Peter Vieira
Wow, you're reading this? Thanks! If you're into RC cars and I seem vaguely familiar, it's because I spent over 25 years writing and editing RC car news, reviews, and tech articles in print and online. What else, what else ... I have a degree in Film Studies (useless), most of a degree in Graphic Design (useful), and I'm married to a wonderful woman with horrible taste in men. Thanks to her, we have a terrific daughter who just earned her Journalism degree and is way, waaay more together that I was at her age. Or right now.
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I’m a wuss. Slipping the jack handle on the end of wrenches for extra oomph FTW.
On to washing hands afterwards.
A simple bar of soap. Scratch it with your fingernails underwater (old gardeners trick).
You don’t need to buy special abrasive soap.
Dish soap and a handful of salt or sugar will do.
Myself, I think the midcentury volcano graphic on the Lava soap bar packaging is a good enough reason to buy it; I feel like Torch would back me up here.
I prefer “Pumice de Pompeii“ to simple “Lava Soap”. Their ancient volcano graphic isn’t as eye catching however.
I’m sure that if Torch ever has a dream about either, after a night of hard wrenching, he’ll let us know about it in a ‘Cold Start’ article.
If you use something like Working Hands or Udderly Smooth >before< wrenching, cleanup is a breeze. Really, any brand works, but those with lanolin are easy to work in quickly so your hands aren’t slick
Well, I don’t want Udderly Smooth, goddammit. I’m a Bag Balm man!
Watch your language, young feller, this is a public market.
so much bag balm growing up milking!
Better yet, before you start, scratch the surface of the bar to fill in the gap between nail and finger. Washes right out when you clean up.
The elastic 12 gauge shell holders made to fit on a gun sling or belt hold a surprising range of socket sizes. They even sell ones made to fit over the gun stalk that can be easily tailored to fit a forearm comfortably.
I’ve found myself using the ratcheting straps in my truck for more than just securing loads.
Wrap them around round parts that spin freely when you want to stop them from spinning freely, attach the hooks to the frame, ratchet tight viola. A hands free strap wrench that will fit most anything.
They also come in handy for holding large/heavy parts in place while you take them apart, without getting in the way like a jack or jack stands. Same for lifting large/heavy parts into place.
Don’t try to overcome problems by forcing the issue or just trying to will yourself though it. That is always when you snap a bolt or make an “easy” job into a 3 week ordeal. Take a break, think it over for another solution, and bust out the PB. Ugga dugga’ing it will only bring you pain and suffering.
That is excellent advice, just wish I followed it more.
Start with a bit of Google/YouTube research. I can’t count the number of times I’ve spent a few minutes doing research which lead to deciding that the job was a) doable, b) not expensive, and c) the location of the ONE hidden fastener. SO much saved time/money/frustration!
I’ve also found things I decided weren’t something I wanted to try/risk, but then I knew what to say or listen for when hiring a professional.
Magnetic trays are really helpful to have nearby. Just dropping the nuts and bolts onto them has helped decrease the amount of random metal bits on the floor, and I don’t kick them all over.
I get a real kick out of when I get to position them vertically or upside down on surfaces and stick the nuts/bolts in. I’m always a little disappointed when there’s no reason to not use them normally.
There are also magnetic wrist bands made for carpenters that are pretty nifty for this purpose.
I always think of that scene in Christmas Story when he kicks the hubcap over and the lugs go into the street when using my magnet bowl
Just picked up my parts at FCP Euro today, actually. That place is AWESOME. I never knew they were so close to me. Also, another plug is that they offer a full lifetime warranty on anything in the box. I have not seen that in over 20 years. Lifetime warranty on brake pads?? You know I’m gonna drive this car another 130,000 miles, right?
Rear end suspension and 4 corner brakes for my wife’s E61. And, a shifter bushing. Not sure I’ll tackle that this weekend though. That’s a full drop of everything underneath I’m not mentally ready for.
It’s simple, but I keep blue painters tape or masking tape around to tape fasteners onto sockets and screwdrivers when trying to get something into an odd space. Electrical tape works too if you need something a bit more sticky, but I find the painters tape is easier to yank off with the socket after you get the fastener in most of the way.
Also, get some flex head ratcheting wrenches. They can really help in tight spaces. https://www.harborfreight.com/flex-head-metric-ratcheting-combination-wrench-set-5-piece-60592.html
Also, I waited too long in life to buy a proper rolling toolbox and organize it so that everything has it’s place. Now I actually put things away and know where my tools are. I wish I had done it 20 years ago.
The painters tape is such a good mention! I found out only by accident after I was using it for its intended purpose and realized “this tape has exactly the right amount of short-term stick and it’s not going to rip anything else off with it.”
I went to night school to learn car repair, and they were absolute fanatics about us putting tools away exactly where they belonged as soon as we were done with them; we’d even be kept late if necessary until it was done. Definitely made an impression on me and I’ve been a nut about it myself ever since. I’ve yet to misplace a 10mm socket even (no, I’m not counting the ones lost and inaccessible in car parts…that’s different!).
I usually keep a tray or bucket next to me on a project. . .throw all the tools in the bucket when not in use. Then put everything away at the end of the job.
Don’t stop with putting the tools away. Do at least a cursory clean up to semi organize your project for your return.
Just used this trick to stick a nut to a box wrench and feed it inside a car seat to reattach the folding armrest through a blind hole.
Painters tape? Smart.
That is a similar yet more valid approach to the problem than keeping an egg of Silly Putty in my toolbox for this exact purpose.
There are three helpers (in addition to leverage) to remove a stuck bolt or nut: impact, heat, and penetrant. Use all of them that you can. An impact driver can work magic and is my go-to if there is room to use it, especially on Philips and JIS.
Use only 6-point sockets on stubborn fasteners. This will reduce the chances of rounding the head of the bolt.
I’ll add another to that list, to go along with penetrant: time. If you can, spray any bolts you think might cause you problems the night before, and let the magic juice soak in.
Yes, indeed. Patience and multiple applications can be very helpful.
Also you get to sound like Indiana Jones (in The Last Crusade) as you say “Only the penetrant man shall pass.” 🙂
I call it ‘giving notice of impending mayhem’. I’ll spray down everything I’ll need to remove, and, for the bigger ones like suspension bolts, put a 6-point impact socket on it and give the end of that a good, sharp hit from a brass hammer. I do this a day ahead of time—even when it means I have to pull the tire twice.
Spray ’em all, let God sort ’em out.
Doing brakes on my TDI right now and realized it’s time to buy a proper caliper wind back kit. Doing it with vice grips just takes too long. Time to part with $22 like I should have ages ago. I’m such an idiot most days.
A large C clamp works too, then you have it for other things. I’ve used the same one for 20 years.
I believe Thad is referring to a particular type of caliper in which the piston rotates rather than sliding back and forth. (I might have that wrong – haven’t worked on that type.) But yes, a c-clamp is super handy for working on traditional calipers.
You are correct kind sir. It’s the rear caliper pistons which need to be screwed back in, as they the ‘self-adjusting’ kind. In other words, they get turned, not squeezed back into place.
My Audi’s had them, and I recall that not being fun without said tool. I can imagine it being worth it to own one.
Up next, one of my Audi’s. Sounds like I’ll definitely need that tool.
I own a front-handbrake Saab 900, and the Saab caliper-retraction tool is an absolute godsend.
ugh thermostat. I’m currently fighting to install one on my 350 buick. Now 4 gaskets deep and two different sealers… hope it holds this time. Why buick made the thermostat housing vertical I’ll never know.
Ugh… been there (not on a buick v8) but others. Sometimes if you (or more likely, previous owners) were a little to liberal with a scraper, pneumatic wheel, etc… it can pretty easily mess up the aluminum enough so it won’t seal. I’ve tried multiple gaskets, sealents, and sometimes it works… other times (it sucks) but you just gotta replace the housing/mating surface (if possible).
Happened to me once, I’ll never forget it, and I feel your pain.
Well now that I google it a bit more, i hope you DON’T have to replace the mating surface (whole intake?). And It’s probably cast iron, not aluminum.
Yeah, the thermostat mounting surface is the cast iron intake manifold. Luckily i got it to seal using some really nasty shellac-based sealant after gluing the thermostat in place so it couldnt slip down. 4th times the charm!
If you can, sand down the housing on a flat surface to see if that helps get it more flat. Change how you hold the housing by 90 degrees every 10 circles. 220grit.
I had a similar issue on a Ford 302 and found the aftermarket thermostat housing I was using was warped right out of the box. Put the old crusty one back on and that solved the issue.
Right? I actually looked at a new thermostat housing and it was about 1/8” out of flat… No thanks …
I have those same puzzle-piece mats – love ’em!
Also, for urban mechanics like me who don’t have the space for a mechanic’s creeper, use a flattened large cardboard box. Gives you a little more slide-ability when you’re underneath and stores easily (like in the trunk of the car).
Motorcycle-specific and what I did on Memorial Day – when you’re cleaning/lubricating the chain, rig up some newspaper shielding around it to protect the rest of the bike from the flying gunk/grease spray. Wadding the paper up is soooo much easier than wiping the lower parts of bike afterward.
I put a big vinyl flooring remnant on the concrete floor of the shop. It enhances slide-ability and makes cleanup a lot easier.
For lubing the chain, I like to use a piece of cardboard with a 90-degree fold in it. The swingarm is on a race-type stand so it’s off the ground; one side of the cardboard is on the floor, and the other side sits between the chain and the wheel/tire. Start the engine, let the bike idle in first, and lube the chain. Easy peasy!
I like that 90-degree box trick, thanks! I can add it to my aforementioned cardboard box toolkit that usually lives in the trunk of my Focus.
You’re very welcome! Hope it helps.
I’ve always used a small paint brush for lubing the chain. You can really work it in and you’ll wind up using less lube.
Army issue or civilian equivalent sleeping mat of high density foam. Even rolls up and ties in a neat tube.
This is probably either one of those things everyone else knows, or everyone else knows you’re not supposed to do, but I do it all the time: if you’re using a combo wrench to break loose a bolt, you can “hook” the box end of a similar-sized wrench onto the open end of the wrench you’re using to get a little more leverage. It’s usually quicker than going to find a breaker bar and socket, and it works in tight spots a breaker bar can’t fit.
I have a selection of lengths of pipe that fit over socket handles, box wrenches, etc. I call them “The Persuaders”.
I use a 1″ squared steel bar that fits over my 1/2″ breaker bar. When I am done asking I whip out the nut buster 3000!
I use a deep socket that slides over the socket handle and put an extension on the deep socket to make my “cheater” breaker bar for small spaces. Sometimes, if I don’t have my creeper, I use a deflated basketball to put my head on as it wraps around the head and it doesn’t slide with the grip on the surface of the basketball.
That basketball trick is excellent!
What A. Barth said!
I’ve also heard that they can sometimes be used for dent mitigation/removal if in an area where you can access from behind & has sturdy structural backing…insert it deflated and then slowly inflate.
Funny you should mention that…
Go to homedepot.com and search for “air lifting tool”. This is a category of inflatable device (as one might expect): they use an air bulb like a blood pressure cuff, and can act as a variable shim to e.g. level a door.
Some can lift up to 300lb – might be a good way to push out a dent.
Gotta try this on my 2004 Silverado. Great truck with some simple dents that “should” pop out but haven’t yet!