It’s time for another episode of Carbage Time, where we here at The Autopian argue about our dumb takes. Because, like all humans, we have opinions about things, specifically car things, and we’re deluded enough to think that, bafflingly, you need to hear about these opinions! So if you’re pining to hear us opining, boy are you in luck. Last week, in our very first episode of the series, David and Matt discussed the largely disastrous Ferrari Luce. This time Matt and I are going to talk about something far more accessible than some poorly-designed and overpriced battery-powered Ferrari: drive modes.
Yes, drive modes. My suspicion is that it took you a moment to remember just what the hell those things were, because while it’s fairly likely your car has them – if you have a relatively modern car, made in, say, the last decade and a half or so, at least – I also suspect you probably haven’t used them in a while.
Sure, when you first got the car, I bet you tried them out: switching from Normal to Sport, let’s say, perhaps watching your instrument cluster dramatically change from a bluish color scheme to a more exciting, even angry red, and feeling your throttle response quicken a bit, the suspension stiffen a little, and so on. Maybe you kept it on sport for, oh, ten minutes before going back to Normal or even Eco, because what are you, made of money?
You should watch the debate, I think. It’ll be cathartic:
You can also just listen to it, too, if you’d prefer that. I don’t understand why you wouldn’t want to look at out beaming faces, but, you know, some people just don’t want to feel joy:
Oh, and to listen to more podcasts episode you can go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or you can use the RSS feed and point your favorite Podcast player at it.
Here’s What I’m Getting At
Now, I get that there are some drive modes that are genuinely useful: the OG sort of drive modes from vehicles with 4WD, for example, really do change the driving dynamics of a car, because going from 2WD High to 4WD Low of course changes things. Those aren’t the kind of “drive modes” I’m talking about.
I’m talking about the more recent sort of drive modes that are usually some variant of Normal, Sport, and Eco. Those are definitely not the same as activating a whole other drive axle. Besides, on all my old cars that don’t even have automatic chokes, let alone drive modes, you still could have all of the effects of drive modes by, you know, changing how you drive.
You stomp on the gas and crank that wheel hard, boom, you’re in “sport” mode. You coast down hills and treat the gas pedal like you’re using your foot to pet a cat whose pupils are the size of dinner plates, then you’re in eco mode.
A modern car, with all its electronics and sensors, could easily determine you’re driving and adjust things accordingly, no modality needed. That’d be fine! But you wouldn’t have that visceral moment of changing the drive modes, which I think is most of what drive modes are: a bit of theater.
Theater is, of course, just fine in a car. Cars are not rational, and will never be, at least I hope they’ll never be. But even with that in mind, I still think most of these drive modes are silly things that, again, nobody really uses, except perhaps the obvious, driving-condition related ones, like snow mode or tow mode or something clear like that.
But the others? I dare you to get in your car and, without looking, tell me the difference between “normal” and “eco” modes. And what is “Normal” mode, anyway? It feels like the chassis dynamic engineers couldn’t really decide how to tune the car and drivetrain, and so to get around having to make a hard set of compromises, pushed the problem to the owner, who could pick a an ever so slightly more efficient behavior or a slightly more sporty one or whatever. No one really cares.
Look, maybe I’m wrong here! Maybe I’m being a dismissive dickhead and you love love love your drive modes, switching between them like you were shifting gears! If so, tell me in the comments, make your case, and, what the hell, remind me I’m a dipshit! Can’t hurt!
Sport mode makes exhaust loud.
It’s a running joke in my household! And she’s in on it, this isn’t anti-wife! The wife puts the Tucson in “Sport Mode” when she’s stuck behind someone waiting to pass. The gauges turn red, and another slow car goes down!
One of my cars is a Seat Ateca DSG diesel with the normal three drive modes. Sport pre-emptively drops a gear and makes overtaking easier, so fine. As far as I can tell though, the only difference between Eco and Drive is that Eco disconnects the gearbox downhill and allows the car to coast. However, don’t diesel engines use no fuel when going downhill in gear while coasting requires some to keep the idling engine going? So Eco actually uses more fuel than Drive? The car stops reporting mpg when coasting so I think it knows that too.
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Have 07 WRX from before Subaru introduced drive modes and I like it much better than the later cars with Si-Drive.
I’m in Track Mode/Sport, or Sport+ in my M2 all the time. Otherwise, what’s the point? Might as well buy a Prius. Traction control off. If the car can’t kill you, then who’s really in control?
That’s part of the rational I used to justify buying my 98 Z3 M Roadster. No traction control & old, rock-hard performance tires forced me to finally learn to drive a rwd properly if I didn’t want to fling my screaming self backwards off a mountainside.
>I acquired fun but improper driving habits in my low-powered fwd shitboxes in which flooring it just before the apex didn’t result in entering a hedge ass-first 🙂
I have a suspicion that “snow” mode makes drivers a little too overconfident where they think they can dial it up and drive and brake like they are on dry pavement.
Anecdotally, my father did note that his ‘14 Impreza when in snow mode will hold a lower gear when off-throttle downhill
Surprised no one has mentioned Porsche drive modes. They have Normal and Sport, and if you have Sport Chrono, Individual and Sport+ modes. The Sport mode holds gears so RPM stays above about 1900 RPM, modifies throttle response to be more aggressive, puts exhaust in sport mode, turns off Start/Stop and speeds up PDK shifts. The Sport+ mode is Sport mode but holds gears so RPMs stay above about 3000, upshifts after longer pauses, speeds up PDK shifts even more while stiffening transmission and engine mounts, activates launch control and is very aggressive. They make a huge difference in driving and I use different modes almost every drive, though sport is my regular mode.
I click mine into Individual for every drive: Sport+ throttle, soft suspension, wing stowed at low speed.
On pure ICE it doesn’t make much of a difference, not sure about electric, but on hybrids it can change the behavior significantly and in a way you can’t replicate otherwise.
Having them on a normal car is usually silly. Having them on a performance oriented car, where the modes are eco, comfort, race, sport, drift, etc makes sense. CR-V doesn’t need it. Golf R does.
Matt is exactly right – I use custom mode for daily driving, where I tighten up steering , throttle response and shift patterns, but put the suspension between comfortably soft and racing hard so it can handle potholes without removing fillings.
Agreed, Nürburgring mode is fantastic in the R.
The sport mode on my CX-50 Turbo works…in that it just keeps you a gear lower than the normal mode (so you are always in boost). The only issue is it will not upshift once you have reached a steady speed so it feels pretty half-baked in that regard. However, it works well if I know I am doing something where I want the power, and it also works well for engine braking on steep hills.
I’m solidly pro drive mode as long as the change in character is palpable.. and for a lot of cars it’s really not. Generally speaking, BMW and Mercedes tend to do a pretty good job nailing a great normal mode and injecting a bit of theater into the sport modes.
My Integra has modes for sport, normal, and comfort… but crucially, an “individual” mode. So I can put the throttle response from sport, and the soft(er) ride from comfort together. I’m not driving on a track, I want as cushy a ride as I can get, but I also want to wring out that 6 speed every chance I get. So yeah, once I figured out what things I wanted in the individual mode, I’ve never used any of the other 3 modes. So I don’t think modes are useful, but I think customization is.
I dunno about eco and others but I have sport mode and I like it. It doesn’t just alter throttle response, it also messes with the slushbox to keep lower gears. There are roads where you want to be ready to overtake quickly and effortlessly as soon as there’s a gap in the oncoming traffic, with just a moderate press of a pedal and within the gear you’re currently in. In normal mode I’d have to floor it, wait for the gearbox to drop 2 gears, then keep gunning it as I just lost couple of seconds on gear shift and I have to catch up to make it before meeting the oncoming semi. And then eventually I’d still have to make a stop because the kids in the backseat would complain I’m driving too jerky and their barf containers are full. In other situations like city driving or 4+ lane highways, normal mode is just ok as it’s easier on gas.
That said, I also had sport mode on a car with a manual where it also increased throttle responsiveness and stiffened the suspension, I just used it all the time.
I’m actually really happy with the normal/sport mode options on my 2020 Crosstrek. Seems to just adjust the transmission shift points (not sure if maybe it’s also adjusting throttle response?)
This is the first automatic (technically CVT) car I’ve owned, and the mode choice helps a lot on making up for that lost control I would’ve had when driving stick – other non-stick cars drove me crazy by never shifting the way I wanted them to – sometimes too aggressive and other times not aggressive enough, but seemingly never the right thing at the right time.
Obviously this is never going to be the most thrilling car to drive, but the mode choices on this CVT do a surprisingly good job of matching how I would shift for boring/economical driving vs. more sporty/aggressive driving.
In your 2020, do they still have the transmission controller programmed to perform ‘shifts’? I understand the why, but it infuriates me as it negates the whole premise of a CVT.
My father’s first non-manual car was a 2014 Impreza and those fake shifts were all I could focus on when driving it. >obviously, that’s a me problem, but I would love to see a real-world comparison of efficiency between programmed shifts and ‘seamless mode’
I like sport mode. It’s nice to have the option for a more responsive throttle when I want or need it without encouraging lead foot activity all the time. Without it I feel certain we’d only get mid mode and thus I’d have a less engaging to drive car.
My Mazda 6 sport mode switch looks like it was bought out of a J.C. Whitney catalog from 1979.
I’m So Happy!, I’m Gonna share! The ridiculous over application of technology into our daily drivers is why I soured on anything made after 2017, but many seriously infuriating complications started much earlier. My 2010 W204 MB was made in Germany, and I foolishly believed the common problems of that generation wouldn’t bite me. PSA; If you own a 2006-2015 MB, REMOVE THE ESL BEFORE IT FAILS, It Will. They used a cheap-ass motor in –
C-Class (W204): Affected Years 2008–2014
E-Class (W212): Affected Years 2010–2015
GLK-Class (X204): Affected Years 2010–2015
CLS-Class (C218): Affected Years 2012–2015
Sprinter / Vito: Affected Years 2007–2014
S-Class (W221) & ML/GL-Class (W166/X166): Moderately affected, generally 2010–2015 models [1, 2, 3]
I had several-turn key-nothing-try again-starts right up, and had looked into common failures 3 years ago before I bought it, and knew ESL failure can suck royally, Especially if it fails in the locked position. I lucked out, in that mine failed unlocked (steering wheel free), but still will leave you stranded (no response from dash or starter) if you didn’t know that you can hack the security lockout by going into the fuse box under hood. With the key in the running position-pull the 7.5 fuse that is in the -Center row- closest to the windshield in LH drive models, front in RH, wait 5 sec. -put back – pull the large green relay- and either carefully remove the cover(mine was a bugger, took care with a small flathead to get off, and shaved tabs with a pocket knife before replacing) put back without cover, pinch to run started, or if you have a jumper, even paperclip, connect farthest fore-aft. You won’t get shocked or burned, that’s what relays are for-low load- to switch high load. Once started- replace cover or relay- and all is normal, unless your steering is locked. Once home, there are some great MERCEDES EASY ESL REMOVAL C CLASS w204 – OPEN POSITION – STEP BY STEP GUIDE – YouTube
That will show how to remove it. He made it look easier than it is, you are in a very awkward position to access, and I’m not as nimble, and you can’t even get eyes on the 13mm that the camera can see. It is much closer to the universal joint than I had thought. Once the ESL is out, you can order an emulator, but will have to send it to one of the many that offer. Around $250 along with the key to code it to. Dealers get between $2000-$3000 for this job! My super cheap ass left it plugged in, and dangling, and it’s still working. When it fully fails, I’m going to try a Dremel window to turn by hand.
If you wait till it fails, I hope you get the unlocked I did, if so, DO NOT remove the key till you have disconnected the negative from the battery, so it can’t lock!
Oh, and it has a sport mode that I have used only a couple of times. It holds the gears longer, higher revs, to give increased acceleration, but rarely needed. It does allow the V6 to make some impressive sounds, and smartly out accelerates most.
What little enthusiasm for owning a Mercedes that I had has now evaporated.
Thank you for that.
Over-engineered modern cars are a pain in the backside.
You’re welcome. Coming up on 4 years of ownership, all regular maintenance has been better than most, and parts were reasonable. It has served me well, and I am confident it will continue to, even after that. Achilles heels inflict EVERY manufacturer. Germans excel at ensuring it.
I appreciate when people write a lengthy rant, but give us a heads up early that it won’t be meaningful to most of us: “My 2010 W204 MB…”
If only everyone would be so kind as to do that.
“it won’t be meaningful to most of us:” ?!
10-16 yo cars in Great condition that are in the market for less than half of the cheapest new car ? I think that interest a lot of this readership, and wanted to alert them of a solvable but systemic problem.
Who wouldn’t want English as a Second Language?
The first thing I do after starting my 2025 V8 F150 is switch it to Eco mode. I don’t need to jump off the line from every red light. They did an excellent job mapping the Eco mode – save for a slow downshift exiting corners.
Just the other day I had my Volt in Sport mode for the first and only time in 3+ years of ownership. After about two miles I thought “well that’s silly”.
Thus endeth my experience.
My father’s 27 Bolt has a sport mode that definitely tightens up the power steering, which I like. I need to play around with the custom settings as the aggressive throttle tip-in isn’t as much to my liking. But the custom mode lets you mix and match, so I might do Normal for the go-pedal and Sport for the steering. Not sure what other things can be adjusted individually as I’ve only driven it a few times.
In “Comfort”, the transmission in my MB C63S is in a mad dash to top gear. As fast as it can get there, that’s what it wants. To be loafing along at 1300rpm for MPG purposes. It’s okay for highway trips but “Sport” will make it drive more like what I would think of as normal. Then S+ and Race are over the top for around town. The damper changes are noticeable as well. But that’s a much more active mode changing thing than a normal car.
With 700Nm at 1,750rpm, I an sure loafing around at 1,300rpm is fine 😉
I think it depends on the car. The Sport mode on my Ford Territory SUV? It adjusts the throttle response a bit and how it holds the gears. I never use it (though I have read it’s recommended you use it when towing to reduce strain on the transmission).
The Sport mode on my Crown Athlete sedan also firms up the adaptive dampers, which noticeably sharpens the ride and handling. I find it different enough that, on the rare occasion I find myself with time to take it on a twisty backroad, I’ll flick in Sport mode, change the transmission to manual shift, and have a blast.
Funnily enough at the traffic light grand prix I find the Crown’s Normal mode tends to get a better launch, as Sport mode makes the throttle response too aggressive and lights up the tyres.
Basic car driver here. Both cars have such options.
On mine, eco reduces the aircon output and softens the throttle off-idle. It’s very noticeable and I leave it in Eco as it actually makes my on-off throttle smoother between shifting gears (6MT). Bonus: I usually get better mileage in eco.
So, yeah, I really notice. But I do have a preference why it stays in one over the other.
In our EV ‘eco’ decouples the front motor entirely to return better range. So it at least has a physical reason
My 27 Bolt EV has a sport and normal drive mode. In ‘sport’ the steering feels a bit less leaden. These modes are separate from the 1 pedal driving modes, which have 2 levels, though I’ve yet to try level 2. Even level 1 is annoying when trying to maneuver at low speeds/parking.
Handling is not that important on this vehicle, as it is strictly an appliance. It is not a bad appliance for the price I paid, but the charging software needs some tweaks. I want them to allow me to set start and stop times for charging to accommodate my time-of-use electrical rates. Now, they only allow for stopping time!? For the first time in my life, I was able to communicate with some humans at a car manufacturer and give them my input, for what it is worth. I’m hoping they will do that with an OTA update.
Ditto – we just plugged in my dad’s 27 Bolt, and while I get the idea of having it start so you have a full charge when you want it ready, I also have a TOU rate plan and really didn’t want it starting before 9pm.
FWIW, I find the handling pretty good for a 3700 lb car. With it all mounted very low I can zing around sweepers like a freeway on ramp and it just sticks. It’s not my car so I don’t really push it, but it seems agile enough too.
That’s weird. We had 2017 and 2020 Bolts, and I’m pretty sure that they allowed setting a full charging schedule including starting times.
It would not be the first time software has been modified to make it worse.