Tomorrow I’m heading to Longview, Washington to pick up a bunch of amazing parts I bought on eBay for my WWII Jeep project. Those parts — four axles, a transmission, a transfer case and maybe an engine — are not going to be lightweight, putting my new 1992 Jeep Comanche through its toughest test yet. Here’s a look at the trip ahead, and my thoughts on how well the Comanche will handle the job.
I had been going back and forth on whether to install new leaf springs on my Jeep Comanche in preparation for this trip. On one hand, I have no idea how old the current springs are, and my research showed that the standard replacement leaf springs from Dorman are known to offer a bit more ride height and stiffness, so they should be able to handle a bit more load.
But my current springs seem fine. The ride quality is great, and the ride height is pretty much within factory spec, which is 9.2-inches +/- 1/2-inch between the axle tube and frame. Why swap out my springs for less comfortable, stiffer ones just for a single trip? I do plan to haul things regularly, but rarely more than 1,000 pounds.
Speaking of, here’s my estimate of how much my Comanche will be hauling this week on my 2,000 mile round-trip:
- Axles: 150 pounds x 4
- Transmission: 70 pounds
- Transfer case: 80 pounds
- Engine: 400 pounds
- TOTAL: 1,150 pounds
I’ll probably buy another 200 pounds worth of stuff when I’m up there, if I had to guess, bringing me to 1,350 pounds.
My truck’s payload rating is 1450 pounds, and the sticker on the door pretty much echoes that. I have never loaded this truck with that much weight, but I did load it with 800 pounds — all at the very rear of the truck — and it still had some space for jounce (though the angle of this photo makes it seem like less room than in reality):
The springs are on the softer side, which I like for daily driving, but that could cause some sagging during this trip (i.e. I might bottom out on the bump stops). If I had more time, I might look into an airbag system, or maybe I’d just install the leaf springs I have sitting here. But alas, I know the current leaf spring’s bushing sleeves are seized in place, and swapping these springs out is going to be a nightmare requiring a Sawzall. Plus, again, I quite like these springs; the ride is great, unladen.
And so I have decided to explore something… a little different. They’re called air shocks, and while the engineer in me doesn’t love the idea of them, I think they’re going to work just fine for this application.
Having gained notoriety in the 1970s in the vintage American car scene, air shocks (these are called Gabriel Hi-Jackers) basically act as both an air spring and a damper, with the former helping the leaf springs lift up the rear of the vehicle. The reason why air springs seem like a compromise is that they require the shock mounts to do something for which they were not designed: carry a sustained load (i.e. support the vehicle instead of just taking shock loads).
View this post on Instagram
But half a century worth of testimonials seem really positive for what I’m doing here, which is only supporting a small portion of my load solely to keep my axle off the bump stops. We’ll see how it works out; I will load the truck up, drive around, and see if I like the ride. If all feels good, I’ll proceed, and if not, I’ll just grab a U-Haul trailer. I have options.
In any case, I’m excited to see what this little MJ can do, and I’m excited to pick up this amazing treasure trove of Jeep parts so I can really get this eBay WWII Jeep project under way next week; I am flying in the WWII Jeep king himself, my old Jeep-engineering buddy Brandon. Things are about to get crazy.
P.S. If you’re in the Portland area and want to hang out tonight, email me at david@theautopian.com!
[Ed note: David mentioned the idea of building a brand new WWII Jeep to the team at eBay, and they loved the idea so much they said, “How can we help?” Their support and David’s Jeep-obsession are the fuel behind this crazy build. – MH]
I wouldn’t be concerned. My Comanche is nearly identical in configuration in terms of suspension to yours other than I have a short bed. I recently drove 400 miles across Pennsylvania with a bed full of stuff in my Comanche and the suspension handled it fine, probably a similar load including a wood chipper, large air compressor and a few heavy boxes of stuff. The springs are original at 277k miles on the odometer.
I should note that mine is a 90 Eliminator with a Dana 44 rear axle.
Also the AX-15 transmission is much more satisfying to shift with a heavy load behind you. It smooths out.
It really does! Not as sloppy as normal.
Would be curious to see the math on spending 31 hours in the jeep to create content vs paying someone to pack and freight the parts. Enjoy the schlep!
Donny, please.
Do you expect enough sag to affect headlight aiming? No need to go squirrel-hunting on the way home!
I sure hope he loads the heavy stuff as close to the front of the bed as possible.
My 1979 El Camino came from the factory with air shocks to help level the load when you put weight in the bed. I don’t haul a lot of weight in mine, but I do use the air shocks to adjust the stance if I do have any weight back there.
I drove it on a 5-day, 1200+ mile round trip to Nappanee, IN this past summer (Elcofest!) with the spare tire, 3 coolers, 2 tool boxes, 2 suitcases, 4 lawn chairs, two side tables, a floor jack, a metal milk crate full of supplies, and a 5-gallon bucket full of cleaning products.
The air shocks worked just fine.
Air shocks were available from the factory on the first El Camino and it wouldn’t surprise me if that predates the aftermarket ones.
I was thinking to myself, “Why doesn’t he just throw some air shocks on there?*
Then I got to the part where you put air shocks on there. I think it’ll be fine.
My 2005 Suburban with the AutoRide thingy had a built in compressor and air shocks. UF it passed sway 130,000 miles into its 200,000+ mile journey but when it worked it was sweet AF. 6 kegs in the back? No problemo! Way overloaded landscape trailer (‘71 caddy)? Bring it on! 1100 lbs of brake rotors from the shop that’s closing? We got you!
The ‘24 Tundra just has a little dial by the dash light little dial that aims the headlights downward. I keep it at 1.5 cause folks hate those LED low beams.
Both systems work. The Chevy would have been appropo on a 2500 or larger chassis but it was neat while it lasted
1100 pounds of rotors?!
Yeah, I feel like we need to know more.
Couldn’t pass these up, honey. I can’t imagine a day when we’ll see rotors for less than $2 per pound!
I pay about that much for brand new rotors for both of my vehicles.
Generally about a 2 dollars per pound in $CAD.
I’m sure prices will go up over time though, and if you buy all of the vehicles that fit those rotors, we’re talking reasonably priced brake jobs for life!
Its too bad these didn’t come up a few weeks earlier and you could have picked up the Comanche, and these parts in one trip with a minor detour.
I know :/
I can’t tell if you are going through my old stomping grounds in Eureka Ca. Great area if so there is an old lumber camp kitchen serving a great home style buffet on Woodley island
I doubt he would go the coastal route unless I5 is closed due to snow.
I couldn’t tell without the roads and towns listed
He would like Eureka I think. Lots of interesting cars driving around, a cool downtown, and if you’re ‘lucky’ you may get to experience a tweakening from one of the colorful locals.
Well you have to hit Arcata for that. Plenty of VEs for Torch there. Not a fan of the Vegan buffets
Yeah, in some ways, the car scene in Humboldt is akin to Cuba’s.
Samoa Cookhouse?
Yes I couldn’t remember it has been awhile
Samoa Cookhouse for the win! (Eureka native here).
I used to work for the Eureka Times Standard and hung out at a little bar near the coast and loved the Shark pale ale. Do they still have it?
I used to work the Times-Standard too (delivered newspapers back in jr. high).
Maybe you’re thinking of the Lost Coast Brewery and its Great White?
Many decades ago I helped my Dad put air shocks on the families 68 Chevelle wagon. The guy at the local Grand Auto said the most common failure was when people run the air lines too close to the exhaust and the material fatigues from heat. We were careful about that and those were on the car trouble free for at least 10 years.
Another thing you may already know, but if your 92 doesn’t have cruise control, you just need a GM turn signal stalk and the cruise actuator under the hood. All the wiring is already present. I slapped cruise on my ’92 in 30 minutes and went on an 800 mile round trip last year, a great add for under $100.
I gotta do that!
Unless you’re subject to DOT inspection or scales (and you’re not) GVWR is merely a suggestion. Any good Jeep engineer would know there’s a safety factor built in to GVW ratings 🙂
I always find it amusing when Internet weenies, engineers, or engineers who are also Internet weenies go on about exact payload ratings.
Load the thing up and drive it slowly and carefully.
…. and then sue the manufacturer if it fails and you get hurt.
Nope, your own damned fault if you do something stupid. And if you drive slowly and carefully it won’t fail, and you won’t get hurt.
Yet people routinely sue and win. (Which is why new lawn mowers have warning to not attempt to stop the spinning blade with a hand or use them to trim hedges)
There is a disconnect between the reality of how things are and how they should be.
People don’t win nearly as often as you think they do – you never hear about the myriad losers, or people who’s suits get bounced before they ever go in front of a judge and jury.
Tell that to the product liability lawyers at every company I’ve worked or the judges / juries in really bad cases I’ve actually seen my employers lose.
David, if you haven’t previously done Comanche rear shocks (maybe you have), be very careful torquing the upper mount. It’s a threaded stud sticking out of a larger-diameter smooth stud where the actual upper bushing seats. I attempted torquing the nut to spec and it yanked the threaded stud right off the end. Had to cut the head off a bolt and weld it back on there, major PITA.
From that point on, I go snug on the nut and check it periodically. At the end of the day it’s just ensuring the top of the shock doesn’t slide off to the side, so it’s not carrying a ton of load.
Stop off on your way back and I’ll take you to lunch at one of several restaurants that literally have your name on them. Hell, the whole town does.
Did you mean: Rustaurants? 😉
I had a pair of HiJackers on my 1978 Ford F100 truck, and they were great. Pump them up to move cross-country. Let the air back out to drive around Manhattan with a mostly empty bed.
Just throw 6 or 7 Type 1 manhole covers back there to simulate the load. I used to do that to help traction while plowing.
Of course, I used old lids that were left in the weeds out behind the PW yard. Using lids from an LA neighborhood could result in jail and lawsuits.
“Could” being the operative word…
How about a trailer?
How about a WWII American Bantam Car Company. BT3 Amphibious Jeep trailer?
That would carry an extra 500 pounds.
http://bantamt3c.com/images/hubbard/pages/Bantam2.html
How about a Free WWII Bantam Car Co. Jeep trailer?
How about one that’s parked a mile off of I-5?
It’s still on the original 1945 tires, they hold air, but I wouldn’t go further than the tire store with them. They were on the trailer when it was delivered on May 5, 1945.
Anyway, I’m moving, and the trailer is yours if you want it, although maybe I’ll take it to NY behind the Prius if you don’t want it.
This is the right answer
David, this is the Way
Toss it on ebay for $1 and send David the listing!
Seems like the perfect job for a 1989 Chevy K1500 pickup with a 6.5-foot bed.
You expect logic and reason from David? David Tracy?
Logic and reason do not make good blogging content.
Or a brand new Silverado/Ram 1500/F150 from a manufacturer’s press fleet. Especially if he can fly to Portland, pick it up there and drive one-way back to LA.
Sorry I missed that. Yes. But we all must respect his commitment to the bit. The stories surrounding hauling a bunch of shit in a rust free example of one of The General’s very best doesn’t have the sizzle of the Jeep on Jeep angle.
It’s not about the story. It’s just about keeping the truck I like most.
Did you actually sell the Chevy?
Maybe, payload is about the same, and it would be less efficient on gas. Everyone seems to think the bigger truck is “better” for this but I just don’t see it, the Comanche is well within it’s limits
Payload on the Chevy is about 400 lbs more and David said right here he is planning to exceed the GVWR of the Comanche. Just his planned cargo consumes all but 50 lbs of the rating.
IIRC, in a previous article he said the Comanche actually has A slightly higher load rating (and better gas mileage).
Send it. How hard can it be?
What about airbags between the axle and frame? That seems like it would offer a decent compromise. IDK much about solid axle vehicles, only the air helper springs for coil springs. Those have been excellent on a few vehicles for maintaining ride height.
He addressed that:
Ahh, my bad.
No worries – stuff happens 🙂
Just pick up some cheap aftermarket spoiler from a high school kid up there, and bolt it to the tailgate upside down to give some lift and relieve the suspension…
Finally! Someone around here is making some good ol’ fashioned Autopian sense!
Excellent idea! If the ride is rough or the suspension bottoms out, hit the gas for more speed and lift.
Air shocks are the perfect solution to your problem, and one that I think more new pickups should utilize to optimize the tradeoff between load capacity and aerodynamics/fuel efficiency. AFAIK only the RAM 1500 runs air in the back to maintain an even ride height independent of load. All the other OE’s 2WD trucks stick their rear bumper way up in the air unladen. I prefer the looks of even ride height front to rear, and improved ride and fuel economy are welcome, too.
EDIT: also wanted to mention that these have zero chance of bending or over-stressing your shock mounts, as I think I saw mentioned in a comment or two below. Shock mounts carry basically *all* the suspension load instantaneously over a sharp bump, so I can’t imagine carrying a bit of the sustained static load will be noticed at all, either from a peak load or fatigue cycle perspective.
They certainly work beautifully on my Mercedes wagon. Though the hydropneumatic setup on older Mercedes wagons rode better. Dead level no matter the load – and I have loaded the hell out of all of them.
I love the air suspension on my Touareg – perfectly level while towing…
Air suspension is *brilliant* – but TANSTAAFL. That added capability comes with a cost, both upfront and down the road.
Having owned a Range Rover with air suspension, I would cheerfully pay the maintenance price to keep it working. Same with my Mercedes. Thankfully neither has the electronic strut nonsense that costs thousands a corner when it fails.
My Olds had air shocks on it when I first bought it back in 1995 and I giggled like an idiot when I saw there was air valve in the rear bumper that I could stick an air hose on and watch the back of my car lift up. It was the coolest thing ever until they failed at the worst possible time. I had graduated college and had to drive this thing all the way from Blacksburg to Virginia Beach. Halfway through the trip I started hearing the wheel wells scraping my tires. I stopped off at the nearest shop and the easiest fix we had to get me back on the road was to put spring spacers in the springs to stiffen them up, effectively ending any hint of rear suspension that I had. It got me home and I replaced the air shocks with something more stock.
Thankfully, you got new ones, so you shouldn’t have a problem, ’cause spacers aren’t gonna help with leaf springs.
Presuming you compress the scales to the tune of a buck-fifty, you will be right at the rated payload capacity (driver weight always included). It will be fine, that’s what it’s built for. I fear the hi-jackers will just make the ride harsh and bend the shock mounts.
David’s fairly tall, I’d guess $175.
Same as in town?
I’m 5′ 10″ and he’s shorter than I am. But he’s ripped, so I’d still guess at least $175. But it doesn’t matter. I’ve doubled the GVWR of a vehicle before. Is that safe? Eh, probably not. But going a bit over doesn’t matter.
I’m glad you added the air shocks to help the springs because you forgot to add in the payload your weight. (200 lbs?), the weight of any tools or recovery gear already in the truck, and bags of “chips” along with tubs of hummus to eat long the way.
Ok, David’s not THAT tall.
It’s the camera. It adds ten inches to his height.
Dang, swing by Albany, OR on your way up and pickup a rear bumper off of marketplace for me will ya? The one on my Comanche suuuuper messed up and I don’t want to spend a couple hundos for a new one lol. I’m honestly surprised you didn’t go with General Springs and some 3/2 1700lb leaf springs instead of the 3/1 1280s. Ride quality unloaded should be the same, you just get less squat and better stability under load with double the overload spring capacity.
Are you making an 8WD jeep? Why do you need four axles? Also, what’s with the extra engine? Doesn’t this project already have a brand new engine?
I mean, have fun on the trip – just curious about the extra parts hoarding?
It’s David, so the answer is always yes.
As Butthead the wise likes to say, “Huh-huh. Go for it dude.”