After a couple of months of dealing with flaky buyers from Facebook Marketplace, I finally managed to sell my 2003 Mazda MX-5 Miata. I got pretty much what I paid for it, so I’m happy. For the last few days, only one thought has been buzzing through my mind: What should I replace it with?
Ironically, that’s meant even more time on Facebook Marketplace, browsing suggested listings and fighting with the platform’s hopeless search function, which can’t seem to tell the difference between a BMW and a Citroën.
I have yet to really narrow down what I’d like to buy next, so I’m turning to you, the great citizens of Autopia, for help.
Wait, Why’d You Sell The Miata?
I maintain the NB is the best Miata out there, but this one was getting a bit rough. It was a tiny bit more rusty than I liked, and the suspension was getting tired from having to deal with New York City streets all the time. It also didn’t have a roll bar, which means I couldn’t take it to track days like I wanted to.
Yes, I could’ve easily installed a roll bar, but I’d rather put that time and money into something more immediately ready for track use. The Miata also needed brakes and probably a few engine seals redone, and I didn’t have the patience to deal with those things (I get tired of cars quickly, as you can probably tell). I suspect this one wouldn’t have lasted long if it were being driven at 10/10ths for an entire day.
Plus, I have hundreds, if not thousands, of hours behind the wheels of Miatas. I’ve driven four different NAs, three NBs, a couple of NCs, and probably over a dozen NDs over the past decade alone. So I’m looking for something different.
How’d You Make Out?
Pretty okay, all things considered. I bought the car in the summer of 2024 from a guy offloading their small collection of sports cars in Long Island, New York for $5,000. Before he owned it, the car spent a bunch of time in Connecticut, according to the CarFax. Despite its Northeastern origins, it wasn’t terribly rusty underneath—the only concerning area was the right side rocker, right in front of the rear wheel. But that’s pretty standard for NAs and NBs, so I didn’t stress much.
I bought the car with just over 193,000 miles on the clock, and sold it with around 197,000 miles. Considering I work from home, that’s about what I expected from a year (plus a few months) of ownership. The car mostly sat in a parking spot in Brooklyn, but I did have a few memorable drives with it, including the above photo last summer, and a rip through a snowstorm back in January, when I had the wheels wrapped in studded winter tires (overkill for these conditions, I know. But it was fun.)
If you’re mad at me for not driving this Miata enough, I get it. You’ll be happy to know the new owner, who paid me $4,900 for the car, is planning to use it as a daily driver. So it’ll get driven. There’s plenty of life left in this car, and if I had the money (and space) to keep it and get something new, I would. But I’m losing my cherished parking spot, so space is a bit limited right now.
So What’s Next?
That’s the thing: I’m not sure. I’ve driven a lot of cars, so I know what makes me happy. But a lot of cars make me happy, so that doesn’t really narrow it down.
Here are some baseline requirements: I’d like to spend $10,000 to $15,000, but I’ll push the budget to $20,000 if something really piques my interest. Because I already have a daily driver/beater /winter car in my 2008 Range Rover, I don’t need anything remotely practical or spacious. Ideally, I’d be buying a sporty sedan or purpose-built sports car.
But that doesn’t mean I want some stripped-out drift machine. I’d like something with working air conditioning and a stereo, since I love doing road trips, and doing one without either of those features seems hellish. I also like going to track days, so ideally, the car will be well-suited for high-performance driving without needing significant modifications or repair. Because most race tracks have a policy that requires rollover protection, most convertibles are out, unless they have a qualifying rollbar installed.
Cars like the first-gen BRZ/86 twins are near the top of my list, as are older BMW M cars like the E36-generation M3. I’d also consider something bigger, like an M5. Sure, I’ve owned a couple of M5s before, but I’d happily own another one. I’m not opposed to an older Porsche Boxster, either, though I’ve driven a few of those cars and owned one in the past, so it’d have to be a pretty good deal to consider. The same goes for cars like the Fiesta ST or the Honda S2000—both great cars that can be had for very cheap, but for me, it’s been there, done that.
I’m sure there are plenty of other cars I’m not thinking of. So I’d like to know what you think. The more interesting, the better.
Top graphic image: Brian Silvestro
Outside the box, likes road trips, works for the Autopian.
Here is one that will check all of those boxes.
How about a vehicle that has proven it can go the distance by driving across the country? One that attracts plenty of attention on the interstate. Has questionable modifications. I’m sure David and Jason would love to see this vehicle at a track day.
What you need is a Nissan NV-200 former taxi cab with a functional taxi meter.
You live in Manhattan – and you’re an auto-writer.
My other auto-writer friend who lives in Manhattan keeps his cars at his upstate vacation house – and never drives it into the City.
When he does drive from Manhattan – it’s a Presser.
You don’t need a car.
Idk if it counts as interesting… but at that price, in that part of the world, with those activities I’d probably try and find a not-wrecked sti hatchback. I have a suspicion the last years of the sti hatch will hold value, but I’m also often wrong about reading the market about such things.
Crown victoria
I’m gonna make a pretty out-there suggestion for you. How about you help your boss out and buy his new-from-ebay flat fender Jeep when it’s done? Add a cage and do the really slow-car-fast thing at a track. Plus, you could use it for serious off roading! And if you street parked it, who in their right mind would steal it?
And you would be doing the big guy a solid in helping him thin his herd. Brownie points!!
Well, there are a bunch of cars that will fit the bill as the comments so far have suggested. BUT – you aren’t just some Joe-blow getting a car for some weekend fun. You are a writer for the greatest car website on the planet and you have a duty to all your readers who need to live vicariously through you to make a proper fuckin’ adventure out of this!!! Take a page from David Tracy – go find yourself an old Cayman with a blown engine and swap in the biggest 911 motor you can find and make yourself a true beast for the track. We’ll all be cheering you on the whole way.
15-20K seems like a lot to spend on a car that will most likely languish in a parking lot many miles from where you live. NYC seems like a truly awful place to be a car enthusiast.
I mean, sub-$20k still buys a lot of 996.
Can’t wait for you to settle on a slightly different Miata with less issues after realising nothing else quite fills the void.
As I know you know (because I was at a track day with you many many moons ago at NYST) the Toyoburu twins aren’t blisteringly fast compared to a Fiesta ST or Miata. But the FRS was a dependable steed for me for 9 years, including 9 western NY winters. They are pretty great in the snow – limited slip + traction and stability control add up to a good package. And they are certainly more practical than a Miata. It really felt like a car that I could drive another 9 years without ever being concerned about a major issue. Other than brakes and tires the only thing it ever needed was a front wheel bearing at 90k.
My next sports car will probably be a Miata because I want a convertible in my life, but I don’t think you can go wrong with a Toyoburu that was well cared for (again probably drive it a few years with minimal depreciation).
I had a ’14 BRZ that someone added a turbo plus IPR short shifter and fairly open exhaust, man that thing was fun. The only thing that would get me to change was a GR Corolla, and that finally happened last summer.
I mean, they say it’s Always The Answer… another one in better shape? Already prepped? (I had a super cheap ’90 1.6 for a year or two, took the sting out of 2020 a bit. But it had very cheap coilovers and a bit rougher than I liked so it got moved to a new owner.)
I mean Toyota and Honda’s are all over NYC and finding parts for them is easier. But of course there are a ton of BMW’s everywhere as well. You have plenty of options, it’ll just be finding a “good” option. Plus parking and all that.
Was Thomas’ post a response to this one?
How VW Brake Pads And Mazda RX-8 Cabin Filters Make An Aston Martin V8 Vantage Surprisingly Cheap To Own – The Autopian
These are probably either too expensive or too clapped out, but does a Focus RS fit the budget? Can’t say I have any first hand experience with them as far as reliability or maintainability, but I’ve always been intrigued by them.
I thought about this, but examples I’d want to own (cars that aren’t clapped out) are too expensive to justify.
I do own an FR-S, I do also like it. It’s quick, fun, and more practical than you might expect. It has a decent little trunk, and a vestigal backseat that easily folds for bigger cargo. Mileage is fine, but Subaru meh, but 200hp in a car that size is more than enough for modern traffic. With winter tires it does fine in the snow.
The standard seats are heavily bolstered and a bit narrow, especially in the shoulders. keep that in mind when shopping. The BRZ Premium leather seats might be better. The FA20 did have issues early on and some of the ones that were fixed then clogged their oil galleries with silicone, but I think any by now would be alright. The cam phasing equipment does depend on good oil flow, so use the right oil and factory oil filters. Also watch out for anything clutch related. It’s a difficult, time consuming job to get in there.
That said mine has been reliable for about 5 years. I recommend you give the Freesbreeze a look and see if it’s for you.
86 GT owner here, the premium seats are much nicer. 17-20 86/brz’s fixed most of the issues from the earlier cars, and would be my recommendation, but as long as it’s been well-kept and had the valve spring recall done if it’s a ’13, I wouldn’t consider it to be any more of a risky purchase than a Miata.
If they have documentation of the recall work, it’s something worth reviewing. When my ’13 went for the recall work, i had about 70k miles and had them do the spark plugs while the engine was dropped (the dealer only charged me for the parts). I think a lot of people push that service off because it’s a pain to do at home. Felt pretty good to get the plugs done for free plus a free oil change and coolant flush out of it.
Mine’s a ’16, so the seats are tight. Good to know the later seats are better, might someday take a look at getting some.
Boxer or cayman seem like the answer but maybe a cl63 amg. They tend to get overlooked and have massive depreciation.
CL63 fits price wise, but it’s a huge, heavy vehicle, which means it’d probably be bad for track work
I did the “Track Night in America” thing a few years back at Atlanta Motorsports Park. In my group was a CL63 and a Challenger Demon something or other.
Both of them experienced near brake failure due to the weight and heavy braking. The Demon spun out on a tricky hill-crest/hairpin-turn combo and the CL63 almost bit the wall.
I have no experience with them but in my limited observation, I think you’re right on this one.
I’d recommend an early model Cayman over the Boxster unless you really want another drop top for the summer.
American sports/pony/muscle cars are pretty seriously underrepped in the writers’ stables; it would be fun to have more of those written about.
GREAT point! Also easier to get into serious track performance land with the stated budget.
I wouldn’t be opposed to a cheap C5—if I could find one for under $10k I would
https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicle/760781419?endYear=2004&makeCode=CHEV&maxPrice=20000&modelCode=CORV&numRecords=25&searchRadius=100&sortBy=relevance&startYear=1997&transmissionCode=MAN&zip=10002
It’s not under $10K but just a bit over your $15K target.
I see a lot of eco boost Mustangs and V6 Camaros in the preferred range but to get a proper V8 in these (or the Challenger as well) you have to go into the stretch budget.
I agree that type of variety would be good to read about. Not sure if Brian finds those options compelling enough to stretch the budget. Although reading about the lesser engine and what you lose and gain from that experience might also be good reads so… maybe? I wouldn’t want it without the V8 but he is used to a Miata.
370z? Manual, sub 5 seconds to 60, easy to wrench on, plentiful and cheap parts, pretty reliable.
Not the prettiest car and I know they get a lot of hate around here for being old, but you can find them right in your budget with 100-125k miles. Throw an oil cooler and some better pads on and it should be fine for some HPDE action.
I think you should update your bio.
The E90 is a great car, and available with a stick. A Cooper S is also a fun car that’s sometimes a little undervalued.
I’d consider an E90, they’ve gotten very cheap for what’s just a nice modern RWD sedan