In what feels like a flash, I met my wife, got married, had a child, and now instead of being a single dude wrenching on badass Jeeps, I’m a domesticated suburbanite whose projects are mostly house projects. As someone with zero experience fixing houses and 15 years of experience fixing largely rusty cars, I wasn’t sure how my skills would translate. Well, I just replaced a furnace blower, designed and built a deck, designed a bathroom (!) and have lots more projects coming; what have I learned is that not nearly all of my skills translate over.
Wrenchers wrench. If you’re someone who calls yourself a wrencher, then you can probably fix anything, whether it’s a car or a house or a plastic flower garland (a (fake) flower fell off my wedding garland, so I used a lighter and melted its stem back on — my wife was impressed!).


Wrenching is a beautifully-transferable problem-solving mindset that applies to so many elements of one’s life. Upon discovering that something isn’t working, you analyze the system to figure out how the component works, you establish the failure modes, and you determine which potential repair is the most optimal given constraints. Working on cars has been a huge player in getting me to where I am today, professionally, and it’s something I think everyone should at least try.
So I figured I’d be able to do a bunch of home repairs on my wife’s townhouse to save us a bit of money, as contractors are expensive. I was mostly right, but it wasn’t easy because houses are quite different than cars.
Houses Are Not Nearly The Precision Instruments Cars Are 
The first thing I noticed was that, relative to cars, houses are built really poorly. Maybe “poorly” isn’t the exact word, but the precision and quality of the components in a car — even the worst car on the market today — are so much higher than those of a house.
Take wiring for example. I repaired our house’s furnace blower the other month, and my god — the wires were all over the place, held in by wiggling connectors and wire nuts; it was terrible.
Even on an old car from the 1940s, the wiring is cleaner than this, and that’s for a number of reasons:
- Cars have to endure lots of dynamic motion and a variety of weather conditions
- Cars have to be mass-produced, whereas each house is its own thing
- Cars are generally designed to be serviced more often than homes
As a result, cars have beautiful nylon connectors, sometimes with silicone gaskets built in. The wires are often part of a nice, clean harness/loom, and everything is nicely color-coded in a way that can be easily deciphered with a Hayne’s Manual.
And that’s just the wiring. Look at the mechanical bits of any car, and everything is beautifully stamped/forged/cast, and every part is perfectly interchangeable/standardized. You simply remove an old part, put a new one on following instructions, and bob’s your uncle.
Houses — especially old ones — are just not anywhere on the same level. I mean, look at the ductwork coming from this furnace!:
Some of that difference in perceived quality owes itself to materials.
The Materials Are Totally Different
Cars are generally made of steel, aluminum, or carbon fiber, whereas homes are made of wood, concrete, plaster, and stone. These materials are way, way different than one another, and because of this, I found that working on homes — while still wrenching, technically — is a markedly different overall experience than working on cars, and only really requires an actual wrench for a few jobs (like plumbing).
For example, I had to pour some concrete for my deck, and I’ll be honest: I had no clue how to do it. I didn’t know how deep I had to dig, I didn’t know I had to put gravel at the bottom of the hole, I didn’t know what concrete to use, I wasn’t sure how to make it look good, I wasn’t sure how long to let it cure before installing anchors — it was all new. In fact, it was so new that, when the contractor came in to actually weld my deck (since that job was too much for me), he just redid the pour using a nice concrete form:
The composite wood on top of the deck was also a new material, as — aside from maybe a Morgan or an old Model T or a bus — wood is largely absent from from the car world. I’d never before used a nail while wrenching on a car (obviously I’ve hammered nails before, but just not in cars), and while I had used self-tapping screws similar to the ones I used on my deck, generally in the car world it’s frowned upon to use anything other than a bolt for a mechanical connection (you’ll find some screws on interior trim).
There are some subsystems of a home that feel similar in nature to a car; for example, plumbing can sometimes feel familiar. If you’ve run brake lines or fuel lines or coolant hoses, then you probably have a decent understanding of various fittings and how to use thread tape and how to use hose clamps on a rubber coupling.
Honestly, this plumbing coupling:

Doesn’t look much different than my Chevy K1500’s upper radiator hose connection:
And there are certain machines in a home that might seem similar to certain parts of a car — a dishwasher might seem similar to, say, a wiper motor. But by and large, fixing cars and fixing house are extremely different largely thanks to the differences in material makeup, and with that difference comes differences in tools.
Tools
I’d say my automotive toolset is sufficient for probably 1/2 to 2/3 of the house projects I’ve worked on, and sometimes I’ve made do even when my tool isn’t optimal for the job.
For example, ideally I’d use a mitre saw to cut wood boards or a circular saw:
But all I had was a metal chopsaw, so I used it:
Also, ideally I’d use a pipe wrench to fix my plumbing issues, and I normally have a pipe wrench for tie rod adjustment, but since I’ve lost that wrench, a pair of vise grips did the job. But quite often, I had to go out and buy new tools.
I cannot use my sledgehammer as a jackhammer — well, not easily. So I bought a cheap jackhammer online:
In a house, you often have to seal a lot of things off, because sometimes the gaps are huge. Cars, generally, are built with precision, so any use of RTV silicone is relegated to sealing up systems like differentials and oil pans and cooling systems; any sealant in the vehicle’s body is not serviceable.
Look at all the caulking I had to do for just the shower pan:
Now look at how relatively little RTV went on this diff:
Naturally, given how much of this silicone you need for pretty much all house projects, I went out and bought a caulking gun:
In the car world, a jar or a small tube of silicone does most jobs:

Of course, we have grease guns (see below) that operate exactly the same way, but homes typically aren’t as pro-grease as the underside of cars are.

And then there’s paint. Painting homes is way, way easier than painting a car. You just buy a can of paint, a roller, and some masking tape, and you take care of business:
With a car, you’re going to want to spray the paint onto the smooth metal surface. And while a rattle can is better than a roller for anything that isn’t a tractor, even a rattle can won’t get you a great paint job on a car — you really need to use a paint booth and a spray gun. It’s honestly an art, whereas painting a house is a job anyone and their brother can do.

But aside from paint and automotive rust, I’d say overall working on a house is actually more difficult than working on a car, and that’s because many home repairs are aesthetic in nature.
Design/Aesthetic
While my wife was giving birth to our child Delmar (not his real name), we were moving to a new place that had a leaky bathroom. This meant we had to have the floor torn up, the wood boards underneath replaced, a new “hotmop” installed — it was a big job, and one that I myself was not comfortable undertaking.
My primary concern was that, unlike replacing a car’s control arm or driveshaft or wheel bearing, this job would have huge aesthetic implications, and my wife and I would notice them every single day.
So we hired contractors to handle everything, and to retile the bathroom. At this time, my wife was very pregnant, so when the contractors asked us what type of tile we wanted to put back in, my wife said: “I do not want to think about a bathroom remodel right now, you take care of it!”
Me?
While trying to work and take care of my wife, I had to figure out how to redesign an entire bathroom, and let me just say: It was like nothing I’d ever done with a car. And more than that, the people involved in home renovations are a totally different crowd than those on car forums. So when I went on social media/message boards to ask how to remodel my bathroom, I was interacting with what felt like a different group of folks than I was used to (for one, it seems more women are involved with home renos than swapping out vehicle suspensions, for whatever reason).
Anyway, take a look at what the old bathroom looked like:
After a bunch of runs to the Floor & Decor store with my 1989 Chevy K1500, I brought in the tiles I chose, gave it to the contractors, and prayed that my bathroom design — which, aside from a bit of input on forums and from my wife’s friend, I largely “winged” — wouldn’t upset my wife. Here’s the final result:
That’s the challenge of house repair — you have to make sure it looks nice, and given my current skillset, I could not have laid those tiles so nicely. The contractors did a nice job, though for over $20 big ones, they better have!
That’s the other thing worth talking about: Price.
Cost
I have to say: Overall, I was surprised by how cheaply you can fix house if you have the skills. That latter clause applies to cars, too, as mechanics shops are charging more and more lately due in part to technician shortages.
Really, with both cars and homes, farming out the work is going to be extremely expensive, with houses taking the cake. I mean, 20 big ones for a bathroom remodel? That’s absurd. There are few car repairs that would cost that much, because cars just aren’t that expensive to begin with; at a certain point, you just buy a new car.
But with a house, you can convince yourself that the remodeling costs will end up being worth it when you go to resell, because houses — especially in the LA area — are just so expensive.
Again, if you just go out and buy some tiles and retile yourself, you can remodel a bathroom for just a few grand. Ditto with most home repairs, including floors and roofs. But it’s all about having the skills, and in some cases, the permits.
Problem Solving & Basic Engineering Theory
As I alluded to at the start of the article, certain elements of automotive repair translate to home repair pretty much perfectly, with the big one being problem solving skills.
Take this issue I was having with my toilet. The lid was sliding all over the place! Since I hadn’t ever fixed a toilet lid, I went online and found this video:
The video shows that you just press the gray button in the center, and the lid lifts off. The issue I was having is that the allen screw holding the bracket to the toilet was just spinning.
Having dealt with the worst possible “nut on back side is spinning” issue on a Chevy HHR, I knew what to do; I had to get some vise grips on that nut. So that’s what I did; I reached behind my toilet, got vise grips on the rubber nut, and then tightened the screw. Boom, my toilet was fixed.
So some of these obvious bits of wrenching intuition definitely transfer over, and so does basic engineering know-how.
The deck above is something I designed myself after the previous deck completely rusted out. The issue with the previous deck is that the deck-boards were screwed into the 2″ steel tubes, allowing water to get trapped in the tubes (which lacked drain holes). So with the new design, I had the welder chuck in some angle iron, to be used for both fastening the composite boards boards (so no water would get in the square tubes) and to provide some support for the boards.
I ran a static analysis on the deck, finding that the previous steel tubes were too thick for this application — 11 gauge (0.120″) tubes were more than enough for a short three-foot deck extension. What’s more, the previous version of the deck’s legs had literally rusted where they went into the ground (they were just hovering; it’s not clear what was keeping my deck up), so the redesign employs a raised concrete footing with a bolted attachment instead of embedded (the bolted attachment makes it so that you can replace a leg without breaking out a jackhammer) as you can see above and in a previous image.
I’ve had lots of experience with metal corrosion, and one of the main culprits is stagnating water, while the second is stagnating dirt/grime that can trap water. I noticed on the deck that the gap between the steel tube butting up against the home’s bricks was trapping all sorts of junk, so I broke out the roofing “wetpatch” — this black tar-like substance — to fill in the gap the entire length of the deck.
So yeah, engineering know-how like static analyses, and basic experience of how rust proliferates translates over. Honestly, plenty of automotive wrenching translates over, at least enough to make learning the ropes associated with all the new materials and tools relatively enjoyable.
My next project is going to be a fun one. You see the steel gate above that I pulled out of a dumpster? I’ve purchased some wheels and an electric gate-opener, and I’m going to buy a v-track, with aims to build a nice automatic sliding gate at the end of our driveway.
This is going to involve me pouring concrete and drilling holes with special masonry bits — it’ll be tough, and will definitely feel new. And I like that; I like learning new skills, even if they’re only kinda new.
You already cleared the mental block of “it’s going to be square and straight”. Accept it won’t be, ever. The other good news is that paint, spackle and caulk hide a lot of sins.
That’s the truth
The joy of home ownership is the whole new way wave of tool purchasing! Just be sure you pick one battery system.
Modern 12v stuff is ridiculous. Light and plenty powerful. Much less the brushless tools.
I was already in the Dewalt ecosystem for my garage tools, and after going under contract on my townhouse at the beginning of the year, snagged an Oscillating Multitool and it has truly been the savior of almost every project. I did Pergo on the main level, and for weird cuts for banisters and trim, and the transition strips it was truly a game changer. It was also crucial for cutting the grout on the old tile in the kitchen, touching up drywall that needed squared off, and soooo many more things. Easily the single greatest $150ish I’ve ever spent. Sure the chop saw and table saw got plenty of use trimming flooring boards to length and whatnot, but little handheld stuff like the multitool is an absolute must for any medium or large project.
Ryobi’s the only manufacturer I know of that has not changed their battery shape in (checks Google) 29 years. I switched to them because of that. I hate when a tool is obsolete or relegated to iffy ebay batteries because the manufacturer decided to switch. They’re not pro-grade, but neither
are the girls we dateis the work I do.Makita changed their battery attachment configuration a few years ago such that new batteries won’t fit into older tools. There is a tab inside the tool that, if removed, allows the new batteries to slide in properly. Pretty simple mod. I was informed of this by a Makita rep at a tool show. Maybe it is the other way around, but still a simple fix. As long as you are not worried about warranty.
Dumb ex related story. As I did a hugh amount of house-fixing on my daughter’s place 700 miles from my home, I relied on their limited set of tools. Well, I did buy them a lot of tools, but anyway. They had one battery for the 3 Makita tools, so we swapped that battery constantly. When they split up, I went through the stuff the idiot left behind to find a small Pelican case with three Makita batteries. They be mine now. He got the one battery and the three tools. Idiot also didn’t complain when my daughter got the table saw, compressor and tools as she used them a lot more than he ever did.
One of the first things I did after we bought our house was run to Lowe’s for a miter saw, reciprocating saw, and hammer drill. That was back when Lowe’s would give out the 10% coupons in the USPS mail forwarding envelopes. I was very happy.
This was 2009 so everything was corded…I waited on cordless until the Li-Ion stuff was plentiful and cheap. God, the old Ni-Cad stuff sucked. Now I have a decent collection of DeWalt 20V and Milwaukee 12V stuff for the home and cars!
Also if you just need some tool once, check the equipment rental places. There’s no need to buy and store a jackhammer for one project. Rent it, and then when the project is over, you don’t need to worry about it again.
I definitely enjoy interior decorating and design, but for the most part, I leave the actual difficult stuff to people with skills greater than mine. I can do a very good paint job (if you’ve seen the original Suspiria, I turned part of the ballet school floor into my living room wall) and I can sew curtains like it’s nothing, but I hired someone to install my “engineered stone” shower. I can fix some plumbing here and there, but it’s gross and I hate when I have to. Next on my list is swapping a couple hideous ceiling fans with lights for ceiling fans without lights (overhead lighting is the devil’s illumination) and adding some properly goth wall sconce lights.
Congrats on the bathroom – You did rather well!
I’d just recommend you invest in an elongated toilet with a bidet seat.
(Do you have an outlet nearby – or on the other side of the wall?)
Trust me on this.
Agreed. Game changer. I wish I had done it long ago. I got the fancy one with an instantaneous water heater, heated fan dry, and a heated seat. And with the cost of TP, I’m sure it’s paid for itself in a year or two.
So should your username now be 0WiperB?
Lol
My first experience with a bidet seat was in Tokyo in 1984. It was a shock as I just pushed some buttons not knowing the outcome. Now I love my Toto bidet seat with unlimited warm water and air drying. In addition to the warmed seat, it has a brief fine spray that coats the toilet surface when you sit down and a de-odorize function when you leave. That and my towel warmer are my biggest luxury items. When we had the (small) bathroom remodeled all six surfaces of the cube had to be torn out and redone. The bathtub that was removed was cast iron and had a date stamp of 1928. I considered placing a box outside into which one would put a dollar for each visit to deal with a 7-year depreciation schedule.
Similar story – My first encounter was in the mens room at Spago in Roppongi in 1992
I now have a Brondel Swash with heated water and seat and air dryer – which is pretty darned good, but without all the music, fragrances etc of a Toto Washlet.
I ponied up for an unheated $99 Kohler bidet seat right before the toilet paper shortages eased because I’d really like an elongated toilet at some point. Maybe I’m numb back there or something, but the water has been warm enough here that I don’t miss it. although I have since decided that I’d be even happier with a brushless car wash setup with a high-pressure stream, soap gun, and post-rinse wax before the heated air dry on exit.
I started out with an unheated setup such as you’d find in Thailand – basically a sprayer like you’d have on your kitchen sink connected to the toilet water line. That worked fine in the summer – but in the winter it was like blowing icicles up my ass…
I must have bought the cheap model. I don’t have any fragrances or music. On a side note, when we had the remodel done, I spec’d the quietest exhaust fan/light fixture (Panasonic). My contractor said some of his customers asked for a noisy fan, because they were embarrassed by the noises they made on the toilet.
You’ll do great with home repair stuff. I did the opposite and learned the house stuff first. My dad was really good at that stuff and my whole family learned a ton from him. We aren’t a “DIY” group, we are a “DEY”group. Do EVERYTHING Yourself. In my current house, I did everything except refinishing hardwood floors (there’s too many big tools involved and a lot of skill) and kitchen counter tops. I gutted and replaced 2 bathrooms and the kitchen, plus replumbed the whole house on the supply and sanitary drain side. I even installed my condenser and AC lineset, but had a friend braze the lines, pull the vacuum, and fill the refrigerant (again, tools I didn’t have). Many of the skills translate to cars, but it’s different. I’m still learning and hope to continue to. The great thing is that there are so many sources out there to learn about how to do things now, and between Marketplace, Harbor Freight, and Amazon, you can buy almost anything you need to DEY.
This would be us. We live 135 miles from a car dealership or just about any contractor that we would consider trusting. Everything we do is a first time. There are no building permits or construction inspections in my area. You keep up on NEC and IBC which tells you the absolute requirements that must be met, but maybe not the most economical or easiest way to do something. But just like with automotive work, you learn from YouTube and forums. We’ve done structural concrete, roofs, structural beam installations, windows, doors, electrical, and entire buildings. I honestly don’t see it as that much different than automotive work, but the tools tend to be much different and a lot of the machinery (tractors, skid steers, telehandlers) required is very expensive. And they require maintenance of their own, and trailers (which also require maintenance), and trucks to haul those trailers (which require maintenance), and that gets you into CDL licensing. I sort of understand why some people farm all the work out, but it’s not our lifestyle.
Last weekend, I started with paint correction on our Miata, moved to flooring R&R in our living room, troubleshooting a fuel injection pump that I rebuilt on our small tractor (fixed!), changing oil on our big tractor, and doing maintenance at our local community center. In some respects, I wonder what I’m doing with my life, but at the same time, my kids tell me that the skills they learned on all of these projects have helped them get jobs and taught them life skills.
You probably already figured it out, but the big box stores (and of course other rental shops) will rent big tools out for cheap. I rented a monster concrete drill when installing a two post lift in my garage and it was amazing. Cost like $60 for an afternoon instead of having to pop for a $500 tool that I had no use for after. And I say that as someone with multiple toolboxes full of needed-it-one-time tools 🙂
A tool library is great if you have one around. The one I’m a member of has a great collection, including weird one-time tools like a stair tread template that came in very handy. And talking to the regulars is always fun, learning something every time.
Just did this a week and a half ago, tile backsplash in my kitchen, and a tile tub saw rental from Ace hardware was $57, and made my life infinitely easier, and I was plenty happy to not have a tub saw I won’t need for at least a year lying around after the fact.
By the way, DT, there is a welder’s mantra that goes “A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain’t.” There is a carpenter’s corollary that goes “Putty and paint makes me the carpenter I ain’t..”
“Do your best and caulk the rest”
Measure twice, cut once . . .
then use shims…????
Then swear cause it still doesn’t fit. Repeat as necessary.
Oh, and I can’t stress this enough, USE THE SAME MEASURING TAPE FOR EVERYTHING!
I have over 20 years experience in equipment calibration and this had me wanting to unalive someone (starting with the head of the manufacturer’s QC section).
When you say ‘old,’ how old do you mean? My townhouse was built in the mid 80s and my current home was built in 1880.
Once I realized that NOTHING is actually level, nothing is really plumb and absolutely nothing ever meets at a real 90 degree angle, things became much easier.
If you don’t have a good cordless drill already, invest on one. I could get by with hf tools in the condo, but had to step up to a decent (Milwaukee, in my case) drill to handle jobs at the house without breaking out my very old and very cheap at the time corded black and decker that needs two pairs of pliers to operate the chuck.
From New England, it’s funny to hear about any welding involved in decks. I also assume you don’t have to worry about digging things down deeper than the frost line in socal.
Yeah, 1830’s house here. I had to use a grinder to get through the plaster walls to rewire my kitchen. It makes renovation hard, but there are apparently reasons the house has lasted almost 200 years.
We have horse hair plaster and wooden lath here, so at least we can get through without a grinder. Also, the ‘keys’ on the back side of the lath separate and require you to buy a case of special glue from some guy in VT to repair.
Ahh, I know that Vermont glue so well…
Even if your home started out level (unlikely), it won’t stay that way. Everything moves if you wait long enough.
This resonates a lot with me! We are under contract for a house now, and right off the bat we have to replace all the carpeting on the 2nd floor and basement (previous owner had a dog), renovating a bathroom that hasnt been used since at least 1995 (and has been dubbed the murder lair, thanks discord), redoing a workroom into a home gym, and fixing the roof. Also an electrician to install a couple 220v outlets for the 4xE. Plus quotes on replacing the roof and expanding the 2 car garage into a 2×2 setup. Arent houses grand?
And it only cost me a 69 Chevelle. Plus all the money in my bank account.
I recognize that Trex decking! It’s their saddle color, and it’s the same stuff I used on the deck at my previous (and rather old) house.
Fun fact: if you’re running regular deck screws through the Trex into wooden supports, you don’t need to countersink them. When the screw head gets below the surface of the Trex, the displaced material will form a sort of crown above the surface. You can then take a flat-faced soft hammer and tap the crowned material back into the hole above the screw head… and the screw hole will become practically invisible. 🙂
Also a 10″ or 12″ compound miter saw is both a blessing and a curse. It makes so many jobs easier, and I found myself making up and taking on new projects because I had the saw. 😀
My wife knows if I had a miter saw I would absolutely invent more projects involving it, which is exactly why I don’t have one. Yet.
We had to get a new bathtub installed into our house about a year and a half ago that shit cost so much, they needed to replace the green board as the tub was cracked and leaking into the basement, I need to get better at home repairs because yeah as you said home repairs vs vehicle repairs can be night and day difference in cost. Going to hate to see what it going to cost to get a 240v outlet installed in my garage.
I put a 240v outlet in a garage for my welder. It’s not really that hard. Just make sure the power is off!
Oh if my breaker was near my garage I would do it myself but I need at least a 70ft+ run (which I have not ran wiring in a house before)
Everything in my home pre-dates green board by decades.
If you give me a piece of metal and the right tools I can make just about anything.
The only thing I make with wood is sawdust and kindling.
Ha! I’m just the opposite. Give me some wood and the right tools, and I can make just about anything. The main things I make with metal are sparks and profanity.
20$ is an excellent deal for a bathroom reno!
Oh wait.
I hardly work on cars anymore (not that I was a major wrencher before but still) because of my house. I signed up for the Sisyphean task of renovating a “victorian” built in 1900 in which basically everything fights me. Its a labyrinth of asbestos, knob and tube, wallpaper and commercial ceiling tiles covering damaged plaster and lath. It’s sort of a nightmare.
It appears you have a relatively modern home to start with though, that’s smart.
Fourth generation master plumber here, in the northeast (old houses here are pre-1800s)(have worked on prob 6 houses from 1600s).
If you, or any readers, want advice feel free to reach out.
I love it and I got sewage in my veins.
My dad always said there are three rules to being a plumber.
1. Payday is on Friday.
2. Everything flows downhill.
3. Don’t chew your nails while working.
“hot’s on the left, shit flows downhill, and don’t chew your fingernails” was the version I was raised with
Any homeowner plumbing repair project will, inevitably, take three to the store to get the right parts . . .
Nah, I just buy a little bit more of what I need and keep the rest for later. Nothing drives me nuts more than having to make a return trip to the hardware store…and having a nice selection of random fittings & shit is always handy.
You probably already have the tools, BUT as someone who’s spent the last 15 years fixing up a dilapidated house, I’m going to throw in suggestions about essentials that I wouldn’t do without.
Cordless drill driver (Ryobi is fine)Cordless impact driver (DeWalt)Finish nailer (the battery-operated Ryobi nailer is the GOAT tool)Corded table saw (DeWalt), 12″ or biggerCorded circular saw (DeWalt; the cordless Ryobi you showed isn’t enough)Corded sliding miter saw (DeWalt), 12″ or biggerJigsaw (Ryobi or DeWalt)Coarse and finish saw bladesA rolling stand for the sawsA reciprocating saw / sawzall (Makita)An oscillating tool. Skip Hairball Fright, get a RyobiTwo folding workbenches. Why two? So you can saw 4×8 sheet goods in half and have each half supported, which saves them from damage and keeps your cut line straight (and keeps the blade from binding)A hammer. No need for a heavy framing hammer.Nippers to pull nailsSQUARES. At least a small and a large speed square. You want one with a lip.RULERS or straightedges. Get a 12″, 24″, and 48″Painter’s tape. Don’t get the tan crap. Don’t. Only get blue and purple 3m, or yellow and green Duck. They’re great for painting, but they’re particularly great as clamps, holders of things, or markers (put a little piece of blue tape on a wall or whatever to remind you it’s important)Tin snipsI’m going to get flamed by Team Red and Team Blue over DeWalt and Ryobi, but the fact is Ryobi tools today are an incredible value, last a long time, go on sale all the time, and are perfect for everyday work on a house. DeWalt saws are hard to beat.
Whatever you buy, stay within 1 or 2 brands so you don’t have to buy a bazillion different batteries you can’t swap between tools.
Always have one more battery than you have cordless tools.
Avoid HD and Lowe’s house brands for power tools (e.g. Ridgid). You also don’t need the fancy red measuring tools.
Have fun and ask others for help lifting things. Sure, you’re strapping enough to carry a 4×8 sheet of OSB, ply, or drywall by yourself, but Future David will regret it.
The oscillating saw is number one for me lol. That thing comes in handy for so many projects.
They are also good for trimming toenails.
And branches. I used mine to remove a dead tree in our front yard, and to trim everything else until I picked up an electric chainsaw.
I’ve used a Sawzall with a 12″ rough wood saw to cut through and down nearly 24″ diameter tree branches and tree trunks
A lot safer and a lot more control than your average general purpose chain saw
I don’t use my Sawzall often, but when I do, it a beast.
This is good advice. I just wrapped up renovating my fifth house, doing 98% of the work myself (countertops are too heavy for me to do alone). As with cars, having the right tools is key. I stuck with DeWalt as much as I could, and built up my collection over time, which allowed me to do full renovations in a relatively short amount of time while working full time at my engineering job. I find the house renovations as rewarding as working on cars.
Also: buy tools when you need them, and not before.
And wtf happened to the bullet formatting??
I’m an opportunist when it comes to buying tools. My neighbor was letting go of a table saw for $50 so I bit. Someone on Ebay was clearing out a bunch of new Tru-Value house branded drill presses for $60 so I bought it.
Little Giant ladder, Worx Pegasus work table, a bunch of quick clamps, a leaf blower, push broom, toilet auger . . off the top of my head. Also, Ryobi is a HD house brand manufactured by the same company as Ridgid (one step up) and Milwaukee (national brand).
Pretty good going so far, DT. Be glad you’re not me right now:
Pre-1900 farmhouse adjacent to mountains
Previous owner did ZERO maintenance for like 3 decades
Foundation for addition onto the main part of the house wasn’t done correctly
Lots of old and ‘improvised’ repairs
Let’s just say that I’m spending enough redoing this place I could have multiple nice cars. Fleets of SAABs. The foundation work alone is nuts.
Put it this way, I found a really nice car at the bottom of the lake and decided “yep, that’s my restoration project.” Could I do some repairs/remodeling myself? Maybe. Am I? HELL NO.
Ah, you appear to be in a similar boat as me. Or I guess I should say house.
Same. Sucks.
So I have to assume that you are now a homeowner. No denying it now, married, kid and a homeowner you are a damn adult now. Congratulations!
A lot of the skills do transfer and with time you’ll pick up the other skills as needed.
I do hope the contractor you hired did a better job than whoever did it the last time, because that bathroom wasn’t that old. Of course upkeep is important especially with that kind of set up for the shower. So yeah check and redo the caulk and grout as needed.
Wiring on home equipment is so much easier and better than automotive. For one thing it is usually way simpler, but the big thing is most appliances include the wiring diagram, either as a sticker or on a folded up piece of paper either taped inside or stashed in a place designed just for that. Of course that may not be present in the newest models since I haven’t had to repair anything from the last 10yr or so.
The other thing is that difference between the performance of the expensive home repair tools compared to big-box-tools is way bigger than the difference in expensive mechanics tools. Your head will explode if you ever use a Festool sander or track-saw. The sander’s vacuum system works and eliminates 95% of cleanup and the track saw makes better cuts than should be possible, I would suggest even if you can borrow some Festool tools for free don’t do it because your head will explode as it tries to reconcile the costs with your cheapness.
Also note that with home stuff do not take consensus opinions on how things should be done – get the manufacturer’s instructions and guidance – much of common knowledge with respect to modern home stuff is off. Also there is lots of regional differences – “hotmopping” is common in California, no-one, and I mean no-one in the Northeast does this – the better contractors may use the Schluter-system. As a side note, while most folks will let concrete cure for a few days it takes more than 3-weeks to get to full strength.
Finally, I know California is different and maybe there is some earthquake requirements – but why not use pressure-treated lumber for the deck support? Next time maybe use the grooved deckboards which allow use of “invisible” fasteners, which are better. Hopefully you left space between the boards and got composite decking with some kind of heat-mitigation – the more expensive Trex boards and many of the Moistureshield boards do this really well – like a 30+ F improvement compared to low-end deckboards.
Yeah I just about choked upon reading about hot-mopping, that went out of style in my area years ago and I can’t even imagine using steel for a deck like that in our area.
So, our deck was technically a “repair” in that it kept some of the old deck, which was steel. So we decided to keep it the same basic overall construction.
The single member we reused is the one welded to home (formerly railing provisions, as this is a deck extension), and because that member is 1.5″ inches below the edge of the house, we had to use a thickerTtrex board (2×6; very pricy). We could have put a spacer in there and then used the standard-thickness Trex, but I didn’t want to add expense to the welding job, plus I didn’t want to add a place for moisture to pool.
Was it ideal? Maybe not, but it seems like it should last a long time and be fairly rust resistant.
But yeah, I like the hidden fasteners.
Trex is the shit, good choice.
I believe Festool does reasonable rebuilds for their tools. The dust collection means they dominate interior remodeling contractors.
Caulk is the Bondo of home repairs.
Sometimes Bondo is the Bondo of home repairs. Wood Bondo is a thing!
Control the water coming in and going out of your house and you’re 75% of the way to figuring out household maintenance. Also (and this is very important for a compulsive DIYer like you and me) . . . KNOW what needs to be done by a pro i.e. I don’t mess with garage doors given their weight and the incredible tension they are under.
Enjoy the adventures of home ownership!
“I don’t mess with garage doors given their weight and the incredible tension they are under.”
TRUTH!!! I just had a broken spring replaced on Friday. The previous owner had cheaped out and only put in one spring on a wood, double door. The repair guy recommended two, and with all the other stuff that needed replacing, it came to just under $1100. Well worth it not to get my head taken off putting one of those springs in!
I did side spring ones myself, but yeah, don’t mess with tension springs over the door. Those things can kill you.
I’m not against the advice to steer clear of garage door springs, but I will say I’ve replaced a broken spring, replaced my complete opener, and performed another repair that required dealing with the spring tension and I didn’t die.
Treat it with a ton of respect and use the right tools and garage doors aren’t bad.
I’ve replaced 4 and done a few adjustments. Take your time, use the correct tools, be aware of planes of rotation (and where things will get thrown), and pay attention to what you’re doing.
Side springs are easy; they’re slack when the door is up. Just always remember that the cable runs through the spring coil for safety. Because when it breaks, the cable strung through it keeps it in place.
Transverse/overhead springs require a lot of respect.
That’s like the one thing I don’t fuck with on my house. Plumbing (including gas), HVAC repairs, electrical wiring, etc…I’ll do that all day long. Touch one of those springs? No thanks.
Can’t be any more dangerous than working with coil springs on a car…
Just make sure and wear your safety flip flops.
I had a boring vacation with little to do but read a stack of Fine Homebuilding magazines, it targets both high end house construction and do it yourself people. Yes, it’s make it to code, make it pretty, and MANAGE WATER MOVEMENT. Don’t just make it water tight, or you’ll get mold, you have to understand how water moves through a structure and control that.
Dude, that’s a (Ryobi branded) circular saw aka Skilsaw you are holding in your right hand. Miter saw and chop saw are used interchangeably where I’m from.
Miter saws are for wood/aluminum/plastic, chop saws are for steel…whatever your locale comes up with might work there, but for the rest of the internetted world (and tool stores), they’re different things.
Semi-translating, when drilling concrete I find you need to translate the bit a lot more, with metal the debris normally is carried away, wood and concrete it tends to pack in. You will absolutely need masonry bits and probably more than one.
Modern masonry bits are the bomb – way, way better than they were even 20 years ago. Definitely worth spending the money for good ones (and a good hammer-drill).
I too can expound the virtues of a quality hammer drill. I had to put in a ground rod for a 150,000-volt (yes, that is the correct number of zeroes) power supply last year. Renting a hammer drill from Home Depot instead of using the one that my boss brought from home took it from an “hours” job to a “minutes” job.
And if you’re going to use it a lot, get an SDS drill rather than a standard hammer drill.
Congratulations you are doing well. I suggest practicing on using utube or Google search for instructions. That bathroom looks good but I’d run the wainscoting the whole way around and paint the walls a robins egg blue. You pay the experts big money not just for the work but their expertise ask them. Also just look at pictures of others jobs and duplicate it with any personal choices.
When painting bathrooms go to the good paint store and get bathroom paint – it makes a world of difference and will prevent peeling.
“Bathroom paint”, also known as exterior paint.
Never buy discount paint. You need 3 coats to match what one of the good stuff will do.
When I was a new homeowner, nearly 30 years ago, I was advised to subscribe to the Family Handyman magazine. In it, I found all sorts of advice on how to correctly fix and build things around the house. I think that they still have a website.
Second the Family Handyman, one of the few resources that explains how to do stuff without trying to sell you something. Excellent magazine, well worth the subscription if it’s still in print. Chockful of good info.
Another vote for Family Handyman. It’s still available in print and digital. Check your local library in case they have back issues. A lot of the big box home improvement stores and some local hardware stores will also offer hands on how-to events that can be helpful as well.
These days, the Journal of Light Construction is my best resource for most information. Fine Homebuilding is way more aspirational
You 100% don’t need to put masking tape down for clean caulking lines. Just practice a bit in an inconspicuous part of the bathroom floor, like behind the toilet and under the vanity. You’ll get the feel for the flow rate, then wet the tip of your finger with a bit of water and do a quick swipe down the line. With even just a tiny bit of practice, there won’t be a bit of excess on your finger and the line will look flawless.
Source: I worked for a contractor in high school remodeling houses and got really good at stuff like that.
Hot damn! Wet your finger!
See, that silicone was sticking to me like glue!
Thank you for the tip!
Also, it takes less caulk than you think it does. It’s great that you’re willing to take some of these things on!
You are the best!
It does depend on the product whether wetting your finger will work well or not.
Water for regular caulk, rubbing alcohol for silicone.
wet it with a cup of water… I usually use a solo cup.
Don’t wear gloves
Better than a wet finger… Still need to wet it but reusable and cleanable: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-2-Pack-Caulk-Finishing-Tool/5013579149
Yeah, I use one of those too, but I my finger works best for tight spots.
Get your mind out of the gutter. 😉
For caulking above molding where it runs into a textured surface, a finger also tends to conform to that texture better. Definitely get the tool and use whatever works best for you.
Using rubbing alcohol instead of water on your finger does a much better job in my experience. Just have the little quart bottle on hand, dip a finger in and off you go.
If you found you used too much caulk when you’re starting out, flip your finger over so your fingernail carries away a lot of the excess on the second pass (after re-running-alcohol-ing the digit). The nail cuts through the excess and gives you a clean edge rather than just spreading the caulk wider. Then you can come back afterward and just scoop the extra up or clean it up with the rubbing alcohol while it’s still wet.