After a couple of months of dealing with flaky buyers from Facebook Marketplace, I finally managed to sell my 2003 Mazda MX-5 Miata. I got pretty much what I paid for it, so I’m happy. For the last few days, only one thought has been buzzing through my mind: What should I replace it with?
Ironically, that’s meant even more time on Facebook Marketplace, browsing suggested listings and fighting with the platform’s hopeless search function, which can’t seem to tell the difference between a BMW and a Citroën.
I have yet to really narrow down what I’d like to buy next, so I’m turning to you, the great citizens of Autopia, for help.
Wait, Why’d You Sell The Miata?
I maintain the NB is the best Miata out there, but this one was getting a bit rough. It was a tiny bit more rusty than I liked, and the suspension was getting tired from having to deal with New York City streets all the time. It also didn’t have a roll bar, which means I couldn’t take it to track days like I wanted to.
Yes, I could’ve easily installed a roll bar, but I’d rather put that time and money into something more immediately ready for track use. The Miata also needed brakes and probably a few engine seals redone, and I didn’t have the patience to deal with those things (I get tired of cars quickly, as you can probably tell). I suspect this one wouldn’t have lasted long if it were being driven at 10/10ths for an entire day.
Plus, I have hundreds, if not thousands, of hours behind the wheels of Miatas. I’ve driven four different NAs, three NBs, a couple of NCs, and probably over a dozen NDs over the past decade alone. So I’m looking for something different.
How’d You Make Out?
Pretty okay, all things considered. I bought the car in the summer of 2024 from a guy offloading their small collection of sports cars in Long Island, New York for $5,000. Before he owned it, the car spent a bunch of time in Connecticut, according to the CarFax. Despite its Northeastern origins, it wasn’t terribly rusty underneath—the only concerning area was the right side rocker, right in front of the rear wheel. But that’s pretty standard for NAs and NBs, so I didn’t stress much.
I bought the car with just over 193,000 miles on the clock, and sold it with around 197,000 miles. Considering I work from home, that’s about what I expected from a year (plus a few months) of ownership. The car mostly sat in a parking spot in Brooklyn, but I did have a few memorable drives with it, including the above photo last summer, and a rip through a snowstorm back in January, when I had the wheels wrapped in studded winter tires (overkill for these conditions, I know. But it was fun.)
If you’re mad at me for not driving this Miata enough, I get it. You’ll be happy to know the new owner, who paid me $4,900 for the car, is planning to use it as a daily driver. So it’ll get driven. There’s plenty of life left in this car, and if I had the money (and space) to keep it and get something new, I would. But I’m losing my cherished parking spot, so space is a bit limited right now.
So What’s Next?
That’s the thing: I’m not sure. I’ve driven a lot of cars, so I know what makes me happy. But a lot of cars make me happy, so that doesn’t really narrow it down.
Here are some baseline requirements: I’d like to spend $10,000 to $15,000, but I’ll push the budget to $20,000 if something really piques my interest. Because I already have a daily driver/beater /winter car in my 2008 Range Rover, I don’t need anything remotely practical or spacious. Ideally, I’d be buying a sporty sedan or purpose-built sports car.
But that doesn’t mean I want some stripped-out drift machine. I’d like something with working air conditioning and a stereo, since I love doing road trips, and doing one without either of those features seems hellish. I also like going to track days, so ideally, the car will be well-suited for high-performance driving without needing significant modifications or repair. Because most race tracks have a policy that requires rollover protection, most convertibles are out, unless they have a qualifying rollbar installed.
Cars like the first-gen BRZ/86 twins are near the top of my list, as are older BMW M cars like the E36-generation M3. I’d also consider something bigger, like an M5. Sure, I’ve owned a couple of M5s before, but I’d happily own another one. I’m not opposed to an older Porsche Boxster, either, though I’ve driven a few of those cars and owned one in the past, so it’d have to be a pretty good deal to consider. The same goes for cars like the Fiesta ST or the Honda S2000—both great cars that can be had for very cheap, but for me, it’s been there, done that.
I’m sure there are plenty of other cars I’m not thinking of. So I’d like to know what you think. The more interesting, the better.
Top graphic image: Brian Silvestro
I’d go 1990-1994 Eclipse GSX. 2.0liter turbo 4cyl, 5-speed, AWD, and it is the best looking generation of that car by a mile. I drove a ragged out ‘94 with the 92hp 1.8, no a/c, no power steering and loved it! Mine was the slowest in my friend group (a 1998 Saab 900 Turbo, 2003 Civic SI, 1999 Mustang GT were the friends), but it handled best of all. The interior also had everything aimed at the driver which made it feel very sporty for 16 year old me. Being older I realize the driving dynamics were stellar.
There aren’t many, but they do float about. Plus, you could go Plymouth Laser or Eagle Talon if needed. Check out this mint version that sold for $15K back in August: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1993-mitsubishi-eclipse-2/
I think Jalopnik still has that stupid article series.
Solstice GXP coupe? People ask top cash for them, but the ones that actually have sold on Cars and Bids come under budget. Early C6 vette?
The thing about roadsters is that they’re noticeably cheaper than their hardtop counterparts due to being considered less practical. Late 90s/early 2000s roadsters like the Boxster, S2K and Z4 have built-in roll hoops that get a pass at many tracks without needing an aftermarket unit and command substantially less than equivalent tin-tops. Even the 987 Boxster is a lot cheaper than its Cayman sibling. A Z4 M-roadster with the E46’s engine and steering rack exists within your budget, though not a perfect example. The Z3 M-roadster does the same to the E36. Of course, you compromise chassis stiffness, and can’t access as many events, as some do require a hard top.
For hardtops, you can’t go wrong with the 924/944 either, they have lots of cheap VW parts, great handling and access to Miata tire sizes. Same applies to E30’s and E36/5 (318ti and Z3 platform). Bimmers and Porsches have unusual lug patterns, but their OEM’s made lots of really cool, lightweight wheels that can be had for cheap.
I’m partial to FWD track cars, and that opens up a whole world of cheap, lightweight cars with ample parts support. Everything from a Mk2 Scirocco 16V with DCOE’s to an SRT4 with a fat turbo, the world is your oyster.
Hell, in your budget you could import a Peugeot 205 GTI, Clio 172 or Alfasud.
FWD coupes are even cheaper than hatchbacks, you can get a Celica GTS or Del Sol Si for a song, leaving lots of budget for upgrades, consumables and events (both track days and road trips).
There’s so much car control and corner strategy that can be refined with a FWD car, and they’re usually not hard or expensive to set up for a rallycross event, meaning you can keep doing motorsports through the Winter.
Personally, knowing what I would avoid in a track car massively narrows down my search. Amateur motorsport to me is all about self-improvement, and the ingredients for that process are consistency and feedback. I wouldn’t consider a car with undefeatable active systems (stability control, auto-blip, brake-vectoring stability or traction aids) because they’re liable to react differently to the same input based on outside variables. I’m not that interested in pulling big drifts, I simply don’t want the car to be compensating for, and therefore enforcing, bad driving habits. I also wouldn’t consider a car with electrically-assisted steering or drive by wire, because those systems muffle feedback and delay inputs, respectively.
After those considerations, I’d aim to minimize cost of brakes/tires, with weight being the main factor, and consider availability of urethane bushings, adjustable control arms and the like.
All in all, my first pick would be a 924/944S (for the better brakes) with a new set of bushings, mounts and bucket seats, maybe a Megasquirt for ease of diagnosis/maintenance over the old Bosch K-Jet system. If budget was tighter, I’d go for a Celica without reservation. Since my use case is commuting with spirited drives when possible and autocross when available, I went with an early Boxster for the comfort and safety of a semi-modern car. Only the 96-99 Boxsters have a cable throttle, and mine doesn’t have the optional traction control, so I feel like I got the best of both worlds with side-impact airbags and heated seats.
It’s staring right at you. BMW 1 series. I would find a 128i with stick shift (kind of rare to be fair).
An 86 is going to be the closest thing to your Miata in terms of performance, albeit with a little more space. The first gen cars have some drawbacks, but coming from the Miata, they should not hold you back.
If you don’t need the rear seats, I’d look hard at Caymans. Even a base 987 Cayman is going to be a big step up from the Miata/86 in terms of balance of road manners and track performance. With more aluminum in their construction, they’ll also be less prone to rust-related issues.
So you want something new, and track ready? Please do this!
https://mksportscarsusa.com/
I want to do it so bad, but can’t afford it right now, and don’t have a place to build it right now either so it’s not in the cards for me yet, but I’m sure you could justify a storage unit or stash it at your parents or something while you build it, and who doesn’t want to build their own car?!
I’ve had 9 Miatas in my life. 8 NAs and 1 NB. I moved from Miatas to a 986 Boxster and now a 996 C4 Cabriolet. I’ve been looking to get out of the 996 and back into a Boxster. Far more comfirtable than a Miata and a blast to drive.
What makes you want to go back to the Boxster? I am in my second Miata and hoping to go to a 996 Cabrio next, so it’s interesting that you prefer the Boxster.
The Boxster is a more engaging drive. The extra power in the 996 is great but it requires more attention to drive hard. For me they were both weekend cars. I don’t think anyone is buying a cabrio 911 for track day work. So canyon carving, I’d rather the Boxster.
That makes sense. I occasionally take kids around so the backseat of the 911 is very appealing. I know it’s tiny, but with the passenger seat moved up a bit the kids can suffer for a few minutes.
As someone who owned an ’04 NB and drove it year round. I can attest that with 4 snow tires on it, it was a blast to drive. It was so fun passing SUV’s on Street tires, in snow storms. I actually prefer an Rear Wheel Drive, with a manual, for winter driving. When you lose traction on the Drive wheels, you can still steer.
You can thank me later.
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I remember when these were $5k in the same condition like 10 years ago 🙁
I remember a few years ago when I was looking for a new car, spotting an Alfa (maybe a GTV? I forget now), that right in the advert said “one of only three in the UK!”.
As if that was a selling point…having no spare parts avaliable until one of the other two breakdown
I’d vote 2016+ Camaro or Mustang with (gasp) a 4-cylinder if running costs are a concern. Both are pretty stout engines, will be a step up in speed, and are bolted to an underrated chassis for track use
When I sold my MX5 (caged, turboed drift car) I replaced it with a 350Z. Faster, and fun, but the limits of grip were much higher, so enjoying the handling meant driving much faster.
I hated the stupid brace in the trunk that stopped me using the huge hatch to actually carry stuff in. Running costs were a massive step up too.
I replaced the 350Z with the GT86 I still have. It’s brilliant. Much slower but more fun. I haven’t tracked it, as that’s what the mk3 MR2/Lotus was for.
I also sort of replaced the 350Z with a BMW E86 Z4 Coupe 3.0. Terrible steering feel, but otherwise an amazing car. That engine is just epic. Running costs were occasionally horrific though. I just replaced that (after a gap of a couple of years to get over the running costs) with the exact same car but the 3.2 M version. Even better engine, and with hydraulic steering it’s pretty much perfect.
350/370Z?
C4/C5/C6 Corvette.
I always thought the answer to everything was Miata. Brian, you have no answer to anything now.
Infiniti Q50.
I hear there will be a customized Cross Cabriolet up for sale soon. It even has that awesome XPEL protective film applied (50%).
The other 50% of the car is admittedly going to be a bit rough, however.
For sheer fun and space at a premium, MINI made a fantastic car for a few years. The 1st gen(r53) new mini cooper s is a blast with lots of aftermarket support, I’d avoid the second gen until post 2010 but those are also fun. So if you’re open to fwd that’s where I’d look personally, I adore mine, and now my daughter wants one desperately, but she’s only 11 so I’ve got time to build her an extra fun one.
Here is how you can kill two birds with one stone. Buy one of David’s Jeeps or his extra truck and mod it for track use. His Chevy would make a perfect sleeper vehicle.
You come in way under budget after mods, he drops his hoard by one and Elise (not her real name) will send you a thank you card.
Have you driven a Golden Era Honda yet? A nice one? Highly suggest getting a ride in one, driving it if possible. They’re some of the most fun cars on earth imho. Just don’t crash lol
Which era is the ‘Golden era’ now?
Generally 88-00 or so. Basically the time period when they almost all had double wishbone suspension.
Dude get a corvette!
I can vouch for this. We went from Miata to Vette and it’s a blast.
RX-8. The perfect NYC car.