The life of a car enthusiast is often one rife with its peaks and troughs. Cars can deliver some of your best days and some of your worst, especially if you goofed up because you didn’t know something important. Maybe you learned about how rear-engine cars handle the hard way, or that if you wreck a financed car, the insurance payout will likely be lower than what you owe. What car lesson took you way too long to learn?
Sometimes I am a stubborn person. If I feel that something is working, I’ll keep doing it until I have evidence otherwise. Unfortunately, in more than one instance, that required “evidence” was more than word of mouth, and required something stupid or bad to happen to me.


My best example of this has to be how I used to lift cars for servicing. Today, I use a sturdy floor jack to lift a vehicle, jack stands to secure it, wheel chocks to keep it from moving, and a spare wheel under the vehicle as a last resort. But this wasn’t always the case. When I was younger and dumber, I took far more chances than anyone ever should.

In my early days of car enthusiasm, if I needed to lift a car for any reason, I always used the vehicle’s factory emergency jack. Of course, in the days before cars shipped from the factory with a bottle of goop and some well wishes, you had actual spare tires and a tire change kit.
Every single time I wanted to swap wheels, work on brakes, or do some other kind of work that necessitated a wheel removal, I busted out the old scissor jack, pumped my car up, and got to work. For at least the first couple of years of my wrenching, that tiny black jack was the only thing holding the car up. Later, I learned to slide a wheel under the car for safety, but I still used the stupid scissor jack, anyway.
My good friends would tell me to stop doing it because, as they told me, scissor jacks are really only supposed to be used for emergencies. Even then, they’re liable to topple or buckle. My friends called them “widowmakers.” Sure, I had seen scissor jacks fail before, but I thought it was because the people using them didn’t know what they were doing. I made sure my cars were level and that the jack was properly locked in and perfectly vertical. I mean, just look at this image from an eBay listing for a generic scissor jack, especially the car on the bottom!

Then it happened. One day in 2020 or so, I was swapping wheels on a Volkswagen Passat when the car shifted, the jack buckled, and the car came down. Thankfully, all wheels were mounted, and my body wasn’t under the car, but that was enough to scare me from ever using one of those jacks ever again, even for their intended purpose. Now, the emergency jacks in my inventory just sit around doing nothing. If I have a tire emergency, the floor jack comes out.
My last bit of advice here is that if you are using a tire iron or factory wrench to change a flat tire and you just can’t get the nuts or bolts off, pump the jack up under the wrench to break the wheels loose, and then lift the vehicle. Don’t jump on the tire iron unless you feel like cutting your leg or otherwise hurting yourself, as happened to me once.
How about you? What important car lesson did it take you way too long to figure out? It doesn’t have to be wrenching related, but maybe a driving skill you learned or perhaps a car finance trick.
Don’t wrench on your car when the parts stores are closed.
Don’t be cheap: the alldatadiy prices are very, very reasonable.
Some libraries have a subscription to AllData. It is worth checking with the resource desk.
Mine does but it has to be accessed in person at the main downtown library. It also has a subscription to Chilton Online, that you can access from home, I have used it several times!
I think that falls into the category of “Do your pre-reading BEFORE you start taking parts off.” it’s been well worth the trip into town to print off the AllData info before the weekend showed up because THEN you found out about the extra tool/arm/part you needed BEFORE you get to the car.
Yeah, I wish I could get it online, too, but then I’d be tempted to just worry about it the day of and get myself into trouble.
When people ask you what you think of a car, find out if they have already bought it.
If yes, then it is great.
If no, find out what they want you to say and say that.
Be very selective with whom you share your car opinions and/or car data
It’s better to just buy the right tool than buying the part you broke from trying to use the wrong tool on it
That’s mine as well, slightly tweaked – It’s better to buy/borrow/rent the right tool and do the job the right way, rather than spending hours trying to half-ass something with inadequate tools.
20 years in industry taught me that the correct tool is the one that works. Barring that, the one you modified to work.
I have a few specific sizes of wrenches that I’ve either bent or ground thinner to fit specific applications.
Nothing is more expensive than a cheap German car.
That I don’t have to stubbornly fix everything myself, sometimes paying a shop is worth it….
So much this. At some point (for me, age forty-flerf), you learn what your time (and aggravation) is worth and develop a simple formula that dictates when you have somebody else do it.
I’m here
That comes with life experience, but I think income is also a factor here. When I was in my early 20’s changing my oil outside in January in Boston, I would have been happy to pay someone else to do it (if I’d had the money to pay them).
If you are going to work on your own vehicles, keep an operational spare.
This has saved me a lot of stress. I can take time to acquire parts and work the job around my schedule.
Before this, I’d be running to different parts stores to gather the needed parts. This would often be followed by an all-night wrench session that may or may not result in an operational vehicle by morning.
One reason I do my own work is I always have a backup. I’d have been up a creek without a paddle due to some missing part/etc… a hundred times without another running car I can just jump into.
This strategy has led to me driving a Miata rolling on summer tires in winter temperatures that made the traction iffy at best, but it’s still a better option than walking.
Definitely this. My rule has always been that if I want a play vehicle I can wrench on I need a reliable daily driver too. There have been plenty of times I’ve gotten frustrated working on a project car and been thankful to be able to just close the garage door and not think about it for a while because I didn’t rely on that car to go work.
The closest thing I have to a pre-nup is that my wife gets a new car, I get her hand-me-down and a toy car.
I just realized recently that she managed to violate our agreement by not passing on our xB (traded in for FR-S) or the FR-S (traded into insurance company) and stuck me with the 2017 Forester I’m stuck with now.
Never sell a car to someone you know.
I once sold a car to my younger brother. Luckily (for me) it was stolen before it developed any mechanical problems that would make me regret the sale.
I’ve done it 3X so far and had no issues, but I’m also honest to a fault.
Don’t let Matt force you into buying a fucking Ssangyong Rodius.
Or ever leave your Mondial in a “locked” garage. Sorry Adrian, that was too easy.
List.
We only tease you because we love you, Adrian!
Cars get fucked up with time and use! You just can’t prevent it. Over a long enough timeline you’ll pick up hairline scratches, door dings, the sun will bake your clearcoat and headlight lenses. Not to say it’s fine to completely neglect a car, but keeping it pristine just isn’t possible, outside of having a dedicated show car or something.
Everyday wear and tear is normal. I’m buying a ’13 Highlander to replace an ’05 MDX. It is is very good shape, but not perfect or precious. I intend to to use it as intended. I care more about the interior/seats than the exteror paint TBH. None of our cars are garaged, all sit out in the elements. Rust is my bugaboo.
The damage you pick up is directly related to how much you care about the car.
When I got my Genesis, I was obsessed, and the world was out to get me with scratches and door dings.
8 years later, I could park that thing IN the cart corral at the store and nothing would touch it.
This is so true. My wife’s van, which I spent real money on, gets dinged about 3 times per year and occasionally driven into, all while parked. We’ve always been very careful about parking it, but we’ve even gotten door dings where there was actually no parking spot beside ours.
My beater Rav4 on the other hand is ding-proof. I watched a lady hard slam her door into the side of it and she wasn’t able to mark the paint.
I’ve learned it’s possible simply to get rid of a car. It just goes away and, importantly, more often than not it doesn’t come back.
There is no such thing as a cheap Porsche.
Also, I stopped using a wood block on my floor jack to add height, when the last one split as I was lowering the car.
Sometimes the people you think are your friends, and are going to help you on your project for a very reasonable sum, are actually snake in the grass bastards who are going to screw you over and steal your money.
Fuck you Tony! If you were on fire, I wouldn’t piss on you to put it out.
Luckily I learned that lesson on a cheap enough scooter, that I was able to part it out and get close to even on it.
have we heard this story on Oppo? I feel like I’d have remembered it. [user name is different on these two sites for some reason, but you gave me some local travel tips recently.]
Ah, 10-4.
I believe I posted in Oppo, but it was several years ago on old oppo. It was a failed attempt at building a Honda Helix for the Gambler 500-Illinois. Maybe I’ll write the tale up (again???) one of these days. I probably still have some pictures of it.
i was on old oppo for a bit, but not nearly enough. that plus time means I could have just as easily forgotten. sounds like it’s a good story though 🙂
I mean, considering I don’t even remember if I posted it or not. Its definitely been a while 🙂
When your Fiat didn’t actually need to be fixed again, but the mechanic was a scammer.
Just trying to line his pasta filled pockets!
I got by with car sized jacks and jack stands while rotating tires on SUVs for way too long. My jack had enough lift to get one corner high enough to install a stand, but once one corner was on a stand, it didn’t have enough lift to get an adjacent corner high enough to get a jack stand in there or take off the tire. I would jack up one corner, support it with a jack stand and take the wheel off that corner. Then I would jack up an adjacent corner and use the jack stand as a pivot to raise one corner while lowering the other. It was sketchy as hell but worked to get the tires rotated. Once I bought the proper sized jack and stands, getting SUVs on stands for tire rotation was super easy.
I’d just stack a few 2×8 on ground under jack to raise it up to get that extra height (turn it sideways so wouldnt roll off).
Yes, later bought a newer one with more range…much easier.
I used a wood block on my low profile to work on the Crosstrek. Until the block split the last time I used it.
I’ve learned to read the instructions and shop procedures…especially with important things like engines.
How’d I learn this? By sending a springloaded camshaft into orbit when removing it from a 5VZ (Toyota 3.4) engine. Learned again when I put exhaust studs into the head without reading the torque spec and cracking said head. Oopsie.
Put a K&N “cold air intake” with an oiled re-usable air filter in my pickup truck in college (2000 Dodge Dakota) and a few months later started having problems with the engine hesitating/losing power under hard acceleration. Spent a bunch of money trying to figure out the issue and eventually sold the truck.
Later on after owning Subarus and VWs with aftermarket tunes, I realized that the intake was likely the issue – either by messing with the amount of air the engine computer was expecting or perhaps the oil fouled the Ox sensor? Not sure, but I’m pretty confident if I’d just put the stock airbox and filter back on the issue would have gone away!
I pay for AAA. If I’m not at home with my rolling floor jack, jackstands, impact wrench, and torque wrench, I just call AAA. It’s just not worth the risk, especially on the side of a busy road.
This. I have it for my other family members more than me. I’m stupid and will try to change a tire on the side of the interstate. Fortunately modern tires are good.
Just because you can buy that non running project car, doesn’t mean you should.
After a couple of times my wife wisely has stopped me from doing that any more.
I don’t understand what you mean.
Don’t buy rusty cars. Don’t buy heavily modified cars. Don’t buy somebody elses project.
cheap project cars are cheap for a reason
Don’t buy diesel.
Don’t buy Volkswagens.
Don’t try giving people honest advice on what they should buy, they don’t usually want to hear it.
Don’t take the judgment of others online too seriously. Drive what you like, how you like, where you like, and without regret. That’s what being an enthusiast means.
When you’re young and have no money, don’t buy the interesting car.
Buy the Corolla.
Same, though I always said buy the Honda (Accord, Civic, Fit, any are fine).
my brain just refuses this. i know its bad, i know it makes my life hard because of what i end up spending.. but i just simply wont drive a toyota.
I wanted to buy a Honda or Mazda instead of another BMW. At least it’s my second car.. but still. The parts prices alone are terrible.
I bought a Chevy and ended up with a Corolla anyway. (’88 Nova. Rebadged Sprinter.)
I’m in my 50s and I still wish I had the money (and/or time) for an interesting car.
Took me entirely too long to find out the gas icon tells you what side the fill cap is.
well in all fairness that didnt start until recently.
By recently you mean the last 20 years, but yeah, it wasn’t always a thing.
Soon as my car gets out of a shop, I loosen and retorque ALL lugnuts. Most times I find them WAY too tight ( I tighten to about 90 FTLB lightly lubed) . I keep good lug wrenches in all the cars, plus a can of Fixaflat in each. Better to ruin a TPMS sensor than get run over. At worst, call AAA and wait if not safe.
Lesson learned: The road to hell is paved with overconfidence. It is ok to pay to have something fixed when it saves you lots of time and prevents you from messing up or breaking other things in the process. Fix what you can, learn and do but do not be a cheap stubborn bastard, that helps no one.
Daughters car is in shop today getting a wheel bearing. Without a lift, I would have an entirely miserable full day working on it. Then, if I hit a snag I’m boned. There is work I will happily do, but getting to the point where any suspension work is off the table.
SO many diy repairs have been sidelined by a rusty broken bolt.
I’m nearing 50 and spending hours under a car with an impact becomes less appealing each day. I live in PA, I have started ‘simple’ suspension work resulting in broken bolts, studs, etc… Same with any exhaust work. Unless I have full factory replacement I’m not playing anymore.
Did rear shocks and end links on my MDX. I had to cut the end links out with a wafer wheel. Was it really worth it?
I did my shocks and swaybar disconnects on my rusty Minnesota salt jeep this summer that was hard and there was cutting involved. The plan was already in place that if i eff it up the shop was waiting.
The key is, do you need it Monday for work? If it can sit on jackstands for a week that’s a different story.
It was not.
My rule has always been unless its extremely basic, a mechanic does the work on the daily driver. The project car, weekend, car, off roader? Work on those all you want, if you break something you’re not worried about getting to work on Monday.
Yes I have followed that rule also thanks!
I still prefer to do my own brakes, fluid changes, etc… But I also set up for sucess.
Maintenance before modifications.