It seems that these Monday morning updates on the slow process of bringing this Citroën 2CV back into the realm of the living have become a little bit of a regular thing now, so why stop? This weekend’s progress wasn’t quite as dramatic as the past couple of updates, mostly thanks to one of trickier parts about weird French car ownership, which I’ll get into. Even so, a few things did get done, as well as a much needed quick wash, which went less great than hoped, as you can see from the top image there, where the water in that hose decided to exit via a new side door I wasn’t expecting. I guess I need a new hose.
The big goal for this weekend’s 2CV work was to change the gearbox oil, which very likely hasn’t been touched for well over a decade. The required oil is an API GL-4 grade oil, which has a lot less sulphur and phosphorous than API GL-5 grade gear oil, which means it’s a lot safer for “yellow metals” like brass or bronze or copper, or maybe even gold, though I’m skeptical my 2CV’s transmission has all that much gold in it. I mean, I haven’t checked, but that’s my hunch.
The problem here is that I couldn’t find Gl-4 gear oil anywhere! Everything was GL-5, except one lone bottle of GL-3, which could have maybe worked, but I just wasn’t certain. I checked multiple auto supply stores, Tractor Supply Co., and even the salad dressing aisle at the supermarket. No luck. I guess I’ll have to order some. I went through this with brake fluid, too, as the 2CV uses that LHM mineral oil brake fluid, which was also tricky to get. The car is simple, but getting the right juices for it is a bit more complex.

That said, I got some other smaller stuff done that I’d been putting off. The front passenger seat, for example. Now that I’m running from fuel from the actual, integrated fuel tank instead of a gas can in the passenger’s footwell, I was able to replace the passenger’s seat. As you may recall, I replaced the worn rubber springing on these seats with ratchet straps, and I think they work pretty damn well. The seats are quite comfortable! They’re also the lightest car seats I’ve ever had the pleasure of lifting into and out of a car, which is nice.

I also finally put back together the little springs and threaded doohickey assembly that controls the headlight pitch aiming setup. The 2CV has a novel little feature where, via a knob under the dashboard, you can adjust the pitch angle of the headlamps, so if you’re loaded up with a lot of cargo at the rear, your lights won’t just be illuminating birds and bats and tree limbs as you drive, since you can lower their angle. And then raise them back when you’re done. It’s very clever.
My car was missing these springs and other bits of hardware, so my lights were always cast downward, like a shy child’s eyes on the first day of school. But, once again thanks to Citroën guru Til, I was given the springs and threaded cylinder thing, so now my 2CV’s headlights are able to look you in the eye, like a confident, bold automobile.

I also adjusted my carb a bit to get the idle to be a little less frantic, and I think it worked, but I still have some carb and tuning dialing-in to do. The choke cable also had a little kink that made it hard to slide in and out, and I think I got that fixed. Til suggested checking the valve clearances, too, so I need to do that. It’s starting and idling pretty well now, and I think as I drive it a bit more I’ll get it more dialed in.
I also tightened some various nuts and bolts and replaced some missing ones so the front bumper assembly and headlight/coil frame are a bit sturdier than before, which just makes everything feel a bit less ramshackle.

I’m still having voltage regulator issues; I tried adjusting the little adjustment screw on the one I had, but it didn’t seem to help much; the regulator seems to either keep it too low, at like 12.4-12.6V, or too high at 14.5-17V, and it’s sort of a crapshoot which setting you’ll get whenever you start the car. Also, the beat-up and damaged cover to the regulator seems to have escaped, so it’s temporarily in that Candylab toy car box, which is hardly ideal. I think I need to just replace it.
I wouldn’t mind replacing it with a solid state voltage regulator from something available more easily – after all, this should be a relatively universal thing. Electricity is just electricity, so why can’t I use some other generic voltage regulator that takes alternator current and makes sure it’s about 14 volts?

I looked at some options, and while the connectors don’t match, I suspect I could adapt something. I’ll look into it, though it may just make sense to order an official replacement one?

Oh, I also put on new wiper blades. This picture was taken accidentally, but since it shows a nice new wiper blade, I figured I may as well include it.
My goal is to have the car able to do a three-hour trip down to Carolina Motorsports Park when I go to judge the Lemons race there at the end of April. Before I go I know I’ll need to get the voltage regulator fixed, and I need to fix my CV boots, which are torn and dripping greasy goop. I should probably get new tires, too, and it’d be nice to have the whole car running a bit smoother. Oh! And the gearbox oil! I still have to find that stuff and change that!
Oh and I forgot: I should put the fenders back on, so I have front turn signals again, among other things. And those triangular side-filler panels. May as well really live it up!
So, a decent bit to do, but it seems do-able. I’m very excited, and so far love every little drive I’ve done in this strange and wonderful little machine!









One of the few problems I had with my 2CV was the voltage regulator, and it behaved exactly like yours (voltage either too low or two high. You need to fix that before you drive more than very short distances, because too high a voltage will overheat the ignition coil. You’re not gonna notice it while driving, but if you stop the engine and try to start it again after a short while (like 10-20 minutes, for example after a fill-up at the gas station), it won’t start and you either have to wait until it cools down or get creative (have water flow over it without getting the connectors wet).
Gold would be an interesting (read poor) choice of materials for gears. The most malleable of metals, I don’t think it would hold up more than a few centimeters (if that) before shapeshifting into something useless. But it’s also relatively chemically inert, so it probably wouldn’t care what you used as gear lubricant. So, there’s that.
I love the view out the side windows in the photo of your seats. It looks like a French mural, but I am not quite sure by which artist.
Jason I’m glad you mentioned the difference in the gear oils. I replaced the transmission in my Miata with one from a junkyard which was empty. Everyone said get Redline 75w90 GL-4. The store had GL-5 and I was temped to use it but decided that buying $50 in gear oil that ruins a $900 transmission is a dumb idea. I thought it was something to do with additives and you confirmed it. I ordered it online and will add it in soon.
And to anyone who destroys an NC Miata 5spd: The 6 spd has a different output shaft diameter, so you need a new driveshaft too. That was an expensive lesson.
I removed the transmission destroying turbo kit too. It’s better when it’s a seat time driver.
That’s not a leaky hose, it’s a sprinkler. I love the custom hood prop with the air filter cushion.
Every weekend, it gets a little bit better. I try to do this with my projects (and myself) too.
Reading your posts always makes me smile. The car also brings grins. The Dr Seuss Looney Toons cross it so whimsical. Keep being fun Torch!
What a nice thing to say! You’re a peach!
I enjoy hearing the wins on your 2CV. It helps put my own project in perspective. Would be a cool feature to see peoples project vehicles with updates on the site.
Every fullsize truck needs this feature. I hate towing after dark because I know my headlights are pointed straight into the eyes of oncoming drivers when I have the rear loaded down.
I added air bags on the leaf springs of my pickup. I routed the valve to be one of the license plate bolts. I leave a bike pump in the truck and can top it off whenever i need to haul stuff. It’s easy to adjust the pressure to level it out too. It solves that headlight issue.
And if it’s really heavy (such that the front suspension is dangerously unloaded) a decent weight distribution hitch brings it all back down to normal again. Bags are great too (especially with just a heavy bed load) but the WDH is a must way more often that most people think. Does wonders for handling having the front under normal weight
I should have specified that I use the bags for loads in the bed, and not to overload the tongue weight if towing. Thanks for pointing out how important a WDH is.
It’s due to the US regulations that allow those headlamps to produce so much upward glare. The output angle is same regardless of how high or low the headlamps are positioned on the trucks.
ECE regulations stipulate the sharp horizontal cut-off with upward “ramp” to the right (or to the left in the left-hand rule-of-road). The horizontal line must be at certain height, and the output angle must be adjusted accordingly regardless of how high or low the headlamps are positioned. The strict regulations are what keep the headlamps on the medium- and heavy-duty trucks at low position.
No, that’s not what I’m talking about. When you hitch a trailer to the back of the truck it drops the rear and raises the front, which changes the angle of the entire vehicle. It’s essentially a Carolina squat. The truck already has a very sharp cutoff for the low beams, but when it gets tilted like that the cutoff points up instead of straight ahead and ends up above eye level.
I’ve had that little dial on most of my recent crappy hatchbacks, and always wondered what it was really for, because if you’re overloading it enough to significantly move the headlight’s aim, you’ll have trouble moving.
I’ve not spotted a control in my MX-5, but I should probably check. (I fortunately decided to check in the manual for how to open the fuel door before I filled it up the other day. Good thing too, I was never going to find the release leaver because it’s inside the little glovebox behind the seats, wtf Mazda?!)
Not that anyone driving a F-250 Super Duty is going to give a crap and bother to adjust the headlights.
Edit: Ok. I just read MikeInTheWoods’ comment and he’s likely the exception that proves the rule. Good for you sir.
“even the salad dressing aisle at the supermarket”
What you need is Miracle Whip since it has soybean “oil”…just don’t use straight up Mayonnaise!
I use Eneos 75W-90 LSD gear oil in my manual transmissions. It’s not GL-4 but is compatible with syncromesh transmissions. I had the issue of finding a lube that doesn’t eat syncros, this is it. NAPA has it.
Today’s 5J update (Jason’s Just in time Janky Jalopy Jerry rigging, the sign went missing to patch a floor)
Creative cardboard re-purposing, I’ve sprung a leak!, and add a roller to your hood prop for excitement!
FCP Euro has GL4 gear oils, probably some other air cooled VW vendors do as well. You used to be able to get it easily on Amazon, but that ended a couple years ago https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/85w90-gl4-gear-oil-1-liter-liqui-moly-20016
I have an 86 2CV Special, here in New Orleans. I found GL4, LHM, and castor oil (for the suspension tubes) all on Amazon. Rock Auto has the plugs. There are a couple of shops in the US that supply parts. So who is Til?! I’m having a lot of low-idle problems including stalling.But it’s all intermittent.
Jason discussed him first back at the old site. https://www.jalopnik.com/1972-citroen-ds-break-the-jalopnik-classic-review-1685729374/
His font of knowledge, his teaching ability (he’s a professor in the hard sciences) and his good nature are helping keep these old cars running and new folks learning how to do so.
Love the progress and regular updates, it’s the little things!!
Amsoil definitely has a GL4 gear oil. Royal Purple should as well. Pennzoil Synchromesh is GL4 as well. If it meets the viscosity spec since it’s on the thinner side.
It’s been pretty awesome watching you turn this bullet-riddled opossum habitat into what is now very lose to being a fully functional vehicle.
I hope that’s not a Freudian omen. 😉
You see what happens the one time I don’t re-read my comment right after posting it? Stop reinforcing my neuroses, internet gods!
Bonne chance à vous!!
While I have no experience whatsoever with Mathy Universal products (doesn’t seem like they were ever sold in the U.S.A. at all) some of the graphics are pretty neat https://www.mathy.de/en/online-shop/ especially for their Chromjuwelen Motor Öl https://www.mathy.de/media/ae/fa/4b/1770646547/mathe-chromjuwelen-motoroel-20w-50_1l.webp?ts=1770646547
Maybe turn the battery, so the positive terminal doesn’t short out to the clamp, if that cardboard falls out.
Torch’s tendencies towards a rather laissez faire attitude with batteries is well know, idk why he’d change now
He’ll make this one behave by reminding it about what happened to the last battery that pissed him off.
It’s very French.
No, it’s required in Europe for decades…
Interesting. What other cars have this feature?
I know for sure my Peugeot 206, and 2006 VW Polo both had a little dial that would raise/lower the aim of the headlights, from the slight lag I assumed it had a little motor somewhere. Both cars are so small that if you put enough weight in the back to significantly change the headlight aim, they’d probably barely move.
I’ve just got an MX-5 (Miata), and
I’ve not noticed that control yet,ETA apparently it auto-levels the headlights. Great, that’s me sorted next time I’m loading half a ton of stone into the back of my tiny sportscar…I don’t think all of the US-bound European vehicles have this feature. I’ve seen the thumb wheel in US-version BMW 7-Series from 1970s to 1980s, but I don’t think they are functional. My father had 1984 318i and 1989 325i in Texas, and they didn’t have this feature.
Look at the US and ECE versions of Mercedes-Benz W123/W126 lighting control panels. See the difference?
I used to own a W126 here in the USA. It did not have that feature.
It’s a required feature since sometime in the 1990s, if I remember correctly. The 2CV had it decades before it was required, and I can see two possible reasons for that: 1. The suspension is very softly sprung, even just a passenger or two will make it squat on the rear and aim the headlights into the sky, and 2. the bigger Citroens all had self-leveling hydro-pneumatic suspension, and Citroen used to advertise that thanks to this, the headlights were aimed right regardless of how much weight was on the rear axle. I could see that they felt it was necessary to install this feature in the 2CV to be „consistent“ for all of their models.
So… about 50 miles? 😀
I’m really enjoying these updates, btw , and humbly suggest you and your 2CV be assigned the descriptor of ‘plucky’.
HEY!!! I had mine doing full speed on a 55mph road recently
Why replace the CV boots just because they’re dripping goopy stuff? That’ll stop soon enough.
That is some masterful Candylab product placement. Amazing
Torch – try your local Grainger for the gear oil. Looks like you need a good R&O oil. Any idea on the viscocity spec?
I think 75W-80 or 80W-90 would work! And thanks, I’ll check Grainger!
Get an R&O oil, not an EP oil. It is the sulphurous Extreme Pressure additives that eat yellow metals. They have a few options sold by the gallon that may suit your needs.
RedLine Oil MT-90 is GL-4 spec. NAPA may have GL-4 in their Sta-Lube line as well.
This could make for a great “who’s on first” conversation at the parts counter.
“I need 2 CV boots.”
“Sure, make and model?”
“Yes.”
COTD
COTD ^2
There might be a brief delay in ordering the regulator… “Watts in a second.”
Apropos of which, I’ve posted this more than once here and elsewhere, around the turn of the century (!!) there would sometimes be some confusion, with wrong parts having to be returned and exchanged, because people would ask for a part for their “’90 Ford F150” or their “’94 F150” where the parts counter clerk would hear one as the other. Because the F150 went through a substantial generation change in 1992 with many parts not being interchangeable people ended up with ’94 parts for their ’90 and vice versa where the parts wouldn’t work, lol.
Thank you. When he last posted about the CV boot I knew there was a joke there and it weighed on me for far too long.
Jokeus interruptus is a technical name for your experience