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I’ve been putting off some electrical diagnosis on the RX-7; there is a drain on the battery that is probably coming from the aftermarket alarm (added primarily for key-fob door locks), and a 1-2V drop at the instrument cluster, ECU, and the rest of the interior vs the engine bay. This second one only seems to appear when the engine is running, making it harder to diagnose in a closed garage in the middle of MI winter, so I’ve been putting off diving into the electrical system in general.
The Civic has a small list of things to do, starting with:
Charge the battery, she’s dead Jim.
Install the Crossovers for the component speakers I installed a year and a half ago.
Replace the fabric on the passenger rear door card, so it matches the other three I already did (ran out of time on that project when I started it)
Install the backup camera, while I’ve got the radio out make the radio antenna to stay in the radio and replace the lights for the HVAC control knobs as they are all dead.
One little job left, it’ll need a clutch soon, should be a quick two hour job (I wish)
I just bought a 1964 International Travelall last weekend, and it needs….a lot. It will crank but not fire, so I’ve got to sort that issue out first. Then there is the issue of missing brakes—there are no lines to the rear at all. Getting it running and moving will make the rest much easier. I’ve got a workday planned for next weekend with my local IH friends, and between the five of us I’m confident we can diagnose the problems.
Then it’s on to the cosmetics; it’s been sitting outside for years so it needs some surface rust abatement, weatherstripping, etc. etc.
All I have to do is press in new small end bearings into my con rod, then finish rebuilding the engine, the carb, the fuel pump, the generator, the starter, and the entire gear box.
Always plenty of “little things” on the ’65 American… Brake adjustments, carb tuning, transmission pan leak. Hoping for an early spring day soon to get started again.
I finally fixed my biggest “little thing” this past weekend: my truck’s intermittently-faulty taillights. I had to replace the printed circuit boards with bulb sockets on them with traditional individual sockets to make them work, but it worked, and I have two working taillights and two working brake lights again. I only did the left side; the right side still works for now, but I’ll probably have to do the same thing to that side eventually.
My 04 Cayenne now has a fault for the crank position sensor, which prevents it starting, which seems to be a rather important step towards driving. Cheap replacement sensor and cable, and a devilishly difficult job to actually swap it out….
I have a ’77 corvette named Yvette after the maid in Clue (Sexy, curvy, drinks a lot, might kill the cook) updated with a Summit 350 crate, 700r4 tranny, C5 seats, electric pop up lights, and a bunch of other stuff but, as you say, there is always another detail besides the possiblity of another 46 year old part bouncing down the freeway unassisted. First there is a T Top leak which should surprise exactly nobody, second is the handbrake doesn’t work. I suspect the previous owner actually replaced all the parts (the cable looks brand new) but didn’t install it correctly or never bothered to adjust it, given that you pull the lever all the way up and achieve exactly zero stoppage and that the cable is resting against the frame. This is the same person that installed the electric fuel pump in the passenger side glovebox (really not kidding) so I suspect he put in a cable and called it good hoping the Wrenching Elves would appear in the night reeking of PB Blast and Benadryl and make it all better. But, as they say, brakes are a problem for future me.
Need to finish the stereo install in my car. Have a new Alpine with wireless carplay but only got it half installed before snow kept me from finishing it out. It is working radio and streaming bluetooth, but not carplay (need to setup antenna), phone (need to wire up mic) and for some reason the controller for the in car electronics isn’t doing it’s job so some things aren’t working like my rear camera and steering wheel controls. Life has been busy on the nice days lately. just need consistent warm days…
Well having just purchased a 1978 Fiat 124 spider everything not even a list yet
My ratty little Nissan pickup has a miss at off-idle, high miles and enough things that should properly be fixed that I’ve been browsing CraigsList for a nicer example.
Or I get to learn how to replace:
– ball joints
– A/C compressor
– harmonic balancer
– power steering hoses
– knock sensor
– water pump (while I’m in there)
Used to be I was all into wrenching this stuff in the driveway, but the pain:fun ratio has shifted significantly over the past few decades.
I felt that…
Rebuilt the entire suspension of my 996 over the winter. It’s now drivable, and it’s great! But I have new braided brake lines to put on, but I just can’t bring myself to take the wheels of again while there’s beautiful weather to drive in.
I am taking the FC to RADwood next weekend and have several little things that will all need to be done this weekend:
Swap out the front brake calipers and bleed the brakes
Replace the front wheel bearings (which requires careful notching of the hub as Mazda gave you no way to drive the outer race out)
Adjust the idle
Fix a rattle on the dashboard
Get the lower radiator hose to stop leaking, this is likely being caused by an aftermarket part that is causing some interference issues
From what I remember, its not difficult to get the hub notched since the hub itself is Al. Count on needing to re-tighten the front wheel bearings after getting them installed though – I’ve never been able to get them just right the first time, especially with new bearings just pressed in.
Good luck with the dashboard and the brittle, creaky mess that all the trim plastics have become over time!
Well right now the two biggest small issues I need to fix are my doors and replace the 1/4 window on the XJ. I had to smash out the window after trying to break in and trashing all the 30 year old plastic clips in both doors. Now the passenger side doesn’t lock or unlock from the outside and the drivers door only opens from the out side. Single digit temps with a cardboard window with 20mph wind gusts sucks, but thankfully I fixed the heat last week.
I need to get the tach on my ‘74 Javelin working. Yes, it has the infamous 360! Along with the backup lights. And the dome light. Also need to replace the PRNDL and shield on the shifter. Probably needs a carb rebuild, too. Lots of fun to be had.
Always loved the Javelin, just something about them that separated it from the rest of that gen. Good luck.
I need to get the tach on my ‘74 Javelin working. Yes, it has the infamous 360! Along with the backup lights. And the dome light. Also need to replace the PRNDL and shield on the shifter. Probably needs a carb rebuild, too. Lots of fun to be had.
My ‘82 2CV is currently in pretty good shape. I did a complete carb rebuild, installed an electronic ignition, and replaced the coil in September. My next project will be to replace the turn signal stalk and see if I can find upgrades for the instrument cluster lights.
What’s the usual time it takes to moderate comments?
For what it’s worth, happens to me a fair amount too (I saw your other comment). Usually I see mine get through in an hour or two or so.
Though it’s gotten much faster now that I’ve stopped offering my thoughts on how to make $$$$ (that’s 4, so you know, big bucks) working from home using the internet or one crazy trick….
I’m about to tackle round 2 of getting my father’s Porsche 993 roadworthy again soon, and aside from my oil filter issue (thanks to some pointers from Rootwrym, I now know what I need to do there), I need to replace the broken gearing in the odometer.
It’s old but new enough that Porsche used basic plastic for these things. So of course they’ve degraded and teeth have broken off.
Apparently, it’s not too difficult to do, but there’s no way to know which replacement gears you need – how many teeth – until you get the old ones out and count. I’m going to be moving really slowly and carefully on this one…like with Operation, it takes a steaaaady hand.
Well, I have mold in a car again! This time, it wasn’t the Smart. Instead, my Passat TDI wagon decided that having clear sunroof drains was too much work. I had it parked for the winter (don’t want the rust to get any worse) and checked on it a couple of days ago. A very small patch has started on the carpet in the back seat.
It’ll be a quick fix this early on in development, but come on! It might be worth getting some desiccant bags for any VW product that has a sunroof and is stored outside.
Is there a DIY vinyl wrap you can apply to the roof as a temporary measure?
It wouldn’t have to look perfect as long as it kept water out.
Don’t know that I’d go with a vinyl wrap, I might grab something like this sized to fit the whole opening. Reusable every winter.
https://wholesalemagneticsigns.com/collections/blank-magnetic-signs/products/magnetic-sign-blank-for-truck-doors-24×18
I like the idea (and use that type of material to make motorcycle tank emblems) but I don’t think it will conform to the concatenary curve of the roof.
OTOH even if it does wave a little bit at the outside edges, it should still keep water away from the sunroof. Good idea!
Gave you a thumb just for using ‘concatenary’ in an actual conversation.
Admit it; you’ve been just waiting for it, haven’t you?
I might just give it a car cover for winter storage like a normal domesticated car enthusiast. I mean, Passat drain leaks are a known thing in the VW world, I just thought this car’s fat stack of service history (which includes drain cleanings!) meant that it was above that.
It was not. lol A quick inspection suggests that some leaves and other crap blew their way in.
The DD (the black Jaaag at the Leaving-Detroit party) is just waiting for the Autopian grille badge to arrive, and we have it on good authority they should be shipped soon. 🙂
No, the wrenching will be on the bikes. The GPz550 is getting a set of practically new Keihin CR26s and needs front and rear brake rebuilds. And tires. And proper clip-ons instead of the clubman bars that I put on there *mumble* years ago.
The first task probably should be removing the 1980s vintage 4-into-1 exhaust that was on the bike at purchase. The PO or installer cranked the exhaust nuts down A LOT, bending the plates that go over the exhaust studs as well as the studs themselves. 😐 The goal will be to straighten them (gently!) and then take the exhaust to the coating shop to be media blasted and get a nice coat of ceramic satin black.
The other project bike has been deprioritized a bit: I want to get *something* running and the 550 is much closer. At least the engine is in the frame…
The GPz550 is just the perfect size and very nice to work on. Those roundslides sound sweet!
Thanks! They came with K&N pods so all I need now is a set of intake boots – and some time. 🙂
I need to get the tach on my ‘74 Javelin working. Yes, it has the infamous 360! Along with the backup lights. And the dome light. Also need to replace the PRNDL and shield on the shifter. Probably needs a carb rebuild, too. Lots of fun to be had.
My ‘82 2CV is currently in pretty good shape. I did a complete carb rebuild, installed an electronic ignition, and replaced the coil in September. My next project will be to replace the turn signal stalk and see if I can find upgrades for the instrument cluster lights.
Well, I spent the weekend with a group of friends swapping the engine in the truck. (pics are out of order https://imgur.com/a/mhML7Yv)
We got the engine “in” and found out that the transmission mount bolt holes were completely stripped. So I need to tap those holes and go with bigger bolts, or install inserts. I also need to finish installing the engine.
Gonna be a bit of a pain, but you gotta do it.
Tapping holes is a hugggeeee pain!
It’s not even the process, it’s just the stress associated with possibly screwing it up! (pun intended!).
Agreed. The engine I rebuilt, the previous owner ran it on straight water, one of the water pump holes rusted out. Had to drill and tap that. Not a fan.
For some dumbass reason I ended up doing that once I got it back from the machine shop instead of beforehand. Don’t ask me why.
A “new” tailshaft housing for the transmission is ~$100, which I don’t want to spend, but might not be the worst way to go about it as the bushing in the back of the housing and the seal are at least 200k miles old.
I broke a tap when I was a kid and can still hear the sound…
Go with the inserts. Much better solution. The designers picked the thread used for a reason. Going to a bigger thread means higher torque to prevent loosening. The higher torque comes with much higher clamping (tension) force, which in turn may pull your freshly tapped threads out.
Fair point
A Ford 6? Definitely a connoisseur’s choice.
I’ve put over a quarter million miles on her. Closer to 300k, probably.
She’s a good truck.
Sounds like a “Tap or Die” sort of situation…
Since you need new shocks anyway how about air shocks for the rear? I did it for saggy leafs years ago and was very pleased that I could level the ride whenever I tossed something heavy into the trunk. Is it wrong to assume that you might do that occasionally?
Not at all wrong. I should price some out.
Might as well also price out a full suspension rebuild from one of the Mustang supply houses. I’ve mentioned I like National Parts Depot, right?
There’s a local Mustang shop like…5 minutes from work. “Mustangs, Etc.” I think it’s called.
Yeah, I’d bet they are as plentiful out there as shops selling cuban sammiches are in Tampa. Shopping local is always a good thing
Just stay away from CJ Pony Parts, never had good results with them.
For parts, I’ve had decent experiences with American Muscle (out of PA I think).
I never had a problem with CJ Pony Parts myself. Ordered more than a few things for the 65 Mustang I just sold…
Its extremely hit or miss with them. I’ve had good experiences and I’ve had absolutely horrible experiences.
They balance out, but why would I want that when I can go with a shop/store that I’ve never had bad experiences with?
I was about to comment that now that you are in LA, you need to find one of those hole-in-the-wall mechanic shops that legends tell us of.
My 94 Toyota Pickup (V6 5MT 4WD) has an electrical gremlin that makes the whole car shut off for a second if I turn the blinker on when the lights and AC/Heat are on. When I say whole car I mean all of the lights, gauges, engine, etc. It has now gotten worse to the point it’ll regularly shut off entirely below 5 MPH if I turn the blinker on when the lights and AC/Heat are on, and above 5 MPH it’ll shut off for a few seconds then turn back on when the lights and AC/Heat are on.
I had an auto shop check it out a while back and they said all the grounds were good, the alternator was good, and that it was just a bad battery. 2 years later after putting in the biggest, most expensive AGM battery with the most cold cranking amps I could get from Batteries Plus in my Truck and the issue has come back, it came back gradually at first but then got worse again.
After losing the alternator belt sometime after I got the new battery I had all the belts replaced so I don’t believe that is an issue.
I think the auto rewind function for the cassette tapes on the stereo may be draining power when the Truck is off but I have no proof other than it does it’s rewinding function at random pretty often when I’m driving.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Lights, AC/heat makes me wonder if there’s too much load for the system for some reason. Kind of backed up by it starting to do it as the battery ages.
Have you checked alternator output? Are there any other weird electrical issues? Do the lights flicker as the truck idles?
I haven’t personally checked the alternator but the shop I took it to claimed to have done so.
The battery voltage “Gauge” goes back and forth a good deal when I put the blinker on, and recently I’ve noticed the RPM gauge go up and down less than 100 rpm (as shown on the gauge) in sync with the blinker.
And the lights do dim in sync with the blinker as well.
Might not be a bad idea to test/replace the flasher unit. It’s possible something has gone awry in there and it is drawing too much current.
It might also be a combination of factors, e.g. flasher + marginal battery + marginal (but still “passing”) alternator.
Sounds like the voltage regulator
Yup, something fucky is going on somewhere in that circuit. Unfortunately now that we’re talking about electrical issues I’m gonna tap out. Last coherent thing I could say is to start checking current draw of that circuit?
Wonder if rootwyrm has any better suggestions to check.
Thank you for your attempt.
To me electricity is just spicy magic, so I understand you tapping out.
I have a jar of magic smoke on the shelf, ready for the day I inevitably let it all out of one of my harnesses
With separate circuits messing up I vote for a bad (loose,dirty,corroded) ground.
Check the battery negative, and the other end of that and the engine to chassis ground.
Checking/cleaning grounds is always a good idea. After fixing a couple of XJs with dim headlights by ensuring that there were good ground connections back to the battery, I’ve gotten in the habit of putting in a separate ground from the front clip/radiator support to the battery, and another from engine to battery. This has solved multiple weird issues in various shitboxes. It’s cheap & can’t hurt. I’d look at where the turn signals & headlights ground for sure. Also, I’ve found bad/loose grounds inside the center stack on several vehicles. Mostly from aftermarket stereo installations, but once a random loose screw apparently from the factory.
Wish I had an aha! answer for you. I do honestly wish you luck:that kinda crap is freakin irritating.
Also: take it to your local McParts store and ask for a free battery/alternator load test so you can see those results yourself
I’ve got a 94 Pickup as well (22RE 5MT 2WD). Mine has had an electrical leak for years. I am the 2nd owner. The first had a “security system” installed. I’m fully convinced that not all of that wiring was removed. You may want to check that type of stuff as well.
There is a chance you have a fuse that is too large? There are two alternators for these, a small and a big one. I think you have the big one, so you shouldn’t draw too much without a dead short.
Also, the lights and the blinker are both on the stalk. It could be related to that as well as they share a wiring harness. And, that could be the place to start probing.
I also have resorted to pulling the radio fuse. I drive mine very little these days, so it’s no biggie to listen to the open exhaust scream. It’s a pleasure to meet another Pickup owner.
“and above 5 MPH it’ll shut off for a few seconds then turn back on when the lights and AC/Heat are on.”
Please explain this further. No blinker? Or blinker?
With the blinker, sorry.
Thank you for your advice 🙂
I can still get behind it being your supply circuitry, as stated above. The tell is: “above 5 MPH it’ll shut off for a few seconds then turn back on”. That could indicate an rpm related thing. The vehicle will run off the battery until a certain rpm is achieved, related mostly to the voltage regulator, also as stated above.
Honestly, my first fix would simply be a new alternator. They are like…. $40 and and hour or two of time. You already did the battery. Also check your grounds again, or just run new ones. Also pretty cheap and easy.
Thank you very much.
Another thing: Once the blinker is on it operates fine but when I initially turn it on that is when the car quits. After the car restarts itself with the blinker on it has no issues, same for when I turn it off, just when initially turning on the blinker does the whole car shut off.
Just literally finished rebuilding the entire front end on my 06 sequoia and wow huge difference but now that means rear control arms, swaybar bushings, and endlinks are in order. Shouldn’t be nearly as bad as the front end but Toyota undercoated the frame as part of the recall so all of the bolts are not just rusted but sealed in rust. That and the parking brake has never worked so that’ll be neat.
Yikes on that undercoating problem. Break out the breaker bar!
Hi David. Do you know why my posts are stuck waiting to be moderated?