If you say the words “GM Steering Column” to a car enthusiast, there’s a good chance they’ll all be thinking about the same unit: The “Saginaw” steering column, which was so ubiquitous between the 1970s and 1990s that you’d find it in everything from AMCs to Chevy trucks to Buick sedans to Jeeps. Saginaw columns — especially the tilt ones — found their way into tens of millions of cars, and while they were generally simple and easy to repair, they suffered on major problem: They’d come loose and just flop all over the place in an alarming way. I know because I’ve experienced it.
The company today is called Nexteer, and its home has been Saginaw, Michigan since the company was established as “Jackson, Church & Wilcox Co.” back in 1906. A few years later, Buick bought the company just before becoming part of General Motors.


In time, the steering company became the “Saginaw Steering Gear Division of GM” and later just “Saginaw Division,” since it built more than just steering parts. In the 1990s, it became known as Delphi Automotive Systems, an independent company, and in 2010 it became Nexteer and was sold of to Pacific Century Motors.
These days, Nexteer is doing all sorts of development on Advanced Driver Assist technology, but a few decades ago it was all about that classic tilt column. Here it is in my 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ:
And here it is in my 1989 Chevy K1500:
The wheels may look a bit different, and maybe the stalks are a little different, but the columns themselves are identical, and what you’ll find in pretty much anything GM between the 1970s and early 1990s. Here you can see the Saginaw column in a 1987 Buick Century:

Here it is in a C4 Corvette:

You get the idea. This thing was in everything, including my old Jeep Grand Wagoneer:
Here’s a little .gif of me demonstrating the problem that these steering columns had — they wobbled all over the place:
But my Grand Wagoneer’s steering column’s wobble was nothing compared to that of my K1500. I don’t have a video of it with the wheel on, but just watch this video I took after I’d removed the wheel:
My steering wheel got so wobbly that, at one point while I tried doing a u-turn, it actually bound up! Do you know how absurdly dangerous that is?!
Anyway, to fix this, one basically has to tear the column apart in order to tighten four bolts. Yes, sometimes the “pivot pins” on which the wheel pivots when it’s being tilted also wear out, which is why I bought two extras, but the primary cause of the dreaded Saginaw Wobble is four e-torx bolts buried deep inside the column.
Getting to them takes time and specialized tools, but actually the job itself isn’t too tough. You start by just pulling off the center horn cover. This reveals a little triangular nut retainer that you can remover with a pair of flatheads or a set of pliers. Under that is a 13/16th nut.
You disconnect the horn wire, zip off the nut, then take the other end of horn wire out of the column, and then break out a special steering wheel puller tool (which you can rent for free from Autozone) to take the wheel off.
That yields this steering lock plate, which is being pushed towards you from behind via a spring, but which is being held by a little retaining ring in the center shaft.
To get the lock plate out, you use the same rental tool to push the plate, which gets the stress off the little retaining ring, which you can then remove, at which point the lock plate slips towards you right over the shaft.
From there, you have to push some wires up from under the dash so you have enough slack to yank the white piece you see in the image above towards you and over the shaft. Then you have to use another special tool to remove the aforementioned pivot pins, which lets to pull all this stuff off:
This gives you access to the four e-torx xcrews; here’s one of them:
All four of my column’s e-torx screwed had loosened to the point where they were just bouncing around in their holes. I tightened them with some loctite, installed some new pivot pins for fun, and now my column is tight.
Here are a bunch of repair videos from folks who have had to deal with the same problem:
It’s shocking how many vehicles were built with this faulty steering column. And while many of them don’t fail until they’re 30 years old and 200,000 miles, I think something as critical as a steering column should never fail, especially not because the factory decided not to use threadlocker.
So beware; if you buy an AMC/Jeep/GM product from the 1970s-early 1990s, and the steering column has never been apart, it’s only a matter of time.
Seeing that your YJ had this also, do the Saginaw and Death Wobbles offset, or do they compound?
Saginaw Death Wobble was the name of my metalcore Bob Segar cover band in college
Can confirm, this is a pain.
It happened to me in my 1991 Jeep Grand Wagoneer, and it was absolutely horrible to drive with the loose column.
The job itself isn’t too bad, just lots of small fiddly steps to follow, plus a chance of scratching up the paint on the steering column.
I used Loctite to hopefully prevent those bolts from coming loose again.
It’s one of the most satisfying jobs I’ve done though – it felt like a new car after I was done!
I’m more surprised that they used e-torx bolts in those, that’s gotta be one of the earliest applications of that fastener style… I’m used to seeing them used in BMW’s from the 90’s onwards.
Aussie Valiants (and presumably some US Chryslers) from ’71 onward have Torx heads on the door strikers. That would be pretty early adoption, based on Torx being developed in the late 60’s.
I had that column in my 84 Camaro. What failed for me was the linkage between the key cylinder and the ignition switch gear, connected by pushrods. One of only two times the vehicle stranded me in 100k miles. (The other was when the starter gear blew up at somewhere north of 200k miles…)
It was a $20 part but a PITA to disassemble the thing. I believe my dad and I tightened the bolts when we put it back together.
Yep, my 1989 Chevy Astro van I drove in college had this problem after about 100k miles. The Chevy dealer fixed it (no idea how much but don’t recall it being too terrible) and I never thought about it again until now. Thanks for the flashback!
Never heard about this before. Wild.
On the other hand, none of my… six? GMs from this this era had tilt columns.
These tilt steering columns are also a staple of Boyd Coddington style “Boomer Rods” along with the 350 Small Block, automatic and AC, plus billet everything. Basically the antithesis of a traditional rod.
I’ve never dealt with one, but my son’s K2500 Suburban might have one. It’s a basic work truck model so it may not
This only occured because people used the steering wheel as an entry assist device
Did GM expect them to simply levitate into their seat?
Apparently. It wasn’t that long ago that GM was still putting a grab handle in their trucks on the passenger side only. Thankfully they have finally wised up and now there are handles on both sides.
Weird how being a mechanic for 40 years I managed to get in and out of alot of different vehicles without using the thingy that sets direction for travel as an entry assist device
Also with drivers that apply all of their upper body weight to the top of the steering wheel while driving, this gets the screws out completely and wallows the threads away.
Interesting! I had a 77 Pontiac, an 86 Pontiac, and a 95 Chevy, all with over 200k miles, and never heard of this issue before this article. However, on both the Pontiacs, I had failures with the system of the key cylinder and rod to the ignition switch. With the ’86, for several weeks I just turned the key on to unlock the wheel and used needle nose pliers to pull the ignition switch to start the car. Eventually I got a replacement column from a salvage yard.
Yet another reason to love my plain-jane Cheyenne – no tilt column.
News to me. How far back did this design originate? I am pretty certain I drove some cars with it. An ’89 Olds 88, for one. I’m surprised they weren’t recalled. Although maybe not what happened, I’m just saying that well-distributed contributions might have made it go away.
You didn’t see many recalls back then. First, the domestic manufacturers were in an escalating battle with the Japs and the US Gov wasn’t going to harm their campaign contributors. Second, quality of design and material was poor compared to today’s standards. Thus, the expectations were different. Unless cars were blowing up from minor rear end collisions, things were considered normal failures.
Wow, never knew this was a problem. Glad my 99 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight and 90 Jeep Comanche, both with tilt Saginaw columns haven’t had this issue.
Had this issue on my Firebird years back was able to get to two bolts to tighten them up didn’t have all the proper tools to get every thing apart but it has held since and it isn’t driven much so don’t expect them come loose anytime soon.
IH used the Saginaw too. Yikes. I don’t have this problem right now but will be sure to check this out the next time I break the column down to fix my turn signal canceller-again.
Unfortunately you’ve got to go quite a bit deeper into the column than the turn signal canceller to get to these bolts.
You have to fully remove the entire tilting part of the column, which isn’t too bad but still a pain.
Yeah, I know, but if I’m pulling the steering wheel off for one thing, I might as well keep going.
I believe the proper tool to remove that triangular nut retainer would be a pair of snap-ring pliers. They are available in two basic models: one type expands the ring and the other squeezes the ring together. The triangular
ringclip here is on the outside, so it must be expanded to be removed. There are comparatively few jobs that require snap-ring pliers, but if you need them, you need them – especially the kind that can be configured with different tips.Side note: I admire your commitment to the use of headlamps. Seriously, those things are ridiculously handy.
One could argue that headlamps are ridiculously no-handy.
The ones that go both directions are great. Probably not cheaper than buying 2 pairs and probably less robust. But don’t let anyone tell you that the snap-ring market isn’t constantly evolving!
I’ve seen those – they do indeed appear to be great.
My snap-ring plier game is inadequate, so it might be time for an upgrade 🙂
So the Saginaw Wobble wasn’t a dance invented by Lefty Frizzell in the mid-60s?
I didn’t have the loose column wobble but did have to tear down the column to replace the ignition switch. The switch is buried deep inside the column and is actuated by a rod connected to the key switch. What a nightmare job. It took me a couple of days to accomplish in the dead of winter. I will admit that there was significant muttering and cursing involved.
I had a similar problem with an ’88 (I think) Dodge Caravan minivan. The steering wheel went all over the place. The job to get to it was a huge pain in the rear, and I remember that the gear indicator was just a piece of string that was held in place, and almost impossible to get in the right place when tightening everything back together, so it was one place off until it went to the junkyard.
I don’t know what kind of steering column that one was, but jeez, there has got to be a better design than that half-assed pile of stupidity.
My friend had his ignition switch fail, but he took a different route. Hammer to the side of the column and simply push/pull the actuating rod. It was a steaming pile way before that, so I think the fix devalued it about $5.
Mine was a very pristine 70 W30 442 Olds Cutlass. When I had it, it was worth about 3k, today probably 80-90k.
Done several 70’s era GM columns, they’re not difficult to do, just need the steering wheel puller and the lock plate tool (I’ve done them without this). You can also get your own puller and lock plate tools fairly cheap at Harbour Freight or similar place.
When was threadlocker invented?
Saginaw, cheese it’s good.
That’s what I was thinking too. It was invented in 1953 and released in 1956.
Good grief DT in the video looks 13. Or are we all just old now?
I went from 13 to 50.
I think Project Cactus added a good dozen years, I know it did for me!
going around in clothes intentionally soaked in motor oil probably didn’t help, either
No you rusted.
Trench foot and shower spaghetti will do that, apparently.
Been there. I’ve had several of these with the wobble and it has been 50/50 on the pivot pins or the bolts being loose. On the ones where the vehicle was relatively new (<10 years) but high miles (200,000+) it was generally the pins that were worn out, but the older the vehicle was the more likely the bolts were loose. I'm not sure if I was meant to Loctite the bolts, but I always did (blue, not red).
That’s about the only times not having tilt is a gift. You see a lot of high trim high optioned square bodies with a standard column because the tilt failed at some point and someone threw a non tilt column in it. Good article hopefully more people fix them then just throw a non tilt junk yard unit it them. I’ve fixed them a few times in the past good opportunity to fix or replace stocks and switches that’s a whole other battle though.
Wow, flashback to my first car, an ’86 Chevy Celebrity which indeed had this problem. I remember paying a mechanic to fix the problem which he did and I never thought about what the actual repair entailed until now. TIL.
I had to tear one halfway down in my 94 XJ because the cancellation cam on the turn signals was busted. Was kind of fun to see how easy it was to take it apart/ how things worked in there.
Is this why my TJ doesn’t auto-cancel the turn signal? I just thought it was a primitive Jeep thing.
TJ isn’t a Saginaw column. But yeah its probably a busted part
Yep, super common, especially on the GMT400’s before 1995. After that I think the design is very different due to airbags.
But I never knew why they failed, or how many other cars had the issue until now! Good article.