when it developed a coolant leak. I’m aware that the cooling systems are the weak link in these cars and have had isolated parts failures in the past that were quickly rectified. Not this time. I played whack a mole for the past year, taking it back and forth to the mechanic. We’d replace a part or two, and it’d stop. Then within a month or so it would start leaking from another source. I became conditioned to carrying around a jug of coolant wherever I went and checking the reservoir at least once a day to top up as needed. As of 60 days ago, it finally seems to have stopped now that we’ve replaced nearly every part that could conceivably fail. Hoping I’m good for a while.
My E36 was a very jealous car, if another vehicle got any attention, it would also then require some.
I owned a ’93 Audi 100CS Quattro. I loved that car, but it didn’t want to love me back. That car had all sorts of weird quirks like the trans randomly going into pimp mode, or that one time I floored it and the sunroof opened.
That last one really threw me because the engine used a cable throttle, not drive by wire.
Anyways, I wasn’t nearly as experienced in electrical troubleshooting as I am now, so that car got offloaded after 8 months of electrical gremlins.
This might be my favorite typo of the summer right here. 🙂
Damn you auto-correct!
I mean, it was locked in 2nd gear, so you had to roll slow. So maybe it WAS pimp mode?
Edit: Does this mean I get Typo of The Day? bahahah.
Definitely pimp mode…
How do I get my transmission to go into pimp mode?
I just posted about my Audi 5000s; very similar to your 100. The whole electrical system was hot garbage. No relays for the headlights, every switch was shitty, it was a disaster. I’m pretty good with electrical stuff and just got tired of everything being under engineered for its purpose.
I’m not entirely sure, but it certainly leaves you feeling totally fucked when it happens at highways speeds. There’s no rev like an overrev!
“like the trans randomly going into pimp mode”
Now that’s a feature I’d take over heated seats any day!!!
From 1995 to 2000 I owned a 1970 Jeepster Commando, It leaked everything, The electrical system was intermittent. I patched the gas tank so many times I could remove it blindfolded, Eventually paid for the fancy tank restoration and sealing. It was horrible and dangerous on the highway but I loved it off road. Eventually I even traded for a 82 CJ-8 that I sold for a house down payment and that was also a breakdown machine.
Living up to the old “Just Empty Every Pocket” adage. I say this as someone who owned two XJs.
I owned a TJ… And once it was out of warranty, yes, there was always something breaking.
I traded it for a used Land Rover Discovery I. Fewer things broke, and they tended to be easier to fix.
“Gee, this Jeep sure is unreliable. I better replace it with a used Land Rover!”
#BrandNewSentence
Amusingly, I replaced an ’01 Grand Cherokee with an ’02 Range Rover HSE that had more miles on it. The Range Rover was, in fact, rather more reliable than the Jeep over time. I sold the Jeep to a friend and the engine blew up (I6 ate a valve). She fixed it and traded it in on a car. The Rover AFAIK is still on the road – I see it around town occasionally. The ’95 Land Rover Disco that replaced the Range Rover is more reliable than either of them. Much less to go wrong with it than the Range Rover.
“I also like to live… Dangerously…“
I bought the lifetime bumper to bumper with my JKU and have used the hell out of it for 13 and counting years.